nvexplorer

I haven't read through all of the links, but all have an oil line going to them. Make sure you can either reroute and adapt the oil line if it isn't a VW. Also, some use engine coolant in addition to engine oil to cool the turbo. That would also have to be addressed. Inlet and outlet diameters can be different, Wastegate placement and control may be different, and as you already said, how they mount to the engine and exhaust might be a fun challenge. Good luck!

If the alt gives you problems wire up a light or a resistor to that dummy light wire. Some models need them in order to run. Mainly older GM's but its a thought.

My girlfriend's parents just bought her a Ford Escort and I'd like to know what I'm going to be dealing with. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Let me know if there's anything I can do for you! I've got a wrecked 93 Loyale that I can snag parts off of, or whatever I can come up with. Thanks!!! 3FARP15J5RR146486

You just have to be quick... I miss my subies. Its been a little over a year since my orange GL died. I'm still working on them though. Almost finished replacing the clutch and components on a friend's 90 legacy.

could also be a fusible link. I fried one randomly years ago and had to replace it. IIRC they are on the drivers side fender under the hood.

I have never had a moisture problem with my headlights after going to 9007's, even after playing in deep mud puddles. You must take the tabs out of the bulb housing instead of cutting new ones so as not to damage the bulb or its O-ring, and as long as you haven't taken too much of the housing off or made it out of round, the locking ring will provide adequate pressure to seal the headlamp. As far as the beam goes, it starts out wider than the 9004's but definitely does raise up when switching from low to high. If you cut your own locating tab slots but didn't index them to the correct tab that does line up you will have lighting problems as the filaments will not be positioned as they were intended to be. The only differences between the 9104's you have and the 9007's are two of the locating tabs are different, the high beam and ground terminals are swapped, and any difference in wattage that you can also find between two brands and styles of any headlamp. Adding more lights is the fast easy and effective way to get better lighting.

I upgraded my 9004 bulbs to 90007 silverstar bulbs. Went from 55w/65w to 60w/70w. To do the conversion you will need to swap the ground and high beam wires and grind or file off two of the locating tabs inside the headlight housing. They gave a wider and brighter beam than any 9004's that I found. Did the same conversion to my 92 toyota 4runner and don't regret it. I still like to have additional lighting for offroad and bad weather driving though. Can't have too may lights! This might at least give you more options as far as replacement lights go.

did you change out the pads and is the rotor still in spec? with pads and rotors you must change them out in sets. Not just one side. you can get away with only one caliper though. Does your e-brake work? its run off of the front brakes, so if it isn't adjusting then that could be your problem. Also, you might still have some air trapped in the system. How much fluid did you lose when you swapped the calipers? Single man job or did you have a helper?

I miss mine too. I've still got my Loyale, but there's enough front end damage that its just a parts car now I do enjoy the clearance and power of my 92 4runner though. At least my orange subie went out in style...great weekend driving around the Santa Rosa mountains lookin for deer followed by a colossal crash. Maybe I'll get the pics up sometime.

I swapped the washer reservoir from my wrecked 92 to my 87 in October and could see no way to get to the washer pump without pulling the wheel and plastic fender cover. It is easy to get to from there though. I've got a spare pump sitting around if your problem isn't a frozen pump.

First was in my 93 Loyale. Broke the water pump shaft going up Spooner summit. My worst was rolling my 87 GL wagon one night coming home from hunting. Rolled from the west bound lane to the east bound on I 80 just west of Winnemucca. RIP my orange beast.

I always thought it held left front and right rear as they're on the same circuit. Wish I could test it, but i have no more working roos to mess with. When both of mine did run, the HH worked great.

My 87 had the same problems. The dipstick was popped up after running for any length of time and so on and so fourth, and I checked for excessive blowby and there was none. What I figure was happening is the PCV was blocked. The vavle itself was in there pretty tight but that was easy enough to get out. It worked just like it should and when i reinstalled it I tightened it down as far as it'd go and then backed it off. I think what happens is the valve actually digs into the other side of the block and the positive crank pressure has to go somewhere so it goes through the dipstick tube. After backing it off I never had a problem with the dipstick. coming out. In short, don't overtighten your PCV valves! Doing so will actually block the PCV system and then things just don't work right.

Can't exactly post a pic of what I usually take right now, but here's a list: Tire chains (2 sets unless you use studs) chain tighteners blanket tarp or old bed sheet (to lay down on the ground incase you don't want to get dirty) screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches, sockets, ratchet small to medium sand bag compact/foldable shovel sweat pants and shirt (or some other warm clothes in case you get wet) leather gloves waterproof gloves Cable Come-a-long (to pull you out if you need it) Tow strap/tow chain ice scraper

If its in the D/R neutral position you should be able to pull up or push down on the 4wd stick to engage 4wd and that would tell you if you are inbetween 4hi and 4low. Your car should also move when in 4wd. Hopefully thats all it is and the linkage just needs to be adjusted or pushed all the way down. Good luck!

You can't really mess up the timing belts and ruin the engine as they are non-interference. First time I did the belts I had one of the cam pulleys 180* out and it just didn't start. Redid them and it started right up. Water pump was the first thing I ever did on my first EA82. That was an experience as I was stuck near the top of Spooner Summit on the side of the road trying to do it without a clue as to what I was doing. Pretty straight forward. Remove the hoses, belts, and bolts. Clean the mating surfaces and put in a new gasket and bolt it all back up. Others can give more detail if you need it. Good luck with whatever you do.

I had the crankshaft pulley fall off just randomly one day with no warning. Luckily a few miles away were my inlaws, so they helped me out. Now I always carry a socket to fit the bolt and a breaker bar. Probably won't need it anyway since last time I put it on I used blue locktite. Never hurts to be prepared. As for the grinding sound, What does it sound like...is it related to the car rolling under its own power or only when you hit the gas? Only when you decelerate with the engine connected, with a manual tranny? Is it constant or does it pulse? Is it high pitched or lower pitched. If its high pitched and kinda sounds like scraping it could be the wear indicators on your rotors.

So all the other noises that I was complaining about are gone. Turns out that the castle nut was loose on the drivers side. The clunking when driving and the ability to get my car on a lift to check it out helped me find that, so I tightened it and all noises were gone for a few days. Now there's a creaking/scratching sound that is more pronounced at lower speeds. I cranked down the castle nut again and they subsided for about a day and now I still hear it every now and then. It sounds like a piece of stiff metal rubbing on something, but only happens for about 20 degrees of rotation of the wheel and I couldn't find anything rubbing. Any thoughts?

You can also convert that LSD to 3.9 I'm going to undertake that task as soon as I get the front running gear on my parts car so i can move it and snag the diff off of the rear.

Both my Loyale and GL wagons are lefty loosey for both the drain and filler plugs as they should be. Would be very annoying if it were otherwise. I usually have to get a long breaker bar when I'm first taking them out after years of neglect. Once it starts turning it should be fine. Beware though, that oil is nasty stuff. Smells bad too

Thanks for the replies. Haven't found it yet, and the clicking is completely gone now. At the risk of sounding completely stupid...what does FTW mean anyway?

A few weeks ago I noticed a clicking coming from the front passenger side of my 87 wagon while decelerating on a right hand turning downhill. I checked the brakes and lug nuts and the castle nut, but didn't change the noise. It seems to have gone away now. There's a new noise that I'm concerned about though. Once again coming from the front passenger side, but this time its a chirping sound that happens when decelerating on a flat or declined surface going straight. When I tap the brakes the noise goes away until i let off the brakes, same with the hand brake, and the noise also stops when I put in the clutch pedal and returns when I let my foot off the pedal in gear. Next chance I get I will check the brakes again to see if the spring clip has come loose or anthing else that is dependant on rotation. Any other ideas? Thanks

could be that the springs were taken off. Does your rear sag a lot? That'd probably be why if it does.

My 87 GL had the smoke screen and all it took to fix it was 2 T connectors, a larger diameter hose to match the larger one on the intake boot, which it will connect to, and a plug for the small hose that you need to get rid of. A new PCV valve never hurts, nor does cleaning out the other hoses to make sure all the oil is out. These parts can be found on any newer ea82 so it may be worth going to the junkyard or PNP to get the parts. Below are images of the intake boots to show you what I'm talking about.

To keep the flywheel from moving I put an allen wrench in one of the holes on the circumference of the flywheel (as big as you can get in the hole short end first) and brace it against the bellhousing. Hasn't failed me yet!