nvexplorer

I had similar problems with my 93 Loyale. What it came down to was replacing the heater core. I tried running hot water through the pipes once I had the old core out and it would barely get warm after a few minutes, but the used one I picked up would heat up very quickly. What happened is the smaller tubes that actually touch the fins are loaded with minerals and other junk but there is plenty of flow through the main pipes.

The reason for the 4wd not being happy when used on dry pavement is the system that Subaru uses. When 4wd is engages the same amount of power goes to the front and rear wheels. If you go around a corner in four wheel drive the rear diff will make up the turning difference for the rear wheels and the front will take care of the front likewise, but there is no center differential to make up the difference in distance traveled between the front and rear differentials on a part time 4wd system. A full time 4wd or awd system does have a center diff to allow the front and rear to travel different distances. Same goes for having different size tires on front and rear. One travels one distance and one travels a different difference putting mucho strain on the drivetrain. 4WD + dry pavement is similar to + =

Might want to do the water pump as well as you'll have access to all the bolts with the timing belt covers removed. Some people even leave the covers off, but recently I've read about people going through snow drifts and the timing belts jumping teeth from people without the covers. Doesn't hurt the engine, but it won't run if the timing is off either.

Replacing the clutch isn't actually too hard. Figure out whether you want to drop/push the tranny out of the way or to pull/push the engine out of the way first. First time I did a clutch on a subie I pulled the motor. Once you can see what needs to be done it is fairly straight forward. Pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel with the clutch disk between the PP and FW. If you decide to get the fw resurfaced it is also just bolted on. Get a clutch kit with the throw out and pilot bearings, pressure plate, and clutch disk, and hopefully the alignment tool. If you don't get the alignment tool you can make one or eyeball it or borrow one from someone else. It all depends on which way you want to go about it. If you pull the motor you might as well do the rear main seal and any other possibly leaky seals since you'll have lots more room to work on it. Use the search feature. Lots of posts on replacing the clutch, including some "how to" directions I do believe.

Loyales are part time single range four wheel drive. Even though its only got 4hi my Loyale has taken me up hills where I'm actually climbing over rocks (oops! dented floor boards) or through dust pits where the dust goes all the way up to and a little past the bottom of the doors. Of course I was in first and had the gas almost to the floor but it made it. Dual range would be nice if you can find it.

We've got 4 wheel ABS on our work trucks, 2 GMC Sierras and a F150. I get to drive through mud and snow plenty and the ABS definitly doesn't aid in stopping fast. If you manually pump the brakes it usually will disengage the ABS and lock up the tires. My dad's 2500 Suburban also has ABS and its hell to get it to stop fast on ice with the ABS even when going slow already. Once again, manually pumping the brakes disables the ABS and most of the time it will stop faster, but steering is gone.

Last night one of my low beams stopped working so I was looking to get some replacements and noticed that the 9004's and 9007's have the same connector. I did a little searching and found this site, which gives an explanation on how to do the conversion. Any thoughts or comments? Seems pretty easy and gives better output. Are there better cheap upgrades that can be done?

I replaced the plugs and wires probably a year ago. Don't know what brands I used for what, but I will test the wires to make sure that there isn't excess resistance when I do the disty. I should probably take a look at the plugs anyway. Yay for insurance.

Finally got an accident resolved and am going to have about $800 that I want to spend on my Loyale, and I've never changed the cap and rotor for the disty. It still runs great and I wanted to know if people see a difference with a new cap and rotor. Would it respond faster, better mileage, etc or is it just a good preventative maint thing to do? In addition to that I'm gonna look into a new windshield and possibly tires and then see what I have left, oh and some spray paint and sand paper to take care of the damage the other guy caused to my Loyale. Thanks.

Have you gotten any trouble codes from the ECU? The only time my 93 Loyale gives me trouble where I have to pump the gas to keep it going is when it is really cold outside. Apparently my IAC doesn't like the cold since that is the code I get, but the code clears and it runs fine after everything has warmed up. Could be one of your problems.

Jacking up the front of the transmission helps sometimes. Gives a different angle to work with.

So how about an update, carfreak85? Have you removed the pencil yet and if so how? Three pages of posts and you've only made one.

They sell grabbing tools. Has three or four prongs and is usually spring loaded. I'd imagine that it'd work pretty well, otherwise a magnet if the pencil still has the metal ring with the eraser. One that you can drop down there attached to a string.

Even if the shop were working on a related part they don't always own up to it. My dad had the tranny rebuilt (they also "upgraded" the wiring) on his 93 suburban and when we got it back the 4wd didn't work. Took it back and they said that it wasn't because of anything that they did. Not to mention that the shifter was in 4 hi when we got it back suggesting that they at least tried to drive it in 4 and probably forgot to put it back because it acted like it was in 2. It is a $60-80 part from any store but they found one for $180 and installed it free of charge.

I do believe that he is referring to the EGR solenoid and it quite possible that the solenoid is a source of codes to make the check engine light come on. Very hard to see the solenoid....put a flashlight right on it when you take the pic so we'll be able to see it and be able to tell you for sure.

Superbowl stuff here too. Have a good birthday though.

I also like and somewhat know Dog Valley. That's actually the one area that I had to chain up to get out...slid off the road near one of the campsites, lookout i think. Currently I'm trying to get things scheduled for Sunday rescheduled for Saturday, but if I know where you plan to go and you leave before I can get there I might be able to catch up. Are you guys thinking morning, afternoon, or evening?

After rereading the first post the 4wd button shouldn't make a difference as the solenoid wires aren't connected to anything. Actually I wonder if that could be the reason that the 4wd light doesn't come on, or perhaps part of the reason.

I can probably get away from things long enough to do some wheeling. Let me know when and where to meet and I'll do what I can to be there.

The EA82 did come with a 5mt Dual range and then later switched to a 5mt single range. I think the switch happened around the time that other newer models were being produced, maybe around the 90's. Not entirely sure. From what I've seen almost all 4wd GL's have the dual range.

The push buttons are toggle type. With the button flush (or close to it) with the rest of the shifter nob it is supposed to be disengaged. With the button depressed it is supposed to be engaged, and the button should stay depressed until you press it again.

VSS stands for Vehicle Speed Sensor I do believe and its probably located on or near the transmission. I'm sure if you provide the year and model of the car that someone with more info will help you out.

You should be able to push the pedal down at least a little ways before the hydraulic cylinders kick in to move the release fork. If you have no freeplay it could be that your clutch isn't having the full amount of force applied to it when you let off of the pedal. You should be able to tell when the master cylinder starts to pressurize the system when you push in the clutch pedal because there is more resistance.

Clutch went out on my Loyale. Got to the point that just by hitting the gas too hard the clutch would slip. It wasn't too bad to replace. I could actually bend the old disk with my fingers it was so thin. New disk has been working fine. Definitly go for the kit if you are doing it yourself and make sure it comes with the pilot and throwout bearings.

I got stuck twice a couple winters ago with brand new michelin Xice tires. First time was because a stupid car wouldn't pull to the shoveled side of an alley, so I started to crunch through the refrozen snow until it stopped moving...shovel took care of that. Second time was due to an icy corner on a snowy mountain road that I drive sometimes. Wasn't even driving that fast but put me up against the side of a hill. Chained up both drivers side tires to get me out. I need to get some snow pics someday.