nvexplorer

There could have been a little too much water in their tanks, so the filters may be clogged. Wouldn't hurt to do them anyway. Carbed cars have 2 right?

I also had this thunking and replaced the ball joints and it went away for a while. I also replaced the struts all the way around at that time. The passenger ball joint looked like it was about to come appart. Lots of 3D movement. The drivers side was better but still had enough 3D movement to make me want to change it. I'll see if I can get a pic or video of them later tonight. Recently it started to come back with the same symptoms as yours, so if I find the culprit I'll let you know.

I was looking into the flow meters and saw that they were expensive, so thats why its just a thought... I always calculate my mpg based on amount put in vs. miles on the trip meter, but I think it'd be interesting to see what is happening while I'm driving, and possibly to tune my driving habits for maximum fuel efficiency. Just by changing how I drive I went from 25-26 mpg to 28. I was also trying to take it easy on my practically bald winter tires. Great for grip on dry non sandy roads, but I'd hate to hit a rock or tear a hole in one while taking off. No worries about them anymore though, they came off a couple weekends ago. Just thought I'd throw that idea out there to see who else might have had a similar idea or theory on something that might work.

I had the Charge and brake lights come on when my crank pulley decided to come off the crank shaft. Perhaps your alternator belt was loose, or the connector wasn't making a good connection and removing and reinstalling it scraped stuff off. Checking connections would probably be a good place to start since those had to be messed with to take the alt out.

I've always wanted to install a flow meter somewhere on the fuel system on my 93 Loyale to find out exactly how much fuel I'm using at any given time. Anybody do anything similar and know a cheap and easy way to do it? I've thought of monitoring the tps or even the fuel pressure regulator, but I don't think that I'd be able to actually monitor how much fuel is going through the injector. I'd only get an idea of how much should be going through after some calculations. Just an idea I've had brewing for a while. Thanks.

I added speakers to the rear doors on my 93 loyale and the wiring was already there. I'm sure that changing the ground would help, but I didn't bother. I think the wires ended with a white plastic connector and were tucked under a thin piece of foam near the speaker cones already through the vapor barrier. I can't remember the color of the wires, but I can check that out later today.

That is an awesome write up! I now know more about the axels on my subie than I did even after replacing one. This should be archived or added to the USRM!

I can play along. 1993 Loyale. The first car I've ever bought. Got it from my uncle for $500 and has been running great since! 178000 on the clock, want to do a dual range swap and rear disks, but keep it looking as close to stock as possible. My 83 GL hatchback. Actually I tried to get rid of it as I don't have time or money to work on it, and my brother doesn't want to fix it up for his first car for some reason. At least he does want a subaru though!

If you get the stuff to do whichever swap or just any work on your wagon, give me a call and I'll come help you out. I may not have done everything, but I have been able to do quite a bit without any experience. First time doing timing belts, clutch, wheel bearings, etc was done on my wagon and she's still purring like a kitten and drives awesome.

I will definitely check that out next chance I get. Thanks everyone for giving suggestions and comments. This place is great!

I didn't touch the drivers side and the sound was coming from the passenger side for me, but there wasn't anything wrong with the brakes or ball joint, tierod end, or CV on the passenger side and braking did not change it, and it was only there when the car was rolling. It would also stop just before I came to a complete stop. I'm glad its over though.

Or at least mine does. So out of nowhere my loyale starts to make a whirring noise last night. Defnitly sounded like metal on metal so I was thinking that maybe the wheel bearings got some grit in them or went dry. I go through the typical routine of determining whether its related to the engine or drive train. Didn't matter what the engine did, turning did nothing to the noise, braking and accelerating made the noise decrease or increase, respectively, but without any significant change, so that totally had me confused. I did replace the passenger side wheel bearings and that had no effect either. Tonight I did some very minor and gentle offroading and when I got back on pavement the noise was gone! It pretty much left as fast as it came, but thanks to some dirt driving its gone! It had been a while since it'd seen dirt, so I guess the car has its needs too. Anyone know why or what caused this? I'm thinking tranny mounts as a possibility or something's able to shift around and rub on something.

Maybe your brake lines are starting to deteriorate and stretch when you step on the brakes. Definitly worth looking into at least.

I had to figure out that the piston has to be turned when I was doing the brakes on a friend's Infiniti G20 a few years back, although he had disks all the way around with the e-brake in the back. I used the channel locks and they worked well enough. Did the front brakes on my subie and did the same thing with channel locks, then got the specal tool, but haven't used it once. I surely will when I do the brakes again though. It isn't extremely difficult to use pliers or the like. It just takes a while. On a side note, the 89 Toyota camry I used to drive has disks all the way around and the rear e-brake was actually a drum setup inside the rear disks (think drum with a rotor welded to it for a visual example). Totally confused me at first but then I realized that the rotors actually did have a braking surface on the inside and outside.

My garage is full, so I get to bond with my Subie outside, and that included pulling the engine for the clutch job. Looking back i should have resealed the front and rear mains while it was out. I'll just have to pull it when I put in a dual range tranny to reseal.

What I've always done to clean it is take off the actuator, a cylindrical piece sticking off the front passenger side of the throttle body held on by two screws, take off the air bypass hose that connects to the IAC valve and spray some carb cleaner down there while i'm manually opening and closing the valve. The IAC valve can be taken off and much more thoroughly cleaned, but so for this has worked for me. Others may have other methods and they may work better. Hope this helps.

That looks just like one of the solenoids on my Loyale, either the EVAP purge solenoid or the EGR solenoid. I'm not sure if EA81's had EGR's but they probably had EVAP systems to keep fuel vapor in the tank and lines in the car instead of venting them to the atmosphere, so that would be my guess. In either case it shoulnd't affect the car too much. Always nice to keep things working though. An EA81 guru will probably know exactly what its for.

IAC probably just needs to be cleaned. Not sure about the starter switch. Never run across that code while I've had my Loyale wagon

No air bags in Loyales as far as I know. All the goodies went into the Legacies while the Loyales were being made

I tried the passenger light without switching the wires and the high beam was switched with the low beam and low beam when high activated. Switching the two wires took care of that. I've run them on both high and low for quite a long drive and still haven't burned up any wires, so the amps and watts aren't different enough to cause any problems.

There's quite a bit more light than the photos show. This all started cause I had to get a new bulb anyway so why not find something slightly better to install instead. I'd think that the only absolute must wiring upgrade for running with both hi and low beams on would be the ground as the high and low already have their own dedicated wires. Could probably rig up a relay or set of relays to keep the low beams on when you turn on the high beams. I've got my driving lights adjusted to make up for the lack of low beams when highs are on and also set a bit wider than the high or low beams. Keeps me happy, but I'd love to mount some on the roof or something like that so I can light up the countryside:Flame:

Have before and after pics. Not a great difference in the pictures as far as beam pattern, but the light reaches further instead of wider and the silverstars are much brighter. First one is with the 9004, second is with the 9007 and I included a front shot of my Loyale with the driving lights on just cause I could.

The filament placement on the 9007's is almost exactly the same as for the 9104's in that post, the only difference being that the 9104's have the ground and low beam wires the same as the 9004's. What cars do use the 9007's anyway? 9007

I just got done installing some Silverstar 9007's and I'll have before and after pics up hopefully later tonight or tomorrow. I'll let you know if it burns up the wiring, but I don't think it'll be a problem.

The AC does run with the heater blowing on a loyale. Supposedly it is supposed to dry the air or something like that. Checking the blend door is a good idea.