nvexplorer

I'm hoping for at least a couple inches tomorrow morning. Too bad I have to go to class. I want more snow!!!

How long should ATF be used and do you have to flush out all the old oil or just drain it and put in the ATF? My 5 spd is really stiff in the mornings.

Kinda surprising that Subaru didn't come out with a fix for that since it probably affects emissions. My loyale does the same and I back it off like the others who have posted here.

The turning radius was one of the first things that impressed me about my Loyale. I make all my friends jealous when I can enter parking spots from almost any angle and still end up straight or can turn around without having to find a wide spot. I also love how it parallel parks. I parked my car along a street one day and the guy who was parked in front of me looked at me funny when I got out and asked if I parked there or was trapped in by the car behind me. You should have seen the look on his face when I told him that I just parked there.

Could you have a blocked passage? Maybe too much pressure is causing premature gasket failure.

The first winter I had my subie I was testing how she handles in the snow on my way home from work. I was actually going up a slight curved incline a bit faster than I should have been on fresh snow with ice under. Let off the gas at the end of the turn and the back end broke loose. It was fun, but I'm glad that I was only a few houses away from home and my neighbors didn't have their truck parked on the street. After that I also got four snow tires. Haven't had a problem or as much fun since then. Can't wait for the snow to come!

Use a block of wood with the hammer so you don't mess up the threads. Works pretty well.

I wired a switch on my dash in parallel to the thermo switch so I can turn it on at will. By doing this it will not turn on unless the key is in at least acc. so jumping the thermo switch would do the same thing but it will always be on. The fan still comes on when the thermo switch completes the circuit even if my switch is off. Comes in handy when i need the motor to cool down faster.

Haha sorry. Maybe my post will help someone else someday.

If it has power breaks you might have a leak in the vacuum diaphram in the booster. Have you noticed it being stiffer right after you were heavy on the throttle? Does it have the hill holder and if it does maybe it needs adjustment.

That problem also has to do with your Idle Air Control Valve. My 93 loyale either has a really high, talking up to 3000 rpm some days, or really low, won't stay running without me feathering the gas. Just like you, my check engine light comes on when these symptoms happen. I took the valve actuator off and fiddled around with the valve once and it kept it from happening for a while. I guess these things get stuck sometimes or just need a good cleaning. Maybe taking the valve out and actually cleaning/lubing it may clear up the problem. The IAC actuator is the cylinder coming off of the passenger side of the intake, right under the air bypass hose, the one going to the IAC valve. It's held on by two screws that can be a bit of a pain to take off because you have to get the screwdriver around a bunch of stuff. There is no gasket between the valve and actuator, so don't worry about anything falling off when you remove it. It is the one with the round black connector. Took me a couple minutes to figure out how to get the connector appart. You have to lift the plastic tab and pull the connector appart at the same time. A flat head screw driver has been my best friend for that. The first time I tried to get it working I just moved the valve manually and it did loosen up a bit and I didn't have that problem for a while. Maybe some carb cleaner or something would help. Maybe spraying some down the bypass tube and moving the valve could help to clean things up. I hope this helps and that someone else can add to this.

The hardest part of my heater core exchange was getting a heater core. I went from heat for maybe a minute to heat just a couple minutes after the car has been going. I got some gunk out of my old core by running water through it, but that was just like holding it up to a faucet and letting water fill it then dumping it. I'm sure I could get some more out if I used some more pressure. It sounds worse than it actually is.

That "you will pass" stuff didn't work in our 351 Windsor either. Of course we haven't used that truck in so long. Good luck with the testing!

On my Loyale the fuel pump hums for a second or two when I turn the key to Run not Start. Have you checked the connections around the ECU? Lots of them and if the previous owner did any work on it and didn't get one totally connected it may have come undone. I just had my dash appart to replace the heater core and there are lots of connections all over the place. Wouldn't hurt to check anyway. USMB Rocks!!

Having just replaced mine in my 93 Loyale I can tell you that it is the bottom one. After replacing my heater core my HVAC control unit decided to spring an internal vacuum leak. Pick n pull had plenty to choose from and everything works fine now. The top three vacuum lines have numbers on the rubber tubes in order from top to bottom as follows. 1, 2, 4 (there is no 3) and then the bottom one which doesn't have a number on the line. The HVAC unit also has numbers on the plastic right next to where you connect the lines so you can make sure that you don't put the wrong one on the wrong hole. When you have the lines off you can start the engine and figure out which one is sucking. You should be able to hear and feel it. If you can't then you might want to check the other end of it in the engine compartment. Good luck.

My dad had someone almost do the same thing to him but from the passenger side and lost his driverside mirror. He wasn't driving a subaru though. I just think that people suck when it comes to driving.

I love my loyale, but it'd be nice to have dual range 4wd instead of the push button 4hi. Still can't complain about having a car that will plow through snow going home from work and drive right out of the driveway (up hill to get to the street) the next morning. Are you sure it needs HG's? Might just need a timing belt or the intake gasket may need to be replaced, depending on the symptoms. Lots of threads on here about HG's and timing. I think it took me a total of 1 hour to pull my engine to do the clutch including setting up a tripod out of pipe with a comealong and removing the hood. Easy to work on.

you might want to check the wires around the ECU. I was pulling out at an intersection and just as I was letting the clutch out my loyale started sputtering and cutting in and out. Turned out to be two wires on the passenger side of the ecu that had damaged insulation due to the metal on the kick panel and the movement my foot causes when using the clutch. Got through the intersection and found the wires, taped em up and haven't had a problem since. Just two little wires almost had me stopped in the middle of an intersection. I'd say its worth a check.

My first timing belt job I never even took the cap off of the disty. Just replaced the belts and read some posts here to figure out that one is 180* out from the other. I did the first one side then the other method and it worked the third time and then just had to adjust the ign timing at the disty. Been running great since. Just take your time and try to get things lined up one by one. If it doesn't start then something isn't right and needs to be done again. I'm just glad that this was the first car I've done timing on. So much more room for error than other engines.

My drivers side lap belt mechanism rattles. Took me forever to figure out where it was coming from cause it was always behind me. It is where the belt rolls up on the floor boards. Just a little metallic rattle and doesn't affect the belt as far as locking and unlockin. Just annoying.

There is an indicator light in my 93 Loyale. The figure of a car in the center of the instrument panel shows when the doors are open and when it is in 4wd. I do believe that you see green tires all the way around when its in 4wd. When my button is up i'm in 2wd and when its depressed its in 4wd. Try to on a dirt road with the switch one way and then try the other. You shouldn't be able to do much except accelerate when in 4 whereas 2 will send dirt and rocks flying.

My 93 Loyale does just about the same thing and I temporarily got rid of the hesitation when I cleaned my Idle air control module. Its the cylinder on the front of the intake boot. All it does is actuate a valve to bypass the throttle plate so the car can have enough air to keep running at idle. It closes when the throttle is open and opens when the throttle closes and I'm pretty sure that mine stays open even after the throttle opens (causes it to hesitate) and eventually closes but then doesn't open all the way when the throttle closes (causes engine to die if I don't feather the gas for a second or two). It's only attached by two screws and has a connector. They're expensive little suckers so I just keep taking it off and squirting it with carb cleaner or whatever i have handy and manually actuate it a few times. I'm sure there is a write up about it somewhere.

Going from Reno to Winnemucca I average around 80 mph with a record speed of 96 MPH (gps) The speedometer stayed at 90 even when the gps said 80 after that and eventually came back down to the correct speed. Oh and I got 30 mpg that trip too!

autozone.com has some shop manual stuff. Sometimes it takes a bit of searching to find what you want, but so far it hasn't been too bad. Then again i have a chilton's manual so I don't ever look at the subaru section. Has come in handy for other cars like our Taurus. How long does it take for the AC pump to go out on one of those? Ours is rattling pretty good and its a 97.

I have my HH adjusted so it releases just before the clutch grabs. Still holds great even on San Fran streets and the car doesn't have time to roll back once the HH disengages and the clutch engages.