nvexplorer

The two nuts on the end of the clutch cable should allow for any adjustments. If you make the cable longer (Move nuts toward end of threads) it should need more pedal travel to engage the clutch. You will also need to adjust the hill holder if you adjust the clutch. Same thing as the clutch adjustment.

Haven't seen anyone post anything about the fan, so thought I would. I've got a 93 loyale ea82 spfi and the aux electric fan works just fine on that thermosensor. I wired a switch in to bypass the sensor to help keep it from overheating so now if i want the fan to stay on a bit longer just flip the switch and stays nice and cool. New radiator took care of the overheating. I've never noticed a difference with the fan if the A/C was on or off.

The fan clutch should work like this...when its cold it should spin freely. When it gets hot the liquid in the clutch thickens and makes the fan spin faster, or at least as fast as the crank. On my 93 Loyale I can hear what the fan is doing. When the engine isn't too hot I can rev it a little and if I keep the RPMs up a bit the wooshing wine that my fan makes goes away. If I do it right after going up the large hill to get home the wooshing wine doesn't go away. My dad's Suburban does the same thing. The engine gets loud then really quiet without changing the RPMs.

Is it an aftermarket radio? I've heard that those can cause the battery to die when the car's off. Sounds like a power drain to me. Your dome light on? Check your grounds.

I recently got a rad for my 93 loyale off of e-bay for about $50. Took a while to ship it to me, but works great! Looks like there are some on there now, but make sure you look into who you buy from and ask the seller questions if you aren't sure. I've got the 5spd in mine, but was sent the automatic rad. Works fine, fits the same, and I'm pretty sure that I could hook up the oil to the tranny cooler on the rad (if thats what those extra two tubes are) to make an oil cooler. Other than that I've only seen them for $100 or more.

I once used a chain hoist sideways to load my car on a flatbed. Had to raise the front of the trailer up to get the exhaust to clear the edge of the trailer, but that was the station wagon. A hatch might be able to clear it no problem.

When the clutch on my Loyale was going out I could hit the gas hard at about any RPM while in gear and get the engine to rev but not get much speed. I was able to get another month out of it after adjusting the cable, so you might consider that. It is located under the spare tire. The clutch fork has two cables going to it. One for the clutch pedal (top) and one for the hill holder. You may also need to adjust the hill holder if you adjust the other cable. When I did replace the clutch, the plate was thin enough that I could bend it with my fingers. Didn't take much to replace it. Hardest part was getting to the bellhousing nuts near the motor mounts. It was also the first time I've ever replaced a clutch, pressure plate and bearings (I also got the flywheel resurfaced). Only reason I took a whole weekend to do it was to clean the engine compartment and the engine while it was out.

I stuck the short end of an allen wrench in one of the flywheel holes and wedged the long end against the stabilizer bracket (the one that connects from the engine to the firewall).

Pulled my EA82 with a come along, a chain, and three pipes. Lowered it onto a bucket (oil pan in bucket) so I could work on it. Much easier and more controled than trying to just grab and lift.

To pull the codes on the 93 loyale, which I also have, you have to remove the kick pannel below the steering wheel (3 metal screws and 2 plastic ones), connect the white connectors by the drivers side firewall (there are white and green connectors. The green ones keep the computer from messing with the timing and stuff when connected) and turn the ignition to ON, unless it already is on. I usually have to lay down under the steering wheel to see the LED in the computer (silver grey box) blink. To clear the codes connect both with the ignition ON. My loyale also does this but only when the engine's cold and only when I start it moving. I find that if I pulse the gas pedal it doesn't bog down as much until the RPMs are up. I'm also interested in knowing what causes this. Mixture too rich/lean? Timing not advancing/retarding to compensate for cold start conditions?

My 93 Loyale gets 40mpg every time I take it south of Carson City and back. Don't know exactly what it is about that area but every time I fill up in Carson, drive around, come back and fill up again and its always 40mpg. THen I come back to Reno and its back to 25-30 mpg.

I ordered a radiator on ebay and that solved my problems. No more overheating. The fan sensor even works when its supposed to now. I can even run it with the AC on max and it doesn't even get close to halfway up the gauge. Yay for unplugged radiators!

My 83 hatch runs decent but it shoots milkshake out the valve cover breather tubes that go up to the air filter from both sides. As soon as I saw that I shut it off.

When I did the timing on my 93 loyale I checked the timing with and without the green connectors connected. With them connected its at 20. With them disconnected its at about 23 or 24.

Thanks for all the posts. I changed the Tstat maybe a month ago and the coolant a few days after that. I wouldn't put it past the radiator being clogged. I have a ea81 radiator thats in good shape. Would I be able to put it in without much trouble or does the ea82 have dimensions that are different enough to make it a hassle?

My 93 Loyale's hill holder works great on uphill slopes. On gentle downhill slopes it'll still work if you hit the brakes hard enough and the car isn't moving. I'm not sure if the brakes are still activated when driving down a hill and say you put the clutch in to coast and have to brake but don't let the clutch out...

The fan does come on sometimes on its own. I also wired it so even if the switch is off if the sensor completes the circuit the fan will come on. Do you know the official name for that sensor or a part #?

My 93 Loyale almost always overheats when I drive home from town. There's a nice long stretch of highway that's all uphill and the temp is usually past 3/4 to the red zone by the time I get off the highway. I've tried pulling 75mph to 55mph and the result is about the same. Recently I wired a switch to the thermo switch on the radiator that controls the electric fan and turn the fan on before I go up the hill and the temp guage hasn't gone up much past the halfway mark. Is my sensor going dead or is the temp range for that fan just too narrow and activates the fan when its already pretty hot? What's the name for that sensor anyway and does anybody have a parts#? Any other thoughts about the overheating? Thanks Jack

Shouldn't you align the 0 degree mark with TDC of the number one cylinder so you can time it sometime in the future? I just changed out the clutch pressure plate and bearings on my Loyale this past weekend. Pulled the engine. Cleaned it up a bit while it was out too.

Driving up to the lake one afternoon my water pump shaft literally broke. I was lucky enough to have that happen in a place where I could pull off. I go to open the hood and the hood releases, but the cable kept pulling. There were some spokes laying alongside the road there and the end is large enough that I just slipped it in where the cable used to be and have been using that ever since. The spoke hasn't ever come out of the latch and I have it bent in such a way that I can hook it behind the grill to keep it hidden and it stays in place even with some offroading. I just got lucky that day. That was also the first time my loyale broke down and the first time I had done any major replacing of parts. Timing covers were a pita. Did the belts while the covers were off. Been running great ever since.

My front passenger side boot was ripped so I bought one of those chemically welded boot kits. Cleaned the joint and it kept it from clicking for a while, but only for probably a month and then it started up again. Its hard to get the clamps on tight enough that the boot doesn't move around or let stuff in. There are also other types of boots available that you can install without taking everything appart, but some of those don't seal well. If you have the time and money I'd say replace them. Would have taken me 3 hours at the most to do my passenger side except the remanufactured assembly I got wasn't fully assembled so it was about an inch too long because the cv joint (the one at the hub) wasn't put together correctly. They replaced it and the newer one was easy enough. If you go remanufactured make sure it has threads all the way to the end. There are many threads on replacing them. Helped me tons.

I recently acquired a 83 gl hatchback 4mt d/r with the specialized rims(not the factory steels). Needs a battery, has a coolant leak, no rear window and some minor body damage. Didn't pay a thing for it and the guy I got it from says it runs great. Being a poor college student, are there any parts on it that I can use on my 93 loyale 5mt p/b 4wd(daily driver)? Having dual range would be awesome, but I'd like to keep the 5 speed. Is there any way that this is possible without taking my loyale out of service for more than a weekend? I wouldn't mind turning the hatch into my offroading toy, but don't have much in the way of money to even register it. Any ideas or suggestions?

My IAC was throwing a code and affecting the idle. I checked the voltage at the harness and it was fine according to the manual. The reisitance for the actuator was also within the specifications. So, I took the actuator off and moved the valve manually and now it works fine and the engine code is gone:banana:. Still high idle at cold start, but doesn't stall or bog down much at all when I try to drive it. The codes for my car used to be the Vehicle Speed Sensor, IAC, EVAP purge valve, and EGR valve. Now only the EVAP and EGR codes remain. Checked the sensor right next to the EGR vacuum actuator and it seems to be alright as far as resistance goes, but its only getting about 4 volts when the ignition is on. Not sure if that's how much there should be. The EVAP valve works just fine, but the vacuum control thing has hardly any resistance so I'm thinking the windings or whatever switch is in it is just bad. Off to PNP for another one and hopefully that'll stop that from throwing a code.

My 93 Loyale 4wd 5mt does the same thing until it idles down. It's the Idle Air Control sensor or valve or whatever it is. I find that if I surge the gas and feather the clutch until i can get it up on the street I can usually do it without stalling. Once on the street I give it just enough gas to get her accelerating and she drives fine after the first block. Checked my codes a while ago and one of them was the IAC.

When I first got my Soob (93 Loyale 5 spd) it had practically bald tires on the back and decent in the front. 4WD would engage fine but sometimes I had to drive foreward in a straight line before it would disengage with a loud clunk. Now I've got new tires all the way around and it engages and disengages easily, and without the clunk. Sometimes I still have to get the wheels rolling to disengage it, but usually only a few feet does it.