loyalewithcheese Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 okay so our loyale crapped out today. the wife was driving it and she said it suddenly lost power, like someone just turned off the key. it made no strange noises, and did not putter out like it had no gas (tank is at 1/2). i met her about 5 mins afterwards, but we were in a rush to get somewhere. at that point all i knew was that the power windows and belts were working well, so the battery had some juice. a few hours later we return to investigate. this is what i know so far... cranks over fine, battery and starter sound healthy. so i think the alternator is okay. all fuses check out, i even swapped the 15amp for the coil with another to check that out i pulled the coil wire at the dizzy to see if i could see a spark while the wife cranked it over. i got nothing. i looked around all wires look connected and okay dizzy cap, plugs and wires are about one year old - externally they looked okay, i didn't have screwdriver to open up the dizzy. oil and coolant levels are good i just replaced the clutch a few weeks ago, so i thought maybe there is wire i messed with that has disconnected itself, but everything at the starter looks fine and all other plugs look intact. so at this point, my best guess is coil. any other opinions or guesses? i read the other coil thread going about the capictor issues. i'm assuming this is the little dodad that below the coil that one of the small wires goes to? if i drop in a new coil should i bypass that, if so anyone know which wires get moved/spliced for that to work? thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 Driver's Side Timing Belt.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 You'll need this... Thank Miles Fox, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyalewithcheese Posted September 8, 2007 Author Share Posted September 8, 2007 You'll need this... Thank Miles Fox, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768 after further searching i was thinking that as well. f***. is this something you really need to pull the motor for? thx droo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 No, the motor can stay in, but removing the radiator will give your hands more room to work. Get a new oil pump seal, cam seals, and check the t-belt idlers while you are in there. Do you know when the belts were last changed? Also consider doing a water pump while you are in there depending on mileage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 Like clockwork every 60 thousand Easy job - remove the radiator to make room. Leave the belt covers off if you like - makes a belt change a 15 minute affair with a 12mm deep socket. Lots of us do it - search for "belt covers" if you want the whole long, drawn out postings on it. There's an ebay auction for the entire belt/idler set here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986-1994-Subaru-1-8-GL-DL-Loyale-Timing-Belt-Kit_W0QQitemZ230168868986QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33625QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem And you should do the water pump as well - preference is for the Parut pumps (OEM). Dealer or wholesale house will have them for about $50 GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyalewithcheese Posted September 9, 2007 Author Share Posted September 9, 2007 Like clockwork every 60 thousand Easy job - remove the radiator to make room. Leave the belt covers off if you like - makes a belt change a 15 minute affair with a 12mm deep socket. Lots of us do it - search for "belt covers" if you want the whole long, drawn out postings on it. There's an ebay auction for the entire belt/idler set here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986-1994-Subaru-1-8-GL-DL-Loyale-Timing-Belt-Kit_W0QQitemZ230168868986QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33625QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem And you should do the water pump as well - preference is for the Parut pumps (OEM). Dealer or wholesale house will have them for about $50 GD hey GD, thanks for the link! i called a flap and found that kit, but they wanted $200. it would have been nice to do it this weekend, but i'm not in that much of a hurry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted September 9, 2007 Share Posted September 9, 2007 Pull the front covers off just to double check before you buy them. 90% chance it is the t-belts, but double check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted September 9, 2007 Share Posted September 9, 2007 I just remembered another point to check... The rotor buttom is held on by a screw, if screw comes out no spark... So take the cap off the disty and see if its still there, while you have the cap off have someone bump the starter and see if it turns the disty. If not broken d/s belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyalewithcheese Posted September 9, 2007 Author Share Posted September 9, 2007 Pull the front covers off just to double check before you buy them. 90% chance it is the t-belts, but double check. ahh.. too late. the car was like 25 miles from home, and given the belt screeching i was having even after i replaced the two a/c & altenator belts, i'm pretty sure it's the belts and tensioners. even the accessory belts were totally trashed, so i'm sure it's been as long since the car has seen new timing belts. i'll at least check before i start pullin' the radiator off. if it's not i'll keep them around for when they do go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyalewithcheese Posted September 9, 2007 Author Share Posted September 9, 2007 I just remembered another point to check... The rotor buttom is held on by a screw, if screw comes out no spark... So take the cap off the disty and see if its still there, while you have the cap off have someone bump the starter and see if it turns the disty. If not broken d/s belt. cool, thanks, i'll check that as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyalewithcheese Posted September 16, 2007 Author Share Posted September 16, 2007 okay, so i did the timing belts today, did an oil seal, i was going to skip the water pump since i was planning on selling soon, but i found some leaked coolant around the pump, and the car hasn't been holding coolant anyway so i decided to get one, thinking maybe the pump was were the leak was. so i found one at kragen. got it on, but one thing wasn't quite right. the metal hose that goes in the side just didn't seem that tight. and the hole was like deeper so the pipe had to go more towards the pump and i even drilled out the hole on it's bracket so i could slide it over more. once that was on it felt fairly tight, but still i didn't trust it. so i get everything back together. she fired up on the first go but after a short while i noticed a fairly steady, drip...drip...drip...drip...drip of coolant on the front of the engine right near the pump. ugh. so should i find a new O ring for that pipe? i can't see crap in there so i don't even know if that's the source. the pump came with no gasket so i scraped the old one and used blue permatex, but i don't know. any advice? i really hope it's the O ring, i so do not want to pull all that crap apart again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 That O ring is a common place for water pump leakage, Its where mine was leaking and many others also...I would get a new O ring and make sure it is sealed good...permatex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yzerman19 Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 Wow, the new pump should have came with a new O riing. I think you got ripped off. Who knows, you may have gotten a return after somebody 'forgot to put the O ring back in the box'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyalewithcheese Posted September 17, 2007 Author Share Posted September 17, 2007 Wow, the new pump should have came with a new O riing.I think you got ripped off. Who knows, you may have gotten a return after somebody 'forgot to put the O ring back in the box'. that's what i thought until i found out i'm aparently retarded. i drove to 5 diff parts stores before finding an O ring that fit, get home and was moving the water pump's box the off the bench when the instructions fell out....along with a gasket and O ring! sonofa..... then, after all that, i get it on, and it still leaked! so, i pulled it ALL apart again, and this time i drilled out the metal hose bracket some more so it would seat all the way down. now it seems to be holding water. i had to drill out like 3/4 inches more of hole in the bracket so it would move over enough to seat in the pump. piece of crap pump. oh well, at least now i can get to the timing belts in record time. thanks for all your help (especially the ebay link! that was $140 cheaper than a local parts store). i've been too cheap to buy a workshop manual for this car, but with usmb i don't really need one. i friggin love forums! man, i'm old enough to remember wrenching before the interweb got all popular....them were dark days, lots of headscraching, guessing, and really really bad desicions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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