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I'm looking at getting my wife an outback wagon, I'm usually across in the Old Gen forum so I don't have a lot of experience with the newer gen vehicles.

The wagon I've found locally is a 1998, dark green, 2.5L, Auto (wife doesn't want a stick) They're asking $3000 cash price for it.

 

Mileage: 174,848

Body Style: Wagon

Exterior Color: Green

Interior Color: GREY

VIN: 4S3BG6853W7631509

Engine: 4 Cylinders

Transmission: AUTOMATIC

Drivetrain: 4X4

 

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What should I be looking for when I go to check it out today? Does the price seem about right?

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That looks exactly like my car! I have slightly less mileage than that but its funny how common these cars are.

 

I have had mine for 6 years or so and I have learned first hand about certain problems that have happened to me. It has been a good car just hasn't lived up to the legendary Subaru reliability.

 

1. Has the head gasket been replaced? Undoubtedly it will have by this time or if not you will be looking at doing it. Mine went at 95k, even with good maintenance and I learned with this vintage Subaru and this particular engine (2.5) it is an issue. Evidently there were issues with the head gasket design that have forced the redesign of the head gasket numerous times. and btw when changing the coolant there is this special additive that needs to go in the radiator.

 

2. With an auto the ATF is also used by the transaxle and I got a slow speed shudder going around corners. The correct term is torque bind but it feels like you are dragging the car's inside rear whell through the corner (which essentially you are!). A power flush of the AT fixed the problem.

 

3. Make sure you get that camshaft belt changed or ensure it has been changed. Mine was done with the head gasket.

 

I am going through problems starting at the moment which i think are due to the starter solenoid or starter itself. Not resolved yet.

 

Good luck with your dealings!

 

Joe

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Welcome to the New Gen...

 

To add to the above:

 

The head gaskets will cost a min. of $1500, unless you're a mechanic. One thing visually to check is the coolant overflow tank. If there's any oily film or it looks 'grimy', the HG is on its way out....although it could've been done and they didn't clean it out afterwards. Also, make sure on the test drive the temp gauge rises to just below midway and doesn't move once warmed up. If it fluctuates @ all, that may be another sign.

 

With the torque bind (TB), there may be a procedure, using the FWD fuse under the hood, to identify whether a tranny flush will fix it or not....a little searching will describe TB in more detail - Nipper here on USMB is an expert. Drive the car in circles/figure 8's to test for this - it should be nice and smooth, if you feel any 'dragging' you've got it. Expect $900+ to fix - the tranny doesn't need rebuilt, but rear clutches do, which requires a lot in labor to drop the tranny.

 

I'd also check for rust on nut/bolts under the hood- common on NE cars anyway...it isn't a real issue 'til it's time to replace suspension/drive train parts, which can cause issues when replacement time comes around.

 

Regardless of these issues, I'd still buy another one. I like the way they drive and get around in the snow great!

 

$3000 is a good price IF it checks out okay...maybe there are records in the glove box??

 

Good luck.

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you can tell by popping the hood and looking if the headgaskets have been replaced. where the headgasket sticks out of the block you can tell if it's one piece or mulit-layer just by looking at it. the last two legacy's i bought (both 1997's) both had new headgaskets on them and i didn't know until i went to pick them up.

 

price seems good.

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Means worst case I can swap the 4EAT out of my 88GL-10T in?
no way that would work. there are very similar but the electronics are going to be all sorts of different, speed sensors are different, TCU is different...etc. your GL10 rear transfer clutches would be very weak too. final drive would be way off as well. your transmission won't have the same bellhousing bolt either, so you'd need some kind of adapter made or something. basically a ton of issues and work, much simpler to get the right trans.
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Well she drives nice, needs a new driver's window motor or switch.

Heat shield rattles on the exhaust, no TB though, Head gasket appears to have been replaced as has the alt at some point recently.

Small bit of rust bubble on the pass. rear wheel arch.

Dealer appears to be a bit of a knob though. I called down and talked to one guy, cash price from him was $3000, talked to a different guy when I went in there and he gave me cash price of $3500:-\

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Wow...that sounds like my old OB...except mine was white.. I pounded a nail thru the heat shield -not the exhaust!- which stopped the rattle. I had a rust bubble on the driver's side rear wheel arch.

 

You may just need to clean the contacts on the window switch - since you're 'old school' that should be a familiar task??

 

Oh, did you check for Subie leaks? Cam, valve cover, rear main (rare, but $$) seals? They're usually not a big deal but because they leak on the exhaust, your wife may not like the smell!

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yeah, engine could do with a spray down etc. I've got a mate up the road who has a shop and would let me throw it on the hoist to give a good look underneath. Have to sell my wife's current ride b4 we can land her this outback. I was pretty impressed with it though, nice handling, well appointed and comfortable...

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yeah, engine could do with a spray down etc. I've got a mate up the road who has a shop and would let me throw it on the hoist to give a good look underneath. Have to sell my wife's current ride b4 we can land her this outback. I was pretty impressed with it though, nice handling, well appointed and comfortable...

Mine had a really bad heat shield rattle, all it took was a large clamp to hold it tight. No more problems,and only a few bucks.

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