my Haynes manual just says to remove the pins for the rear axles to drop down on my '86 4wd loyale wagen..I am having a problem with this method in trying to remove them and I was wondering if something further in the suspension needs to be unbolted to make this work

i'm interested in this question too. i think i've had to drop the rear diff as well - 3 additional bolts and playing with all that weight hanging on the axles.

 

thing is...i know the off-road guys swap the axles out by just knocking out the pins, but maybe that's because they have a lift and the axles are "stretched" more?

thing is...i know the off-road guys swap the axles out by just knocking out the pins, but maybe that's because they have a lift and the axles are "stretched" more?

 

That's exactly the case actually.

 

Unbolt the control arm from the bottom of the coil-over to get the room you need.

 

GD

That's exactly the case actually.

 

Unbolt the control arm from the bottom of the coil-over to get the room you need.

 

GD

I was just going to start with this method..I need to have just a little more, an inch or two will do it

OK,

 

Please forgive me if this post is ignorant. But hey, I'm in a bind. I am trying to replace the rear axle on my dirty dirty 87 rx 5 spd. I did exactly as the 'keep your subaru alive' manual page 359 says, to remove the TOP of the shock mount from the car. I assume this would do the same thing as GD suggested by unbolting the bottom of the coil over. The problem is that I still cannot get the axle to slide away from the diff like the book says. Both pins are totally out and when the axle slides as far OUT as i can get it the pin holes line up perfectly. Any suggestions?

 

Thx

Major 'Too lazy to hire a mechanic' Lazy

You may have to push down on the control arm to get the room you need. The bushings keep them from moving much on their own.

 

But that's the method. Pull the pins, remove the shock mount (upper or lower) and pull the axle off.

 

You may have an axle with an outer CV cup instead of a DOJ. That just means you may have to push down harder on the control arm to get the room you need.

 

GD

EA81s it's easier. Pop the pins. same with most lifted EA82

 

But in stock height EA82s, It been my experience that the 3 trailing arm bolt need to be removed as well as the shock bolt. This allows the axle to slide off easily, without removing the diff(other option) But make sure you mark the bolt holes for realignment. The position of those three bolts adjusts the rear wheel alignment.

You don't need to remove those if you push down on the arm. You may have to have someone push it down with their foot. The movement is there you just have to do a little persuasion. As stated those three bolts change your alignment so I wouldn't touch them. I would drop the diff down before I touched those. But that's a personal choice I guess.

 

GD

I had a trick when I just did my rear wheel bearing. My axle wouldn't budge off the diff, but would slide off the stub shaft in the hub. I took the bottom bolt out of the coilover, but couldn't push down enough and pull the axle out at the same time. So I took the stock Subaru jack, the skinny one, and put it in between the body of the car and the control arm. And used the jack to push the control arm down, worked perfect for me, and my axle slid right off Give it a try!

... used the jack to push the control arm down, worked perfect for me, and my axle slid right off Give it a try!

 

Stock scissor jack worked perfectly, Thanks GD and 94 you have been a huge help.

Major, Glad it worked out for you!