srs_49 Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 First of all, I have found this forum to be goldmine for info regading Subies, and am grateful to all of those who have posted tips, solutionsr, etc that have helped people like me out. Thanks a lot! I have a 2002 OBW H6 with 105,000 miles on it. Over the last couple of months I have: - changed spark plugs - replaced the air and fuel filters - replaced the coolant - Changed the ATF, using the 3-changes-in-rapid-succession process - Changed the front and rear diff fluids - Front and rear pads have been replaced as needed, as have the front rotors - as part of the pad replacement, flushed the brake fluid - Rotate the tires regularly Is there anything else I should be doing or concerned with at this point in time, from a maintenance standpoint? I'm planning on keeping this vehicle another 100,000 miles, and don't want to find out later that there is something I should have done but didn't. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 I am impressed, you have been very thorough. You remind me of maintenance items that I should be doing on my 2 Subies that I have over looked. BTW, have you replaced the timing belt, front oil crank seal, and the water pump? Usually all three items are done at the same time, as the labor to replace the timing belt only, is 90% of doing the labor to do all of the three. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 This is an H6 so no timing belt to worry about. Do NOT let the vehicle overheat (i.e. maybe replace thermostat WITH OEM now....overheating is not good for the water pump seals either). What brand/type coolant did you put in? I think you've hit the hilights. Check out the service/maintenance schedule and take special note of any 'severe service' etc items noted. Flush power steering fluid (it's Dexron II/III just like the ATF) (turkey baster method works; just do it like half a dozen times). Also I would replace your serpentine accessory drive belt and tensioner/idler now. Replace tensioner/idler because I have seen a few posts about those failing on the H6. Maybe replace your ATF filter (on H6 it's remote mounted in the LH (driver) side fender). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 I'd replace the PCV valve and thermostat as well. Subaru ONLY on both of these, do not use aftermarket here. i would go ahead and replace the battery as well. it is personal preference really, but here is how i view it and i think you'll feel similar. it is unlikely that this current battery will make it to 200,000 miles and another 6 years. it might, but would not be surprised to see it fail anytime between now and then either. as a battery ages or fails it can take the alternator with it. as the battery weakens it can over work the alternator and could do that for a awhile before the battery finally expires to the point you realize it needs replacing. batteries and alternators work hand in hand. what i find is that often times when i'm replacing a friend/family members alt or battery, it's often only 6 months to a year before i'm replacing the other. they cheap enough it's not that big of a deal to me. also - check the battery terminals while you're at it, make sure they are tight and clean. same thing applies, loose connections and corrosion can shorten the life of your alternator and battery. i'd check into the water pump as well. asking a water pump to make it 200,000 miles is a bit of a stretch....again it's just a percentage, risk management thing. for instance on the subarus with timing belts and 105,000 mile intervals, i always replace the water pump with the timing belt, i wouldn't expect a water pump to make it two timing belt intervals (210,000). on the 60,000 mile change interval timing belts i change the water pump every two (120,000) timing belt changes. they can make it to 200,000, but they can also fail before then. i'd price it out or see what kind of a job it is for you and see if it's worth the money. check your radiator hoses and clamps. in maryland/rust belt areas they tend to rust and eat into the rubber hoses quicker. yours are new enough they should be near new though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srs_49 Posted November 13, 2007 Author Share Posted November 13, 2007 Thanks for all the feedback. porcupine73- 1. On the coolant, I put in Prestone Extended Life; used distilled water, not tap. No other additives or sealants. 2. Yes, forgot about the power steering - thank for the reminder. Have some ATF left over from the tranny change-out, so will do that soon. 3. The sepentine belt was replaced by the dealer around 60,000 miles. Don't remember if the tensioner was also replaced - it would be on the service ticket. Do you think it needs to replaced after only 45,000 miles? 4. I was going to replace the ATF filter the next time I do a 4 quart fluid swap. grossgary- 5. I have kept the battery & terminals clean. Usually use a baking soda/water mixture once in a while which neutralizes any leaked battery acid. I'll probably wait on the battery until it won't start one day . Usually if that happens, it'll be in the morning after an all night soak in 10 deg temperature, and I have a extra vehicle to use. 6. Had not thought about the PCV and the thermostat. PCV is a no brainer, but I usually let thermostats go until the engine doesn't get hot enough, which, in my experience, is how they fail (stuck open). Has your experience been different? 7. Yes, I don't really expect the water pump to go 200K. But, since I don't have to do a belt replacement (the H6 has a timing chain), I'm going to wait until some symptoms of a bad pump show up. I've had bad pumps on other cars, and they usually start leaking (seals or bearings shot) and give you some forwarning of failure. 8. I checked the radiator hoses & clamps when I did the coolant flush. They all looked solid but again, I don't expect them to go 200K miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srs_49 Posted November 13, 2007 Author Share Posted November 13, 2007 BTW. The front diff drain on my 2002 H6 was a 22mm (7/8"). I though I was going to need a T70 Torx, so was surprised (and happy) that I didn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 Ok I didn't realize the serp belt was already replaced. The belt itself is what probably 105k mile interval (that's what the H4 accessory belts are). Anyway they probably didn't replace the tensioner/idler; there would be no reason for them to do so unless it failed. It's just I've seen a few posts where they just break off or something. Prestone as far as I know is an OAT coolant (like dexcool) that Subaru says not to use in Subaru's. Many people do run it though. It is important to check your coolant level by removing the rad cap (not just looking in the overflow tank) periodically, as air in with OAT coolants makes this silty stuff form on the metal parts, then the coolant washes it away and makes this gloppy clogging result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Does your manual call for "always" adding Subaru coolant conditioner to the radiator? Maybe thats just on the 2.5s. Juan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 coolant conditioner is EJ25 specific, he won't need that. agree with the water pump, not much chance of doing any further damage if you don't try to drive it without coolant once it starts to fail. thermostats can definitely stick shut. yours is so new and had a coolant change that chances of failure are small but at 100,000 miles i wouldn't consider it a bad idea to replace. i would do it if it's easy to get to (every subaru i know of is, but i haven't done a thermostat on an H6 either). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Will be interesting to se how this engine ages, since you already have 105K on it. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srs_49 Posted November 22, 2007 Author Share Posted November 22, 2007 Will be interesting to se how this engine ages, since you already have 105K on it. nipper I agree, since I tend to keep my cars a long time. My daily drive is an '87 BMW with around 190,000 miles on it. Will keep this forum informed of how things go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srs_49 Posted January 18, 2008 Author Share Posted January 18, 2008 Ok I didn't realize the serp belt was already replaced. The belt itself is what probably 105k mile interval (that's what the H4 accessory belts are). Anyway they probably didn't replace the tensioner/idler; there would be no reason for them to do so unless it failed. It's just I've seen a few posts where they just break off or something. Alright - I waited too long. Lost the serpentine belt tonight on my way out to run an errand. After a brief inspection, it looks like one of the idler pullies froze up, and this caused the belt to wear and break. 107,000 miles on the car now. All in all was pretty lucky as my wife had just gotten home from a 3 hours commute in a couple of inches of the white stuff (sometimes called the White Death around here). Will be replacing the belt and pully next week sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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