Optimator Posted December 5, 2007 Share Posted December 5, 2007 What are all the reasons the check engine light might come on? Blasted CO emissions test is coming up and that light is on 95% of the time. I'll be replacing the oxygen sensor tomorrow but I'm curious what else it could be if that doesn't fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyewdall Posted December 5, 2007 Share Posted December 5, 2007 Well, first of all, what is the code? (hook some wires together under the hood, then look a the blinking light on the ECU under the dash -- there's direction on that somewhere on here) Second... mine has been on for a year and half, and I passed emissions in Boulder just fine last spring -- less than a quarter of the allowed levels. So, whatever the oxygen sensor is(n't) doing, it seems to still be running okay... MPG is still around 28 to 30 too. They can't fail you for the check engine light any more I think... people complained that people could pass on the highway monitoring stations without even seeing the light so I think they stopped looking at that. Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Optimator Posted December 5, 2007 Author Share Posted December 5, 2007 I found this thread.... Subaru ECU Codes for 1983-1988 I've learned what I thought was a lot about cars in the last few years but I didn't know about the ECU. I've been repairing computers a lot longer and it still amazes me how much more complex cars are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudduck Posted December 5, 2007 Share Posted December 5, 2007 When I was living out there, I passed the e-test with the check engine light on in my old toyota truck. I don't know if they changed the rules or not, been three years ago, but the light being on didn't matter then. Here in NC in certain countys, on 96 or newer, they do a obd test. Any codes come up you fail and have 9 days to fix the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Optimator Posted December 5, 2007 Author Share Posted December 5, 2007 Last year the CEL was on the test sheet. Maybe it isn't grounds for failure though. So I found the blinking light thing and it's telling me Code 35: Purge Control Solenoid Or Circuit. My next step: figure that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Loyale Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 Optimator, Check this link out, at the very bottom of the page is a copy of a factory service manual, you'll need adobe reader to open it up. But page 72 is dedicated completely to the Purge Solenoid fault, and has a bunch of tests to run in order to find the problem. I think it will definately help you out! http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 Generally it means the solenoid is bad. Replace it with a 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor and call it a day. The solenoid performs no function that you or the testing people will miss. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Optimator Posted December 7, 2007 Author Share Posted December 7, 2007 I read several old threads so I'm making an attempt to learn this myself, but correct me if I misunderstood this. It appears I can buy this resistor at a Radio Shack. I would then cut the electrical wires close to the solenoid, solder the resistor between the two wires, and maybe use tubing that shrinks upon heating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted December 7, 2007 Share Posted December 7, 2007 I read several old threads so I'm making an attempt to learn this myself, but correct me if I misunderstood this. It appears I can buy this resistor at a Radio Shack. I would then cut the electrical wires close to the solenoid, solder the resistor between the two wires, and maybe use tubing that shrinks upon heating. You've basically got it. But you may not want to cut the wire.I would use an extra little length of wire, and a few spade sonnector and make the Reistor "plug in" to where the solenoid was. That way, if for some crazy reason they spot it, and make you get it replaced, the orignal wire loom is still intact, and a new solenoid could be plugged right in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Optimator Posted December 7, 2007 Author Share Posted December 7, 2007 When I was looking for this solenoid (which I think I found, but not entirely sure), I noticed the evap canister has connections for 4 hoses but there are only 3 hoses connected to it. One just has a cap on it. Is that normal? Or should there need to be a hose there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Optimator Posted December 7, 2007 Author Share Posted December 7, 2007 Let me try a picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Optimator Posted December 7, 2007 Author Share Posted December 7, 2007 The purge valve solenoid is the one that is connected to the canister, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Optimator Posted December 7, 2007 Author Share Posted December 7, 2007 Thank you, GD and Gloyale. The CEL is now off. Also, I now know how to solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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