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Can stock Outback Lift Kit be removed?


sam888
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If I understand things right the Outback in addition to longer strut assemblies and larger tires also has a lift kit that comes stock.

I was just wondering if the lift kit that comes stock on an Outback can be removed? I am thinking of the installing Outback struts and springs on my 91 Legacy LS and if possible I would also like to add the Outback Lift kit.

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If I understand things right the Outback in addition to longer strut assemblies and larger tires also has a lift kit that comes stock.

I was just wondering if the lift kit that comes stock on an Outback can be removed? I am thinking of the installing Outback struts and springs on my 91 Legacy LS and if possible I would also like to add the Outback Lift kit.

 

 

It kind of works that way.

 

It is not a full on lift per'se, but just a couple blocks between the front and rear x-members (and the front of the diff x-member) to help keep camber and toe in check.

 

You might need the pitch stopper, steering joint and radiator hoses as well.

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I think you need the control arm mounts a well. Since the front end of the of the control arm is bolted to the crossmember, and the other is bolted to the unibody. Between the crossmember there is a block, or spacer. There is no block at the unibody mount however, so you need need the taller mount forn the outback or to fashion a block.

 

At the rear, the trailing arm mounts are a similar affair. However I suspect that because of the length of the arms and the nature of the design, you can get away without swapping those. In fact they may not even be any different come to think of it.

 

Seems to me that using just the ouback struts and no blocks to lift gives you the best real ground clearance advantage. The drive train stays up high, all the lift transfer to actual inches of clearance. Stress on the drivetrain I suppose would be the only worry, but seems minimal.

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Yeah, the outback blocks don't give any extra height. You could get them out and install them. I think they might be spot welded to the crossmembers, I don't recall exactly. If they are it's just a matter of breaking the spotwelds. They just lower the drivetrain for better angles on the C/V joints. Lots of people seem to be running the Outback struts without the blocks and don't seem to be having any trouble. What you might want to look into is the Outback rear trailing arms, I think they are longer. Some of the older leagacy's I've seen lifted have the rear wheels pulled forward. I think the longer outback arms will help with that.

 

 

I think you need the control arm mounts a well. Since the front end of the of the control arm is bolted to the crossmember, and the other is bolted to the unibody. Between the crossmember there is a block, or spacer. There is no block at the unibody mount however, so you need need the taller mount forn the outback or to fashion a block.

 

At the rear, the trailing arm mounts are a similar affair. However I suspect that because of the length of the arms and the nature of the design, you can get away without swapping those. In fact they may not even be any different come to think of it.

 

Seems to me that using just the ouback struts and no blocks to lift gives you the best real ground clearance advantage. The drive train stays up high, all the lift transfer to actual inches of clearance. Stress on the drivetrain I suppose would be the only worry, but seems minimal.

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why bother with the outback stuff. if you use the wrx struts and springs you will get between 1.5-2" lift depending on how bagged your current springs are.

 

it'll look like this

 

painted_red2.jpg

 

Sweet looking ride. Where'd you get the light bar?

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Thanks to who responded to my question.

 

I think I'm going lift my subaru by using just the OB Struts and springs. I don't have the cash to do it know so it will have to wait until maybe this summer. I will post some pictures when it is done.

 

 

sam

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I guess I could see that being the case if your Mom's Outback is a '95 or early '96. I have '97 OB struts with '93 springs on my '93 Legacy and I can barily cram Outback size tires under it. When I get time I'll be installing a set of 97' OB struts with OB springs. That'll raise it another inch or so and might stiffen the ride a little. I had good luck with the last set of reman axles so I'm not too worried about the extra angle.

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PIC000041.JPG

 

Legacy brighton with origional springs + kyb outback struts on the left, 1998 stock outback on the right. Same rims and tire size on both of them.

 

The older legacy's may be different. Here's the one me and konrad put together, we used outback struts but for the life of me I can't remember which springs we used. We had to take the springs off to swap the strut caps. I think we used the outback springs, but i'm not sure.p8296234ka1.th.jpg

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  • 5 weeks later...

looking at this picture there appears to be more sharply of an angle with thelower control arms on the red ones.

 

i put forester struts in my leganus, it seemed to bring the fron tup but the back doesnt seem any higher. but then again the rear suspension was shot and the springs are worn.

 

i have LOTS of travel in the rear so i'm sure i can get another 3 inches of wheel clearance by using taller springs and spacers

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I just installed Outback struts on a 91 Legacy.

 

Lifted the car about 2inch, plus the height of bigger tires(205/75/15). I like it.

 

The "lift" blocks would actually lower the crossmembers and diff resulting in less ground clearance(but more room in the wheel wells) And you WILL have to use the A arm mounts and Trailing arm mount from the Outback, as well as the crazy inverted Mustache bar for the snout of the diff.

 

Not worth it. OB struts alone give you better off road clearance for less work.

 

 

A couple notes:

 

1. Drive the roll pins out of the axles before unbolting the knuckles. Otherwise the DOJ can be hyperextended when you flop the knuckle outward. Make sure the axle is back on the stub, and properly aligned before reasembly.

 

2. You must use the original(or direct replacement) Legacy springs and tops for the rears. The bolt pattern and centering is different for OB. The springs also need the taper to clear the body, the wide OB springs won't fit.

 

3. Brake line are routed through a clip on the strut. My preffered method here is to CAREFULLY grind out a notch that the line can slide through. Grind the new strut the same way. Once you reinstall the little clip, they will hold just the same. Nissan struts use that excact deign from the factory.

 

Or unbolt the lines from the calipers and get brake fluid everywhere and do a bleed when you're done. I guess if you needed to change all you're fluid anyhow:rolleyes: .........

 

Either way works.

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right now im running outback struts on my 90 legacy wagon and it gave me about 2 inches or so, im running 215/75/15 tires, they rub a smidge at full turn, but other than that its good.... hoping to use the outback springs soon... as its a 90, not a 95+ it should do a little bit of good, maybe not much, but some.. and every little bit counts.....

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