Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Ultimate Subaru Message Board

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

12v sources

Featured Replies

hey, so the 87 gl kicked the bucket, but i scored an 89 gl for cheap. need to wire up some things the 87 had, but under the dash doesn't have the same sources for 12 that i was previously using. are there any empty/unused connections, or do i have to tap into other things.

 

also, planning on putting in some kill switches (likely fuel, ignition, maybe starter) since my carpets are out, does anyone know if the ground from the fuel pump runs in the bundle of wires, and what colour it is. and is there somewhere the ignition wires meet at a connector (hopefully under dash), or do i have to go in at the steering column?

I usually tap into the cigarette lighter's power source for most my accessories. I never use the lighter anyhow and never miss it.

hey, so the 87 gl kicked the bucket, but i scored an 89 gl for cheap. need to wire up some things the 87 had, but under the dash doesn't have the same sources for 12 that i was previously using.

 

87 and 89 GLs have 99.9% identical wiring. This statement doesn't make sense to me.

 

I myself usually add a 10G wire to the fuse box by crimping it in to one of the unused spots in the back. But I install it with an inline fuse holder with a 25 AMP fuse. And then run my accesories off that. Beyond that get out a test light.

and is there somewhere the ignition wires meet at a connector (hopefully under dash),

 

All the wiring to the switches on the column have connectors. They are tucked up around the ECU box.

I really depends on how fancy you wanna get.

If I had a LOT of things to hook up, I'd install a relay & pull directly from the battery.

Find a switched 12v to trigger the relay. Then use a terminal block to distribute the power. Fuse each component individually, for safety's sake.

If it's alot of stuff, I'd run a new #10AWG wire directly to the battery with an inline 30 amp fuse, to a new fuse block under the dash or such -- then you can have a separate fuse for your CB, Ham radio, inverter, spotlight, etc......

 

Otherwise, just hijack the wire to the existing lighter socket.

If it's alot of stuff, I'd run a new #10AWG wire directly to the battery with an inline 30 amp fuse, to a new fuse block under the dash or such -- then you can have a separate fuse for your CB, Ham radio, inverter, spotlight, etc......

 

 

I hate wiring attached directly to the battery. Looks janky, and makes terminal replacement a PITA when they corrode. If you really want to run you're line from that far back, run it out of the fusible link block. Most of them have an empty spot that a spade can be inserted into. Then use a fusible link. this still means running a wire through the firewall.

 

If you don't want to do that, the "easy way" I think, is in the fuse box. If you pull the fuse box down, there are open clips in the back. Now, all the open slots are on the unfused side of the block, so an inline fuse is still needed. But this way the power is still supplied through the Fusible links, so you have some extra protection. And no need to run wires all over the darn car.

I hate wiring attached directly to the battery. Looks janky, and makes terminal replacement a PITA when they corrode.

 

Depends on what sort of terminals you have -- if you have the ones that clamp onto the battery post then have a stud with a wing nut, it's pretty easy to just put a another wire with a ring terminal on there. If it's a factory cable end that goes right into the post clamp, it's a pita, I agree.

 

Z

Depends on what sort of terminals you have -- if you have the ones that clamp onto the battery post then have a stud with a wing nut, it's pretty easy to just put a another wire with a ring terminal on there. Z

 

I still think it looks janky. Plus, for safety you'd have to mount you're inline fuse, right there next to the battery to flop in the breeze. And then when you're radio fue blows you have to open the hood, instead of going right to the fusebox area, where all the other fuses are. Or have a potential hazrd in the form of an unfused wire running through the engine bay.

 

I'm just sayin. It's a very little differecne in preference really, not trying to :Flame: anyone.

For low power add ons, I usually make adapters from connectors and wire & terminals from my big box of spare wiring harnesses. I can match the gauge and color of the existing circuit I'm tapping into. I made a tool for removing the terminals from the plastic housings out of one of the stainless steel strips from a windshield wiper refill.

 

For amature radio transievers, they have to go to the battery - they need minimal voltage drops. The wiring has the fuses right at the battery.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

ok, well i think there were some differences because the 87 was carbed and the 89 is FI, but I have found sources for the power and the ignition switch connection, but where is the fuel pump relay or connection so I can run a kill switch?

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in

Sign In Now

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.