Major Lazy Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Ok, I have searched as best I can and I cant seem to find a good place to start looking to figure my problem out so here goes. my 87 rx 5speed recently started to idle high (1700-2500 rpm) and the turbo light no longer functions. When i goose the gas it idles low (600 rpm) for a few seconds and then goes back to high idle. A (previously owner installed) vacuum guage indicates about 0psi at idle (used to be about -10). The previously mentioned goose caused the vacuum to jump to about-10 then creep back to 0 as the idle climbs. Other than this the car seems to run just fine except that I seem to be getting 21mpg instead of about 23 i used to get. Of course that could just be my right foot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 check for a bad vacuum line or a vacuum leak of some kind somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 this could be a vacuum issue as the Beast says. No turbo light and 0 " Hg on the vac gauge indicate this. (you should change this to a vac/boost gauge, BTW) The turbo light is triggered by a pressure switch located in front of the pass side strut tower. The WDS (Wastegate Duty Solenoid) is also located in this area. This is between the MAF/aircleaner box and the tower. Might look for the line, this checking both ends for breaks ect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Lazy Posted February 10, 2008 Author Share Posted February 10, 2008 Any ideas on how to track down a vacuum leak with minimal cost? I checked all the hoses & connections and they look ok, when its at low idle and coasting my brakes barely work so i definitely have a vacuum leak, but where for gods sake WHERE?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Spray things down with carb cleaner - when the engine changes pitch or stumbles you have found a leak. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Any ideas on how to track down a vacuum leak with minimal cost? I checked all the hoses & connections and they look ok, when its at low idle and coasting my brakes barely work so i definitely have a vacuum leak, but where for gods sake WHERE?? It could very well be the vacuum booster for the brakes has popped it's diaphram. Pull the checkvalve out of booster, tape over the end of it real good with some electrical tape, Start engine and check reading on the vac gauge. If it reads better vac, and engine performs better, the diaphram is shot. Time for a new booster.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Lazy Posted February 16, 2008 Author Share Posted February 16, 2008 OK I have found a leak in the vacuum system. It is leaking around a brass fitting that threads into the intake manifold. (Thanks GD for the carb cleaner tip, only 1.99). Now, to fix it should I pull the fitting out and JB weld it back in? Taking it out kinda scares me because I am afraid of doing more harm than good. I was thinking of simply getting some kind of goop (high temp silicone?) and sealing up the outside of the fitting. Does that sound stupid? Any suggestions? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 17, 2008 Share Posted February 17, 2008 unscrew it out of the intake, wrap it with plumbers tape, and reinstall tight, but not forced. Should do the trick. .59 cent roll of plumbers tape FTW! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Lazy Posted February 19, 2008 Author Share Posted February 19, 2008 Of course Gloyale it could NOT be that simple. I took the fitting out and it appears to have been 'engineered'. The threads were worn out. So I went and got a replacement piece (it was a 1/8" brass plumbing fitting) which did not fit back in. I can only assume that the fitting was forced into the manifold. I did put teflon tape around the old fitting and put it back in but it still leaks. I will go to the JY and try to figure out what is supposed to go here sometime next week. in the meantime, if the manifold threads are hosed how do I go about a fix? if anyone has a junk ea82T around I sure would like the fitting, its on the passengers side on the intake manifold between the cylinders and is the most outboard of 2 vacuum hoses here. OH, and Id sure like to know where to get that .59 plumbers tape, mine was like 2.50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 I would think that there would be two choices to fixing this. Both involve pulling the manifold. The first is to get a tap and tap new threads and put a slightly bigger fitting into the manifold. Reason i say remove the manifold is that you dont want all those metal shavings to fall into the intake and get sucked into the engine. The second idea would be to get a junkyard intake. At least that would be my thought process at that point. There is a third possiblity. If its something that you dont need then u could just JB weld the hole shut temporarily until you get another manifold...or until you get around to pulling the maniford to retap the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 if anyone has a junk ea82T around I sure would like the fitting, its on the passengers side on the intake manifold between the cylinders and is the most outboard of 2 vacuum hoses here. I got one at the shop. PM me a shipping address and it' yours. OH, and Id sure like to know where to get that .59 plumbers tape, mine was like 2.50 Old time Hardware store. In one of the plastic candy bowls with little knick knacks by the counter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Lazy Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 Hey Gloyale, Thanks a LOT for offering to send the that vacuum fitting. However, I have already JB welded the one I had back in. I probably couldn't get it back out even if I tried. It's great to know there are people willing to help. BTW your in box is full Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Lazy Posted February 23, 2008 Author Share Posted February 23, 2008 OK I really need some help now. The vacuum leak ended up being a bit larger than i thought, it was a blown intake manifold gasket. I put 2 new ones on using info on other posts here (Wow, Thank God for this site). After a few issues I got the car started and it ran GREAT. I adjusted the idle down a bit after it was warm, took it for a test drive around the block and was very, very happy. Then after I shut if off it refused to start, not a cough, nothing, just turned over. It has good spark and then while i was checking for fuel by pulling the fuel line off, LO and BEhold it started again. Again it ran great for a while, then i turned it off, and guess what, it wont start again. Does anyone have any idea where I should begin looking for this problem? Its hard to believe its not related to the recent intake manifold gaskets but I guess it COULD be. The one thing I know is wrong is that the oil pressure sender wire got broke during this work and CEL is lit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 I'd look for anything that was left diconnected. And read the CEL code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Lazy Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 I'd look for anything that was left diconnected. And read the CEL code. Oh yea I have been looking for something obvious disconnected. Cant seem to find anything. I heard autozone will read codes, so I'm going there today to get it read. The car has been starting now, it just takes a lot of cranking, so its not really a NO start more of a HARD start. Once its running it seems to run great. One thing I am not sure if I put back on correctly is the purge check valve (thats what Haynes calls it), a small one-way valve in the vacuum line that i dont remember which way it came off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 I heard autozone will read codes, so I'm going there today to get it read. Not on this car, you read them yourself. See this site, do not be confused buy the opening line it is for your car http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ also Have a look at the FI coolant sensor connection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Lazy Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 Wow Thanks a Ton Skip. I got code 21 - Coolant temperature sensor or circuit, which is the pic you posted, are you psychic? Only thing is it looks ok and is plugged in. Could it have been tripped by an air bubble in the coolant? Is this the same unit the FSM refers to as the 'Thermometer'? My temp gauge seems to work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 ML, you're most welcome, glad it helped The thermometer is for the dash gauge not the Fuel Injection system (ECU) The contacts in the FI Coolant Sensor corrode, like in the picture. It sits, as you see, vertically. The boot cracks from the heat in this area, water enters and sits in the contact well and well you see the result. Grossgary solders his wires on to prevent this corrosion. Getting the plug off can be a pain, here is how I hold the clip open for removal, it can be tested after getting the connector off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 a small one-way valve in the vacuum line that i dont remember which way it came off. Blow through it. it should only pass air one way. Install it so that air can travel toward the engine. I got code 21 - Coolant temperature sensor or circuit, which is the pic you posted, are you psychic? Only thing is it looks ok and is plugged in. Could it have been tripped by an air bubble in the coolant? Is this the same unit the FSM refers to as the 'Thermometer'? No it' not the thermometer. The *thermometer* is a single pole senor that sends signal to the temp gauge. The computer uses a separate sensor to determine engine temp. It is mounted to the side of the Thermostat housing. It has 2 wires and a green connector.sorry, that's for SPFI. It is on the back of intake where Skips picture shows To test it, unplug it and hook a multimeter to the 2 wires. Set it on 10k or 20k ohms. should read 2-3k ohm when cold. start the car and watch the numbers. Resistance should get lower and lower a the temp rises. You will have to witch to the 1k ohm scale at some point. At fully warmed up, should read 200-500 ohms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Lazy Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 I really appreciate all of your help. To make sure you all know this is an EA82T. I am a little confused about where the coolant temp sensor is. Is it on the goose neck above the thermostat like the SECOND picture or at the rear of the intake manifold like the FIRST pic, (which has the gooseneck labled also)? I took the connector off of the Gooseneck sensor and hot it measured 7.5 ohms, sounds bad huh? I will measure it cool when it cools off. Could I have damaged it by bumping it or something? I did not have a CEL before I put the new intake manifold gaskets on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 I am a little confused about where the coolant temp sensor is. Is it on the goose neck above the thermostat like the SECOND picture or at the rear of the intake manifold like the FIRST pic, (which has the gooseneck labled also)? The thing on top of the *gooseneck* is the Auxillary Air valve. Provides air for High idle during warm up. The connector are for a heating element inside. Heats up a bi-metal spring, which closes a rotary valve. It is placed on top of thermostat so the heat of the engine coolant will help close the valve if element fails. 7.5k ohms resistance sounds fine. FSM just says "other than zero or infinite" I thinks Skips second pic is to show clip removal. CTS resistance should be 2-3k ohms cold, 100-500 engine fully warm. I ussually hook the meter up with clip and start car to watch it go down. Should be very steady. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 Sorry Major, I was just showing how to get the connector off. As G says that is the AAV which has the same type connector and boot. The manifold picture as G points out is correct. Sorry for the corn-fusion, again. The resistance chart is give below if you care to test it. . Bout done trying to help as it seems I muck it up more than help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Lazy Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 Bout done trying to help as it seems I muck it up more than help Skip, Don't be silly, without help I would still be staring at this thing with wrenches in one hand and a beer (Rolling Rock btw ) in the other. You've been great, particularly with code reading. thx SUCCESS! I took the correct connector off, and the leads were all GREEN from corrosion. I sandpapered them off and BLAMMO! the car starts right up, and the CEL even went off. USMB and Smart helpful peeps FTW! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Skip, SUCCESS! I took the correct connector off, and the leads were all GREEN from corrosion. I sandpapered them off and BLAMMO! the car starts right up, and the CEL even went off. USMB and Smart helpful peeps FTW! sweet!!! FYI, Rolling Rock was purchased by Anheiser Busch about 2 years ago. It's now brewed in giant stainless tanks like everything else. The "glass lined tanks of Old Latrobe" are no more. That bit is still on the bottle, but now has Quotation mark around it, and says "in the tradition of". This means it's just a slogan now, not a statement of fact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Thanks for the FYI G. Notice the "EX -home" We brew Sam Adams now in the glass lined tanks with mountian spring water. FYI we also lost Mr. Rodgers but not to AB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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