glwagonman Posted February 6, 2008 Author Share Posted February 6, 2008 Now we are getting somewhere. 1. Get some brake cleaner or carb cleaner. Spray all around the carb - at the base, the throttle shafts, etc. If you hear the engine change pitch (RPM increase) then you have a leak near the location of the spray. Fix any leaks you find. Trace as much of the vacuum line system as you can. 2. Look down the carb throat while revving the engine. Use a flashlight if you need to. Pay special attention to the spray pattern of the primary and secondary jets. You should see a fairly even spray pattern. If it's dribbling, or not spraying evenly this will need to be addressed with a carb tear down. Make sure the accelerator pump isn't leaking and is pumping fuel each time you rotate the throttle. 3. Check the operation of the distributor vacuum advance pot. Hook a section of vacuum line to the pot and suck on it. It should move the advance plate inside the disty and it should HOLD it there if you pinch the line while sucking on it. If it bleeds down faster than 10 seconds or so, the diaphragm is shot. 4. Verify the timing is set to about 8 degree's BTDC. You can use a timing light, but you can also just set it static when the engine isn't running. Verify TDC on #1 using a drinking straw. When the timing marks come up on the flywheel, both valves are closed (you'll feel air escaping with your finger), and the straw says it's at TDC, align the timing mark with 8 degrees BTDC, and then move the distributor till it's pointing directly at the #1 plug wire tower. This will be close enough to 8 degrees if you are careful. I'm usually within a half of a degree if not dead nuts on 8. 5. Check for slop in the timing belts. They get loose as they stretch and allow the timing to jump all over the place. They should be adjusted if you don't remember the last time it was done. Or just replaced if you don't remember the last time that was done either. Make sure the crank sprockets are on in the correct order (the one with the groove in the back goes next to the crank seal). Beyond that how is the idle speed? Overall running of the engine? Does it miss and stumble? Does it accelerate smoothly with apparent power? Are there dead spots in the throttle? If so where? The amount of mileage loss you are describing could only be attributed to a number of problems occuring simultaneously. Start adjusting and ruling out things one by one. At the end of the day you may need to rebuild that carb. I've done plenty of Hitachi's and they are no picknik to rebuild. The biggest source of problems I had when rebuilding them was problematic cheap rebuild parts. Most especially the float needles and seats. Buy the highest quality rebuild parts you can get. Weber's are decent. But they can be a pain to tune at times, and they require seasonal tuning. They have a tendancy to bog out on hard cornering, or severe off-angle running unless the float is set in a posistion that is not desireable for decent mileage. The far better option is SPFI - especially for you as your EA82 is already setup for it. It's basically a bolt-on and crimp some wireing. The cost is generally less than a Weber with all the performance and none of the drawbacks. It does, however, require about 150% more labor to install. A couple weekends anyway if you haven't done it before. Straight Weber swaps can be done in a day, maybe two if you have all the right stuff. Still I prefer the SPFI having run multiple vehicles with both. GD Thank you very much for this useful info im going to check it all out in the morning and im very interested in how you can switch it to SPFI i would love to do that to my car so Thank you very much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 Thank you very much for this useful info im going to check it all out in the morning and im very interested in how you can switch it to SPFI i would love to do that to my car so Thank you very much Ask and ye shall...... http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html There's a link at the bottom to a write up by snowman that deals specifically with the EA82 - which is far easier than the EA81 to convert. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glwagonman Posted February 6, 2008 Author Share Posted February 6, 2008 well i found my vacuum leak on the solenoid valve right behind the carburetor the little plastic nipple broke off and the hose was just hanging dos anybody know where i can find one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 Junk yard. Or just figure out what it's for and perhaps you can either bypass it or disable it. Is it a thermo-vacuum valve? What valve is it, and what is it's function? You'll have to trace the vacuum lines to figure out what it's doing. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glwagonman Posted February 7, 2008 Author Share Posted February 7, 2008 Junk yard. Or just figure out what it's for and perhaps you can either bypass it or disable it. Is it a thermo-vacuum valve? What valve is it, and what is it's function? You'll have to trace the vacuum lines to figure out what it's doing. GD the valve im talking about is right behind the carburetor and it has a a blue and black wire with a two pronged connector two hoses hook up to it one going straight back and one to the right(looking from the front of the car) and on the diagram on the hood it say its solenoid valve 4 i started the car without it and it would not idle so i plugged up the tubes and it idles normally i just hope its not bad for the car im going to try and get to the junk yard this weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 Unfortunately that tells me nothing. I need to know where the hoses go (IE: what they connect to) to get a feeling for what it is. There's too many variations on the carb models to give an idea of that it is. It could affect driveability, or not - depending on what it does. But it's unlikely in any event that it will actually cause harm if it's disconnected. There's very few things (if any) carb related that if disconnected could actually damage your engine. Most will just run like poop. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glwagonman Posted February 7, 2008 Author Share Posted February 7, 2008 OK i looked where they go the one that goes straight back goes right into the intake manifold and the one going right goes to the bowl vacuum valve and then to the carburetor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyro926 Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 Check the choke. Mine was doing the same thing. Had really black sooty plugs. Opened up the choke and now it runs fine. Just need to figure out how to adjust the choke now. Best of luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd45 Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 replace choke with a manual, mine runs much better now. I also know that when I pull the cable, the choke is open, no question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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