i've wondered since buying the hatch why nothing lined up between what my engine and its components should be and what they are. while replacing the front axles i found one of those little circular "void if removed" tags with the heat sensitive adhesive commonly found on used replacement long blocks that have a warranty.

 

i found a place on the dist that looked like where the tag came from, but i'm not sure what that is cuz the tag actually came off the rear of the pass side crankcase half. the fractures in the adhesives match perfectly.

 

another way to tell that this engine is from a used engine store comes from the tell tale damage to the oil pan. i pulled the skid plate today and noticed the oil pan looks like hell - dents, scrapes, etc. this engine was obviously dragged around like a dead body.

 

so, i deduced that the damage caused to the stud hole in my driver side head occured while the engine was out on the floor being dragged around (cuz dead bodies don't feel a thing, right?).

 

i wondered for the life of me what could have damaged that hole in such a way as to leave the threads stripped, the hole widened at the end, and the mating surface distorted while not damaging anything else in the vicinity. finding out that the engine came from a used parts barn explains everything.

 

well, the aluminum is splitting around the outter edge of the bolt hole and i don't feel like going through the motions of aluminum repair. if i can find a head cheap enough, i'm going to replace it.

 

since i know there's positively NO ea81's in any jy's around here, i'm at the mercy of you folks on this one. anyone got a cheap driver side head for a solid lifter ea81?

 

also, i figure i'll rebuild both of the heads that end up going back on. any recommendations or helpful info for these subaru heads?

Hi This is Jerry, i just look but i don't have a head but i do have a good oil pan offer me something for it. Thanks Jerry

This is the thing that JB weld was made for. Or if you want to go hardcore and do it up right, the DevCon line of metal filler's and putty's are excelent and much higher quality than JB.

 

Replacing parts is easy, but fixing parts is more rewarding and takes more skill. Don't throw it away just because there's a little gouge in the exhaust mating surface and you need to heli-coil a stud. That's just silly.

 

Fix it, learn something in the process, and don't be like the rest of our throw away, instant gratification society.

 

GD

i looked up a product called aluma-weld. its aluminum braze welding rods. i know a professional welder and i'm wondering if rather than jb welding it (i know that's the kinda stuff jb is for but i just don't like jb) i can fill it completely, then redrill and tap it to the original stud size.

 

i don't like simply throwing things away either and even if i replace the head in the interest of getting this damn thing done already i'll keep the old head and fix it for a spare. i've just spent too much time on this car already so i'd really like to just bolt another up and move on for now.

If you know a professional welder, have them puddle alloy into the hole, re-drill and tap - if you want to use the aluma-weld stuff all you need is a propane torch. No matter what you do, douche out the hole really well - it's got to be sparkling clean for the alloy (whatever type) to bond correctly - on - and don't clean out the old threads - they'll provide grip when you re-fill the hole.

 

Another option might be to go with an oversized stud - just re-tap the hole to the next size up - less involved than filling, drilling and tapping.

I believe what he's saying is that the head casting is cracked away from the stud hole. This is way worse than the normal stripped stud hole. There is no clamping strength left in the split hole, where as a stripped hole can be tapped and helicoiled and have the origional strength.

 

You can weld the whole area in, then center and redrill a hole. This is a PITA with the head in the car, as you will be welding above you. So you would remove the head to weld it on the bench. Or, you can get another used head, and with less work just swap them out.

If you are set on replacement and are considerring rebuilding them you should contact Delta camshafts. They have started a line of rebuilt heads. Very nice work and a much better way to go than finding a good used head.

i'll give delta camshaft a call, but i don't expect that option to be economically feasible. i can't imagine that reman'd heads would be cheaper that finding a replacement head, having the machine work done locally and rebuilding them myself. maybe easier and faster but if the price is too high its just not an option.

 

i found some stuff online called HTS-2000 that claims to be a stronger reapir than tig welding or any other alloy brazing rod on the market. its $65 for a pound, 34 rods. after that and a $75 fel-pro head set this may be my cheapest repair and after the time it'll take to find the right head at the right price this may be my best bet all around.

 

i guess i'm glad i'm finding all these things while doing this spfi conversion but this is sure getting frustrating!!

91loyale's got the point right on. if i just rip out the helicoil that's there now, drill and retap i'll have to stick a monstrous stud in there!!! also, i need to fill the cracks either way (there's two stress cracks off the rim of the hole from the stud being yanked sideways).

Where abouts in Cali are you located. I have an '83 Engine thats blown a HG but got good heads.

modesto. is "gold country" in tuolumne county?