newsoobdude

JEBUS!!! This is gonna be awsome! DEFINATELY gonna need the D/r. That or loose the 3rd pedal . 28" Tires with an EL headered EJ25 does not climb anything in low RPS. That is the ONE thing lacking in my Outback and I don't have the funds to get one shipped from Down Under and want to keep the AWD aspect so no EA82 5spd swap either.

Been a long while USMB. Good to be back in the Pancake World again. Posted this in the Newer Subie Section as well as the last time I visited this sub section did not exist that I noticed. Picking up an EJ18 for my 82 BRAT today and want to know what to check for and change out (1) before firing up since its been sitting for a few years and (2) what should I address while out before dropping into my BRAT? I am gonna change the fluids and WD the cylinders and hand turn a few times before intitial firing but what else should I address? Any help appreciated and good to be back

Long time no visit USMB!!! Bee away for a while but trying to get back in on the Subie fun. Picking up a 95 with an EJ18 that has been sitting for a few years and am wondering what I should check for before firing it up. Im gonna change the fluids and am not worried about ANYTHING other than the motor (being put into my 82 BRAT ). But just wondering what I should check before putting into 82 and firing up). I know its a "stupid question" but every engine style is different and have their quirks and figured I'd ask the ones with the specific knowledge and experience. Any help would be appreciated and its nice to be back in the Subie world.

So I did a compression test and found out the #4 cylinder was down on compression so I pulled the engine and replaced it with the one from my 86. Still didn't want to run right so I decided to put a Weber on it and now the rpms race at start up after back firing a couple times through the carb itself. Now what? Tried searching but didn't find anything useful in the couple searches I tried. Any help would be appreciated as I'm about to give up and give it to a mechanic to play with even though I cannot afford it.

Just trying to figure out what manual transmissions interchange with my Legacy. Most Subies in my neck of the woods are autocrapics so wondering what years Impezas, Foresters, Leagacies manual transmissions interchange without modification.

Doing a Weber swap on my 82 BRAT and getting ready to take it for a drive soon. Waiting on the IM gaskets from Subie to show up to I can reinstall the IM after pulling all the extra hard lines off. Then it's time for a frame install if all goes well .

I've got a 98 Outback and one of the best improvements I did was the snorkus delete. It's free and lets the car pull all the way to red line instead of falling on it's face around 3500. All you do is pull the contraption in the inner fender well of the passenger side that all the fresh air comes in from. Another is OBX Equal Length headers. I'm running 28 inch tires under my Outback and it has more power know than before I lifted it and put the bigger tires. Wish I had done it before the lift so I could have played in the corners beforehand. Grimmspeed made intake manifold spacers to keep the intake cooler and they also offer a thermal coating (I don't have yet). Group A did a throttle body spacer but are no longer produced but someone else might be. You can get a cold air intake off e-bay for an Imprza RS and cut it down to fit also. Other than that you are looking at cams from Delta and some port and light polishing work. IF I remember right, Delta can redo your heads and improved cams and porting all for a great price and all you have to do is re-bolt the heads on, no cam lash adjusting or any of that stuff.

Got the rack replaced and dealt with more fun (see my other thread) but finally got her ready for an alignment and will deal with the radio drain another day.

Alright so I replaced the starter with yet another one from the 'Zone and ran the + Cable to the post and the solenoid wire (the only 2 wires that were connected since I know of [didn't remove a 3rd that I can recall and I haven't gotten all goobered up recently soo.....idk]) and ran a nice fat cable from the upper bolt to the battery and went to start it. Fired right up!!! :headbang: Went to go tighten the battery up and realized I forgot to hook the ground up soo, idk again, but, ran it to the battery anyways since it was long enough. It's off to the alignment shop via flatbed and I finally moved the steering wheel over a tooth to straighten it out .

Jarl, there was only two wires going to the starter, a heavy gauge from the positive side of the battery terminal and one smaller (12g?) that came from the firewall and had a spade connector end on it. Both OEM or quality replacement (think I replaced positive cable couple years back but not sure and not important). No other wires to or from the starter so you got me there..... Don't recall ever seeing a starter with 3 wires but it's been long while since I've changed out a starter and this 98 Outback is the newest car I've really worked on. Also don't have good access to a computer as my lap top top a dump on me again and I gotta get that fixed too Suba9792, OEM? And if do, what gauge should it be and where does it connect on the block? 1 Lucky Texan, unfortunately I don't have any good friends local nor are my neighbors able to help and I also pulled the starter out so I can replace it with the new one when it comes in on Thurs. That and the alignment is all buggered up and loose as I'm getting it flat-bedded to the alignment shop once it runs again as it has a new rack under it now (one of the reasons it was down for so long was getting the funds and time to take care of that). Looks like it will have to wait til I get back from the ranch this weekend:(.

So my 98 Outback has been down for a while now trying to get fixed. Replaced my steering rack after a few weeks of waiting for funds and then the car would not start. Replaced the alternator as previously mentioned in another post. Also replaced my battery and starter due to both being dead. Now the car cranks over twice and NOTHING more. Better than the nothing before. Mind you when it comes to electrical work I release the smoke from the wires so I don't play unless I have to. Went to replace my e-bay special grounding kit but do not remember what all grounds were originally on the car before. I have the ground from the battery going to the body but, is there any place else that I need to ground? One guy said my re-manned starter is no good and to replace it with yet another one . Of course being in LA there are no Outbacks or anything to look at to compare and I really don't have the money to be dumping into this to guess what it could be. ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated. I did have an FSM but my computer crashed and took it with it and the Chiltons/ Haynes are special order for Subarus in LA.

Where abouts in LA? There is one is Chatsworth that I know of but never dealt with them or anyone else locally. Check nasioc and see what they say as they have an LA area and deal mainly in Impreza's/ WRXs.

I have a 2.5 and am running a 2 1/4" exhaust. Will be going down to a 2 inch pipe after an EL Header swap down the road. 2 1/4" Exhaust flows nice and runs great but I don't have low end torque. I should have gone 2" . I don't know if Grimmspeed is still making manifold spacers for the 22 but they sure are nice to have if you have the extra 10mm of space above (haven't done nor seen an EJ swap yet that wasn't lifted). I know 1 7/8 pipe is good for an EA but not sure on the EJ and didn't keep the OEM exhaust nor measure it when I replaced it.

Cannot wait for this to come out. Looks like it's got a nice little lift. Wonder what colors it will come in. Would like to one of the AMT kits too.

You could use the 5th gear out of a same gen regular Legacy L or GT as well. Don't think any mods necessary ether but don't quote me. IF I remember right, the only difference is the 5th gear set and diff gear itself between the Outback and Legacies. The Outback got the higher 5th gear set to compensate for the larger tires. You could go down to the 3.9 diff, but then you gotta change out the rear too and from what I gather you would not be a happy camper. You can also swap out to the 4.44 diff from the automatics but that's going the other direction.

I have a 2.5 and am running a 2 1/4" exhaust. Will be going down to a 2 inch pipe after an EL Header swap down the road. 2 1/4" Exhaust flows nice and runs great but I don't have low end torque with the OEM Y pipe and free flow exhaust (removed last cat/ resonator). I should have gone 2" . I don't know if Grimmspeed is still making manifold spacers for the 22 but they sure are nice to have if you have the extra 10mm of space above (haven't done nor seen an EJ swap yet that wasn't lifted). I know 1 7/8 pipe is good for an EA but not sure on the EJ and didn't keep the OEM exhaust nor measure it when I replaced it.

Swapped carbs on the 2 BRATs I have down here and now just have to swap the tires and SMOG then finally legal :banana:. Hoping by Memorial Day weekend.

Got a bug up in me and decided to swap the carb from the 86 BRAT to the 82. Runs like a top and is nice and quiet. Was going to take her for a maden voyage around the block or few but had to go run errands instead. Hopefully after work tomorrow I'll have the tires swapped out and take her for a spin. Then to sneak past the check point and call it a (legal) day and get ready for the lift. Will be getting a Weber still but will wait til I get the 81 here Memorial Day weekend and start swapping the goods from the 86 over.

Well I pulled the inner boot off the tie rod and got a bunch of oil dumped on me. So much for just replacing the tie rod. Now I gotta get the funds together to replace the whole rack and have it done by Rainy Thursday but won't be able to order the rack for a couple weeks. Joy oh joy. Now to decide whether to go quick ratio or keep it stock. Also found my multimeter fried so so much for doing the wiring instead.

I jacked the front end of my car up and locked the steering column. Passenger side nice and tight, no movement. Drivers tire is able to move 2 inches side to side. While moving the tire I checked to see what was letting it move; inner tie rod is the culprit. Optima lasted not even 2 years, but my warranty is from my ORIGINAL red top that I got in 2005, even though that only lasted 6 months and was upgraded to a blue top they kept the warranty under the red top due to the upgrade/ exchange. 1 Lucky Texan, I've heard a LOT of good things about the O'Reilly battery and actually had one for the 86 that lasted a good 6 years as a back up and generator battery. My finances are kind of tight and I got hooked up on a new replacement battery from my father. If I had the cash, I'd get an Odyssey and call it a day.

Had to rebuild the front caliper on the drivers side as it was sticking and flushed the hydraulic system the other weekend. Still having issues with the Craptachi so I'm saving for a Weber as I have a friend who can sneak me by the SMOG Nazis check point. Hoping to have that done by end of next month when I bring my 81 down to keep from being eaten by rodents. I'm pulling the drivetrain from my 86 for the 81, otherwise I'd use the Craptachi off the 86 for it. Still gotta finish making the lift for it but might wait or down size to a 2inch instead of the 4, IDK. Been dealing with a lot of personal issues so this is lagging worse than I hoped. Finally got the back registration taken care of and it's now finally legally mine. Got gotta get through the checkpoint before I can drive er though. Summertime maybe...........

Noticed a clunk in the front end a little while back and recently noticed a minute jolt in the steering wheel when turning. Tie rod on the drivers side has a whole lotta slop in it so ordered up a replacement and plan on tackling that this weekend. Might get my wheel centered finally. Also discovered after replacing a bad battery (Optima is finally GONE :banana:)at the beginning of the year and then having my alternator go last month that I now have a parasitic drain through my hardwired radio . Not looking forward to figuring that one out as it's through the factory harness, might just bypass it and run completely seperate from the OEM harness. Power wire disconnected for the time being and battery on charger. Saving up for a Weber for my 82 BRAT as I'm tired of dealing with the Craptachi and I found a hookup to sneak me through the SMOG ************ checkpoint.

I also would like to know why the SOHC intake. Nice looking ride, love the exhaust stack and paint job. What size tubing did you use for your snorkel? And what did it do to your performance?