OK - it's a 10mm but what thread?

 

Bolts out of the "standard puller kit" - 10x1.5 don't seem to fit (or at least I can't screw them into the holes in the damper).

 

Thanks for the help in advance

i gues you are talking about the harmonic balancer pulley on the crank. i couln't see or find any existing threads on the pulley, so i made my own.

 

i don't know the size, but i guesstimated the size using a mounting bolt from the alt or power steering, went to the hardware store and bought several taps (non-metric) with different thread sizes. turns out i got it right on my first try. bolt size was a very close match and the puller i 'borrowed' from autozone had both thread sizes. kept the one i used and returned the other taps.

most of the threads on these things are 1.25 pitch - so 10 x 1.25 is your animal.

oh well - I guess it is NOT threaded. Use a 3 jaw puller?

Mine comes off with a tap from a soft mallet, and twisting my mouth the right way.

oh well - I guess it is NOT threaded. Use a 3 jaw puller?

 

 

Mine took a bit of wigglin, but came off pretty easy by hand. Otherwise, yes a three jaw puller would do it provided you have enough room. I really shouldn't put up much of a fight.

 

Will-

 

edit - IT, it really shouldn't put up much of a fight! I would put up a fight:LOL:

No way should you need a puller. The EJ dampers are not a press fit they just slide on.

Are you trying to remove the balancer? Hit it on both edges left and right side with a mallet. It should just slide off.

If it is hard to remove, the common issue is rust between the pulley and crank snout. Even a little bit of rust will make it hard to get off. On my '96 it was like this. I let some Kroil seep in there, and then kept tapping it with a plastic faced hammer and eventually she let loose.

Otherwise, yes a three jaw puller would do it provided you have enough room.

 

Don't use a 3 jaw. You could damage the edge and end up affecting the belt.

 

It' not a press fit. should slide of by hand with enough wiggling and tapping.

Some reports have surfaced of the damper

being held on with locktite. This

due to the crankshaft bolt coming loose problem .

 

Gentle propane torch heat may help

CAREFUL of the rubber isolation ring!!

Don't use a 3 jaw. You could damage the edge and end up affecting the belt.

 

It' not a press fit. should slide of by hand with enough wiggling and tapping.

 

 

Assuming the puller is used properly, how does this damage the edge? I'm not contradicting, I've just never noticed anything in the past.

 

thanks!

 

Will-

Assuming the puller is used properly, how does this damage the edge? I'm not contradicting, I've just never noticed anything in the past.

 

thanks!

 

Will-

 

 

It can bend the edge where the jaws are pulling. Especailly old tyle v-pulleys. I guess an EJ pulley could handle it, mostly because they should pull right off and not need tons of force.

I have to agree with G

 

If the pulley is "lockite"d on and a puller is used

 

could the rubber isolation section of the damper

be put at risk?

 

The locktite mentioned here was in a post on the

pulley coming loose and being put back on

with the keyway a bit knackered.

 

I agree will all who say it should not

be that hard to get off as there is only about 0.500"

of crank in the pulley hub.

 

as seen here

could the rubber isolation section of the damper

be put at risk?

 

 

I missed this part entirely when I had mine off, I don't remember there being any rubber on the thing. Granted, I didn't really scrutinize the thing other then to check the keyway for nicks. Is mine missing something that it should have?

 

How's about a pic:popcorn:

 

Thanks!

 

Will-

Snow worries Will

 

The black ring in this shot of th harmonic damper,

an extremely knackered damper at that

 

Snow worries Will

 

The black ring in this shot of th harmonic damper,

an extremely knackered damper at that

 

 

 

Huh... yep, totally missed that. 'Prolly covered by grit/dust/whatever.

 

So is it like an engine mount in that the pulley is two pieces that are bonded/captured by the rubber ring?

Will, I would assume so, I seem to remember

someone's "coming apart at the seems"

Will, I would assume so, I seem to remember

someone's "coming apart at the seems"

 

 

Hmm... I do believe the next time I'm at the JY I'll have to look for one so I can saw it half and have a looksiezzz

seems I've spelled "seams" incorrectly?

 

The pictured pulley is what happens when the bolt

is not tight enough (incorrect torque given in FSM).

 

The pulley slips, the keyway key machines the pulley,

and well... it don't charge or have

power steering afterwards.

 

The key is pretty toast to, imagine that!

 

For the life of me I can't figure out why only 0.500" proturde

into the pulley. When the bolt gets loose the pulley

wobbles and takes it's self out.

 

Word has it the keyway and key only locate the pulley.

It is kept from slipping mostly by the torque of the bolt

causing the friction factor from the abutting surfaces.

 

Thus coating these surfaces (shaft, back of the pulley, and

the side's of the bolt's washer) with lockite

provides some extra "locking".

 

This could be what has the AE's pulley stuck on.

just whacked it a few times with a rubber hammer and it came off.

 

Should have tapped the holes in the pulley before I put it back on - but managed to torque the bolt to 75 anyway.

 

Do a couple more of these and I'll be an "expert"

keep torqueing at 75 ft-lb and you will be doing more

 

as mentioned

 

the tirque is wrong

it should be 125 ft lbs

 

please search the subject for verification.

I guess that's what I get for reading Chilton's - it said 75

you're welcome?

 

hope it prevents a future problem

like the pulley I pictured

sorry, it's just my gruff nature.

 

thanks - now I get to go back and tighten it up (again) - just more difficult with the fans in