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Water pump diagnosis ?

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I have searched the thread and can't see an answer to what is probably a really simple question to you in the know.

 

How can I tell if my water pump is leaking?

 

My car (87 RX) began leaking coolant a couple of days ago. I can't tell where its coming from. It is dripping down from the timing belt covers, which are below the water pump. In addition there is a bit of noise at idle (light grinding..?). Coolant does NOT appear to be coming out of the weephole on top of the pump. I replaced the intake manifold gaskets about a week ago, but I cant find anything left loose. The previous owner had removed the AC unit from the car and as a result I have 2 ALT belts. In retrospect could this have placed additional stress on the Water pump? The pump shaft does not have play in it like previous water pump failures I have seen (ford). so...Is there any trick to determine exact point of leakage?

 

No overheating, trying to keep it that way

 

Thanks,

Lazy

It's often the seals that go first - if they go unoticed then the bearings go. You have probably caught it prior to bearing failure.

 

There are two weep holes - one on the top of the pump, and one on the bottom. The top one never leaks - it's always the bottom one. Remove the timing belt covers and inspect the pump housing for evidence if coolant tracking/caking around the hole.

 

Also check the heater core bypass hose on top of the pump. The nipple on the pump, and especially the one on the bypass tube that it connects to like to rot out, and people neglect to change this hose, or to change the cooant that protects against corrosion. I've seen them leak, and I've seen them blow out. Be sure to change it if you determine the pump is bad.

 

GD

In addition there is a bit of noise at idle (light grinding..?).

 

With a warm / operating temperature engine:

Remove the V-belt/s. Start engine. See if noise is still there. IF it is, check your timing belt idlers. Now.

 

 

There is also an O-ring on the water pump input (steel tube) pipe where it enters the pump. I have seen that leak.

  • Author
With a warm / operating temperature engine:

Remove the V-belt/s. Start engine. See if noise is still there. IF it is, check your timing belt idlers. Now.

 

 

There is also an O-ring on the water pump input (steel tube) pipe where it enters the pump. I have seen that leak.

 

well, I took the vbelt off and the noise stopped, so its either the water pump or the alt. I am going to replace the water pump. I also plan to make a weekend of it and do the timing belts. I was going to do the tensioners too but NAPA wants $100 per side (yea, $300 for a kit). I have looked around USMB and found some other things I may want to do while i have the radiator out, like the oil pump seal & gasket. So i have some questions (yea, me questions, go figure)

 

*Is there really a need to replace the tensioners?

*Any suggestions on any other items to check/replace while working on the

t-belts?

 

Thx

*Is there really a need to replace the tensioners?

*Any suggestions on any other items to check/replace while working on the

t-belts?

 

The tensioners and the idler have small ball bearings in them. They are good for a little longer than the belts, but not twice the belts. Many years ago, I rebuilt the brakets so I could use standard ball bearings with contact seals - about $6.00 each.

 

Oil pump seal & front main are worth checking. Take a good look at the cam seals and the o-rings for the seal holders. If there's oil all around there, might as well do them too.

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