Looks like the drivers side switch for the drivers window might be going bad. Window will not go down sometimes when the switch is pressed, and will not go up unless you move the switch up and down.

 

Can anyone walk me through accessing the switch cluster and possibly offer any helpful hints? Do you have to replace all 4 switches in a cluster or are they independent?

If it's similar to the Impreza - on the IMP - it's a SINGLE SWITCH CLUSTER - all at once, YMMV

 

take off the surround around the inside door handle

 

take out the screw holding the the "cup" to the door - in the bottom of the cup - it's what you pull on to close the door (Phillips #2)

 

Pull out the "push in" plastic fasteners thru the door covering into the metal of the door. (1/4 inch flat driver or 1 inch putty knife)

 

now, loosen the bottom of the door panel and work it free up the edges. Eventually it will all come loose (plastic push in fasteners plus a couple of "keyhole" move "up" to seat, down to "unseat" plastic clips - you'll understand what I meant after you look at it)

 

Now - don't pull it off (there's wiring to the switches in there. Move it away from the metal and look at the switch plugs - they release by pushing a clip at the top and disconnect "easily" - I had to use a small screwdriver (SMALL - maybe 1/8 inch wide flat) to depress the clip. I was working PAX door on the IMP, so there might be more than one disconnect. Once you have the plugs out, you can take the panel elsewhere to finish the job

 

I didn't go into the switch (I was doing a door handle and fixing the window - which wouldn't go down because some nimnoe left a FLASHLIGHT IN THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR!! so you are on your own as far as actually pulling out the switch pack. IF it's anything like the door latch, look for a surround as well, but be careful, don't break the surround)

 

reassemble in the reverse order and watch the fit-up of the door panel upper surface to the door - it was a bit tight and had to line up "just so" to make it all fit back together

 

Now, if you need "practice" - go find a junkyard and take one out THERE first. save all the "junk" pieces and the screws in case you lose one

 

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?subcat=Window%2C+Switches has the switch listing so you can see what switches interchange

Once out, you can carefully disassemble the offending switch, and clean it, they are quite "cleanable".

Thanks for the replies, I'm going to look the door over carefully to size up the fasteners etc.

 

Holy crap, $104 for a switch cluster!! Looks like I'll attempt the cleaning route first.

I replaced that switch on my '00 OBW a year ago. P/N 83071AE01B $85.61 from www.subarugenuineparts.com

They are really easy to clean and rebuild.

 

nipper

I think there is also an electrical connection to a light in the lower corner of the door, so go easy in removing the door panel. As others have said, the switch is pretty easy to clean and reassemble.

WARNING: DO ALL REPAIR WORK IN A SAFE AREA. There are some really tiny pieces to these switches once you open them up. I did my repair over a gravel driveway and spent the greatrest part of the repair time using a magnet finding lost parts!

The switch in question controls the drivers window only, and is in the drivers door cluster of 4 switches.

 

The window goes down OK, but the switch is "positional" coming back up, meaning you have to find a "sweet spot" to move the window back up. Usually this takes multiple attempts.

 

With these symptoms, would I be able to repair the switch by taking it apart?

 

I've looked at the door and can only find 3 screw covers for screws holding the door panel in place. One by the inside latch release lever, one on the front of the arm rest and one toward the front of the door. Once these are removed does the door panel just get gently pried out with a screwdriver or scraper?

Cleaning the switch contacts will most likely fix the trouble.

The switch in question controls the drivers window only, and is in the drivers door cluster of 4 switches.

 

The window goes down OK, but the switch is "positional" coming back up, meaning you have to find a "sweet spot" to move the window back up. Usually this takes multiple attempts.

 

With these symptoms, would I be able to repair the switch by taking it apart?

 

I've looked at the door and can only find 3 screw covers for screws holding the door panel in place. One by the inside latch release lever, one on the front of the arm rest and one toward the front of the door. Once these are removed does the door panel just get gently pried out with a screwdriver or scraper?

 

yes and no (remember, I was working on an IMPREZA)

 

The panel has a couple of strange fasteners on the inside of the panel that appear to lock going "up", so maybe it's a matter of loosening all of the plastic pop-ins and moving the panel downward about an inch or so to let the "hole" line up with the fastener (instead of the "slot" - you'll understand after you get it off)

 

It seemed like it all had to be loose before it would slide out (and even at that I think I just rattled it around until it came free - I didn't really investigate WHY it came out the way it did) I forgot about the screw in front of the door handle until you mentioned it. The rest of them were the "plastic push pin" variety

 

Getting those metal "fingers" at the top of the door panel aligned for re-installation was, I suspect just a matter of "luck" - keep trying, it will work (putting it back on)

yes and no (remember, I was working on an IMPREZA)

 

The panel has a couple of strange fasteners on the inside of the panel that appear to lock going "up", so maybe it's a matter of loosening all of the plastic pop-ins and moving the panel downward about an inch or so to let the "hole" line up with the fastener (instead of the "slot" - you'll understand after you get it off)

 

It seemed like it all had to be loose before it would slide out (and even at that I think I just rattled it around until it came free - I didn't really investigate WHY it came out the way it did) I forgot about the screw in front of the door handle until you mentioned it. The rest of them were the "plastic push pin" variety

 

Getting those metal "fingers" at the top of the door panel aligned for re-installation was, I suspect just a matter of "luck" - keep trying, it will work (putting it back on)

 

Thanks, I'm still in the "size-up" phase of the project if you will, trying to anticipate problems and get answers ahead of time.

 

The goal for today is to change the fluid in the front and rear differentials and maybe do the first of three drain/refills on the ATF.

I just looked at my 2000 Legacy and if I rmember correctly, there may be another screw behind the curb light at the corner of the door.