replacing the cv on a 1994 legacy wagon and the axle nut does not have a cotter pin rather an indent on the nut that matched on the bolt how do i get this thing off!!!!

replacing the cv on a 1994 legacy wagon and the axle nut does not have a cotter pin rather an indent on the nut that matched on the bolt how do i get this thing off!!!!

 

Just pretend it's not there. As you loosen the nut, it will disappear.

Just pretend it's not there. As you loosen the nut, it will disappear.

i have tried to lossen it with a breaker bar but it won't budge, should i just keep putting pb bolt blaster on it till it comes

You'll probably never loosen it with just a breaker bar. Need an impact wrench or add about another 4 feet to the bar you are using.

 

Edit: Sometimes, even using a 5 foot cheater bar, I still have to stand on the end of the bar to break that nut loose.

what if i use a torch to heat it up?

you can also straigthen out the "dent" on the axle nut; use a punch, or screw driver, needle nose pliers, etc... and try to straighten the dent. But yeah, you need a high quality breaker bar, with a cheater pipe. If you have el cheapo tools, you will probably end up breaking your tools before you break the nut loose, left sides are usually tighter than nuts on the passenger side.

......thats what ive always done......tap that thing out with a punch.....you usually get a new nut anyways with the new axle.....so if u destroy it no big as long as it comes off......

32mm socket.

 

have someone sit in the car and hold the brakes on hard

 

24 inch breaker bar and about 75 pounds CCW load (stand on the breaker bar??) - that will make 150ft lbs - and if it doesn't loosen up, push HARDER!! or get an extension pipe to go over the breaker

 

the detent disappears (gets rounded out to a circle) and the NUT COMES OFF (brute force WORKS)

 

NO TORCH!! NO TORCH!!

 

IT CANNOT BE ON THAT TIGHT!! Maybe I'm just "larger" than some of you others out there

 

2 ft bar and step on it and it sees 500 ft lbs on the nut

ok got that mo fo off finally thanks guys and i didn't use a torch ha

hehe glad you got it off. I unstake the nut first; seems to make it a little easier to loosen.

 

This was a no go:

 

However with my little helper added on the axle nut was helpless to resist:

Hey Porcupine, I never thought of locking that rotor down like you did in your picture, I will remember that.

Also a few weeks back you wanted to know if the crows feet that came with the Harbor Freight inner tie rod remover would fit the subaru tie rods, yes they have one in that set that fits my 97 Legacy wagon.

me and my buddy had to use a length of subaru exhast pipe and hang from it, as a last resort.

 

see this video!

 

I did both CV shafts on my 95 a few months back. The toughest part of that whole job was getting that freaking nut off to get the job started!

 

I went to Lowe's and bought a 4' length of steel pipe and slid it over my breaker bar's handle like the pic on the previous page. I got it, but it still wasn't easy. I used two whole month's quota of cuss words on just one side...

Hey Porcupine, I never thought of locking that rotor down like you did in your picture, I will remember that.

Also a few weeks back you wanted to know if the crows feet that came with the Harbor Freight inner tie rod remover would fit the subaru tie rods, yes they have one in that set that fits my 97 Legacy wagon.

 

Thanks for the tie rod tool info! I ordered that set from HF and it has arrived! Now I just need to get enough Subaru bucks to get the tie rod ends.

 

I think I saw the method of blocking the rotor with a small pry bar in the service manual. It worked very well, the bar slides right down in the rotor vanes and the caliper bracket is more than stout enough to take the abuse. Actually that is a HF pry bar, and the top snapped off it the first time I tried this. It is a brittle steel that looks weird when it fractures.

is the same school as "If it don't fit get a bigger hammer?" <ducking and running>