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On my 98 OBW, I had trans bind issues and put in the FWD fuse a year ago. Things were fine but I had a good mechanic look and he stated that the back wheel drive train was going to bust at the u-joint. With the drive train price at $700, I will be hitting the junk yards looking for a cheaper replacement.

 

If I keep in FWD driving will the u joint go and cause damage?

 

I have decent experience with working on cars but have not put in a drive train on a Suby, only old trucks. I here I have to unbolt the exhaust and put her in. Is this an easy thing to get off the junked car and put it?

 

Does anyone know of a good drivetrain for sale?

 

thanks guys.

 

mike

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i'm not understanding this:

he stated that the back wheel drive train was going to bust at the u-joint. With the drive train price at $700,

"back wheel drivetrain" is an awkward way to put it, but probably just something lost in communication.

 

i'm going to assume you just have a bad u-joint. that's no big deal, you have two options. one costs money, the other is free. keep in mind the driveshaft is a two piece shaft. the front half has to be in place to hold trans fluid in, the rear does not.

 

free - remove the rear half of the drive shaft. remove it and you don't even need to replace it. it's only 8 12mm bolts (4 on each side) and the shaft pulls right out. in my experience it's usually a bad joint in this rear section. some soobs i've worked on have a cover to remove to get to the shaft...very easy, just a couple bolts and it comes off (and i often leave it off!)

 

if both of the ujoints are good in this rear section then you'll need to replace the front section. it slides into the transmission and keeps fluid from coming out, so you'll have to actually replace it if that's the one that's bad.

 

i actually have a 4EAT Legacy driveshaft i'd sell you if you want just PM or email me.

 

If I keep in FWD driving will the u joint go and cause damage?

no - keep it in FWD and you'll be fine.

 

I have decent experience with working on cars but have not put in a drive train on a Suby, only old trucks. I here I have to unbolt the exhaust and put her in. Is this an easy thing to get off the junked car and put it?
i've removed the driveshafts without removing the exhaust before. not sure if different models have different configurations but in my experience the exhaust will give enough to pull the shaft out.

 

1 - i'd remove the rear half of the driveshaft first. car will still be driveable, it's easy to remove and a good chance one of those ujoints is bad. you'll be able to tell once it's off. if that's the case - you're done and you fixed it for free (except your time)

 

2 - if those joints aren't bad then it's the front half and you can source one or PM/email me.

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Assuimg your never going to get the AWD clutchpack fixed, by a honda.

 

 

Seriously, youll get better gas mileage. Why have an AWD car if your not going to fix the AWD.

 

That said if your not going to get the AWD fixed, just remove the second half of the drive shaft and be done with it.

 

 

If you are going to get it fixed, get a used sriveshaft from a junkward. Get the carrier bearing and all if it comes that way. It will just bolt in, very straight forward.

 

nipper

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hot dog!! i'm a fan of AWD and won't go without having AWD soobs. but there are a few reasons, that may not be palatable to everyone but work for others.

 

if it's a good car and well maintained...."the cheapest car is the one you own" kind of deal.

 

there are people that want to buy subaru's but won't because they're AWD and they don't want it. and some that still buy them though they would prefer FWD. so if the AWD goes out...so be it, no point in dropping money on something they didn't want in the first place. i'm not saying that's how i think...just throwing it in the hopper.

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As simple as a driveshft looks, its really hads a few critcal tolerances. The alingment and the balance of the universal joints and the shaft are critical.

 

That 35.00 is the part, but the installation should be done by a dirveshaft shop, so add a few bucks for that.

 

 

Once again, its not the part itself that is expensive, it's the labor.

 

 

And the skill set.

 

nipper

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