You may have seen my other post for help regarding hesitation. I also have notivced, when checking the diff gear oil level yesterday, that it was bone dry. I filled it up but it seems to have a (hopefully) slow leak coming from the passenger's side near the CV axle. Is there any kind of gasket there or seal around the CV axle? Anyone know of something to slow that kind of leak? Is this common?

 

Thanks.

on my brat, i looked and the output seal for the axle stub is leaking some from the bottom of the seal. I plan to order new seals and install, think they are cheap, and it is easy to change to. They probably went dry from the car sitting for so long. wondering too just like you?

anyone got the part number of the seal, and is there a difference left and right since the rotation is opposite,sometimes seals like this have a L and a a R

on my brat, i looked and the output seal for the axle stub is leaking some from the bottom of the seal. I plan to order new seals and install, think they are cheap, and it is easy to change to. They probably went dry from the car sitting for so long. wondering too just like you?

anyone got the part number of the seal, and is there a difference left and right since the rotation is opposite,sometimes seals like this have a L and a a R

 

There is a seal, and a large O-ring each side.

 

Seals are specific to sides, L and R for rotation.

 

 

Now, There is also a very important detail here.

 

The bearing retainer/cap must be removed to replace the seal. The seals DO NOT simply pry outward around the shaft. They must be tapped out of the retainer cup to the inside. So THE CAP MUST BE REMOVED.

 

Each cap should be removed one at a time. Mark the location of the ring and lock plate with a paint pen. Count the # of turns as you unscrew the retainer. Make sure to pull outward on it as you remove it, the o-ring will make it tight and it can be hard to tell when the retainer has cleared the threads, which will throw you're count of the turns off.

Each cap should be removed one at a time. Mark the location of the ring and lock plate with a paint pen. Count the # of turns as you unscrew the retainer. Make sure to pull outward on it as you remove it, the o-ring will make it tight and it can be hard to tell when the retainer has cleared the threads, which will throw you're count of the turns off.

 

It should be noted that this procedure is critical as the bearing caps set the front ring/pinion gear lash and if set incorrectly you WILL be buying a new transmission.

 

GD

It should be noted that this procedure is critical as the bearing caps set the front ring/pinion gear lash and if set incorrectly you WILL be buying a new transmission.

 

GD

 

+1, i wasn't sure if EA81 stuff was different than all the later stuff, but it appears not. proceed carefully.

 

there are a couple of good reads on old threads about this, i'd suggest practicing with the search button to find them. i replied in one of them so you can use my name as an aid using the advanced search feature. will only take you 2 minutes to find it.

 

the basic idea is to install the retaining cap to the exact same position as it is in now when you reinstall it. this involves marking it's position and counting the number of revolutions when removing.