im running 215/75/15's on stock 85 suspensino and offroading on full compression they do rub in the back alittle.

 

i was gonna pick up the SJR 2inch lift kit but i want to make sure i will not rub, i dont mind the occaisional rub but not all the time.

 

ive searched but found nothing,

 

Thanks,

Shean

pick up the SJR 2inch lift kit

 

A rear 2WD strut/shock will pick up your rear 2".

 

There is really no recommending a lift size, it seems every case is a little different, I am up on 215/85 16's and still had some drastic trimming with a 6" lift.

agreed. i am on a 4inch lift on my 85 brat and tire size 205/75/15 and the fronts rub on turns. its a slight rub but noisy as hell.

 

rear are fine, not even close to rubbing, only the fronts. gonna trim i guess. your tire size is larger yet.

ya i clear in the front fine just on full lock it rubs while driving. rear rubs on large bumps and on full compression of the rear suspension.

 

i tried 2wd rear shocks and they are the same size as my 85 4wd ajustables at the tallest notch.

 

i think i should be fine after i roll the fenders and the 2inch lift. i measured the tires and they are 26.5's so with the 2 i hope to be fine, if not then they rub a little.

I'd highly reccomend doing the lift yourself. Even with simple hand tools, and by asking a few questions here, you should be able to knock out a 2" 3rd gen lift no problem. The 2 inchers are really, really simple. I think you should be able to do it in about half a day. Especially if you have access to any grinders, bandsaws, drillpress, etc. But even with a good old fashioned hacksaw, a vice, a cordless/corded drill, and the necessary metal, it wouldn't be very difficult at all.

 

There's nothing better than not only knowing how to do something, but also knowing why you had to do it.... and there's no better way to know than to do it on your own!

 

Plus, you'll be able to say you did it yourself. :cool:

 

Let me know if I can be of any help.

I would not go any higher without doing a body lift too. the adjustables already put your axles pretty much at the max......

 

 

I ran 215/75r15s on my 4" lifted '88 and only had a little rubbing while beating on it, with very little trimming.

 

and 235/75r15s on a 3" lifted '88 with a bunch of rubbing and a lot of trimming.....

 

 

you're probably already at ~2".

well if there is anyone in the sound area of seattle and willing to help me build one i am very willing to pay for your help.

 

i was gonna build it myself but i have to get my welder fixed and stuff.

 

i was thinking of 2inch suspension, 1inch front subframe, 2inch rear shocks and 2inch at the diff would be fine for a trail rig and daily driver. im not wanting something hardcore just a fun trailrig i can use to go hunting, and play in some mud here and there.

highway miles are as hard on axles as anything (if not worse...). on my AA high clearance lift (4" at the struts, 3" on the drivetrain) I did ok, but as soon as I cranked up my front struts (had adjustables from my '85), I'd start killing front axles. probably 60% of the front CVs that failed on my cars, failed on the street.....usually on the freeway.

no the front im leaving alone, rears are at the highest, and when i do the lift ill do 2inch in the front and drop the sub-frame 1inch, and the rear 2inch and drop the rear diff 2inches. i think ill be fine with that settup

no the front im leaving alone, rears are at the highest, and when i do the lift ill do 2inch in the front and drop the sub-frame 1inch, and the rear 2inch and drop the rear diff 2inches. i think ill be fine with that settup

 

IF you are speaking of dropping the front cross members one inch; you may want to rethink your plan. That is a bit of work for what you are getting. Others here have had success in using 2 inch blocks above the front struts, with little or no axle problems. Putting 1 inch blocks in the entire front crossmember grouping would be far more work than it is worth. Not to mention, you may need to address issues such as steering, and shifter linkages. I'm not sure exactly what you can get away with on a 3rd gen, but I wouldn't be surprised if these issues come into play - even if it is only an inch.

 

The standard setup for the lift you speak of is

 

FRONT=

2 inch blocks between the struts, and the factory strut mounting points

These blocks should be cut at an angle to correct geometry, and prevent camber issues

 

REAR=

2 inch lowering of factory strut mounting points

1 inch lowering of rear differential

 

This setup seems to have worked fine for those who have used it.

 

If you wish to go through the trouble of removing the crossmembers; I would honestly go for more than 1 inch of blocks...

awsome thanks for the info.

 

now i just need to find someone who has the weekend off to help. ill bring some cash and your favorite 6'er