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87 gl10 turbo


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i just recently got mt gl10 and replaced the stock intake with a k&n.

 

Be careful with the K&N stuff. They don't filter as well, and the oil can cause issues with hot-wire MAF sensors used on the EA82T. Frankly the existing panel filter is more than enough. Spend your money on exhaust as you'll get a lot more for your dollar.

 

i heard that u can use a wrx top mount intercooler and then be able to boost more? how do i do this?

 

It's not that simple. The EA82T's are poor engines to be pushing lots of boost through. You can increase it a *bit* but go too far and you'll have a pile of useless scrap metal. An IC is a wise investment, but you have to consider fuel enrichment (larger injectors), and monitoring gear in order to safely proceed with increasing boost. Just installing an IC and a manual boost controller will almost certainly leave you with blown head gaskets, cracked heads, and possibly severe bottom end damage. We are used to seeing that around here - the EA82T "tuner" crowd turnover rate is stupendously high as people become inevitibly frustrated by the design constraints of the engine and are ultimately unable to overcome them and get tired of buying expensive (and hard to find) parts all to no avail. Those who have succesfully done EA82T builds have gone through multiple engines and are just stubborn. The learning curve is high and if you need to drive your car I highly sugest you just leave well-enough alone.

 

and what can i do to make my car fast?

 

LOL. Yank that boat anchor out and put in a real engine for starters. The EA82T has major design flaws that limit the reliable power you can put down. To overcome them requires more money than a straight swap to a newer, better designed engine does. So there's just no reason to bother. In race trim the EA82T was capable of pushing around 175 HP - but that's using a lot of non-stock components that can no longer be sourced, and it only had to last through a race or race season. To build them requires effort and money beyond what is practical.

 

You probably aren't going to listen to me or any of the others around here that will tell you to move on and get something else if you want to play in turbo-land, but there it is. You can't say someone didn't warn you.

 

GD

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alright that makes sence.... idk if it matters or would help any but my motor just had a full rebuild and only has about 3000 miles on the new rebuild? if i do put on the IC whats the safest amount of boost i can go to?

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alright that makes sence.... idk if it matters or would help any but my motor just had a full rebuild and only has about 3000 miles on the new rebuild? if i do put on the IC whats the safest amount of boost i can go to?

 

In the neighborhood of 10 to 12 psi is as high as I would go. But it's a subjective number and other's may dissagree. I deal with compressed air every day and I am painfuly aware of the power of a few psi.

 

Before you go and change anything, make sure you have replaced the entire cooling system and all the hoses. It's good that the engine has been rebuilt, but make sure the cooling system has as well. The stock radiators are barely adequate and upgrading to a dual-core is beneficial. Heat is your biggest concern with these engines. The heads will crack and the gaskets will blow.

 

You should have a wideband O2 sensor on it, as well as exhaust gas temp and boost gauges. You don't want to be guessing at anything - especially with manual boost controllers and such.

 

Turbo's are very expensive toy's. The #1 reason people fail at their attemts to mod them is they buy all the "go-fast" parts before they buy any of the supporting gear to do it safely. You can easily eat up $1000 just in upgraded parts, gauges, and sensors before you increase even a single psi. But the flip-side is that you'll be looking for a new engine if you don't do that stuff first. It's very deceptive - you start out by increaseing the boost a few pounds.... everything seems OK..... it's addictive.... so you add a few more..... BAD things happen.

 

My advice is that you forget about the EA82T and just install a non-turbo EJ22. You can get an engine for $250 to $300, an adaptor plate for around $150 - some wireing and plumbing and you are at 135 HP without any of the problems that come with the EA82's.

 

GD

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Hey GD, what is this EJ22 ? Where do you get the adapter plate?Does it work with an auto AWD? What do you do about an ECM?

 

Thanks, Kevin:popcorn:

 

EJ22 is (primarily) the 90 to 94 Legacy engine. It's a 2.2 with 135 HP stock.

 

Adaptor plates are availible from SJR, Rguyver, and other members on this board. Do a search and you'll find some sources.

 

It can work with an automatic I'm sure but that's not typical of where it's used. Generally it's used with manual transmissions. I have not done any automatics myself nor do I know anyone that has.... but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

 

Generally for wireing you just transplant the entire engine control harness and ECU from a donor legacy. They are all over the junk yards now so it's easy to get the harnesses. You just strip out the engine control circuits, provide them with power, and piggyback them to the existing vehicle harness.

 

GD

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GD , thanks for the quick response, I am considering this option because my 88 only has 96K on it, but the trouble codes and the occasional NO STARTS are drving me craZy...I am just interested in a reliable daily driver, got a 65 mile daily commute...

 

Kevin

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ok cool thanks GD. wut is the stock boost at? and i got the car for free with the rebuild from my dad and its my car now so is there any way i cn add a little power but still keepin it safe?? like exahust or can u get a different ecu?

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Stock boost is about 8 psi. There are no plug & play ECU's out there but some have run MegaSquirt - that's a whole topic in itself though. The stock ECU is pretty good and very reliable - it's simple enough that it will handle light mods without any problems for the most part. Exhaust is a good start - there are some custom down-pipe's out there that have been made for the EA82T's by TWE but they aren't easy to get and not cheap. Beyond that anything you do will have to be custom made as no one sells exhaust systems for EA82T's.

 

GD

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Hey QBABY, listen to GD on this. He is on point! I have an EA82T equipped '88 GL-10 and there isn't really any aftermarket support for these. I have made many worthwhile mods to mine, but after lots of research and knowing a few things from working on other turbo cars. While incredibly finicky, the EA82T is still a fun little engine. But don't expect to make lots of power out of one. That 175hp rating for the race engine was really pushing the EA82T to the limits. And even then, that horsepower figure was at the crank. with a 16% driveline loss percentage, you're only getting 147hp of that to all 4 wheels and then the ground. I'm not trying to be a naysayer because I love my EA82T. But what it comes down to is you have to know the engines limits.

 

Now as far as boost goes, 11psi is probably going to be max pressure. At 12psi the poor little stock turbo is wheezing up top. There are some members that have successfully transplanted TD04s onto their EA82Ts with no problems. Just make sure that you don't neglect the fueling side of things. If you do, you are most certain to be sorry down the road. One thing by far that will net you the best power gain is probably going to be a freer flowing exhaust system. It is the safest mod aside from installing an IC. One other thing to note, when you install your IC, make sure that you recirculate the BPV.

 

Patrick

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My advice is that you forget about the EA82T and just install a non-turbo EJ22. You can get an engine for $250 to $300, an adaptor plate for around $150 - some wireing and plumbing and you are at 135 HP without any of the problems that come with the EA82's.

 

GD

 

Or if he is feeling froggy, and he can find all the necessary equipment(wiring harness), he can install an EJ20G and still be able to have a reliable turbocharged engine.

 

Patrick

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Oh and before I forget, you should check out the post by a member here whose SN is presslab. This guy has been making some huge progress on the electronic side of things(boost control, fuel cut avoidance, etc). Check his post out, as it is very much worthwhile.

 

Here is a link:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86273

 

Patrick

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QBaby, JMHO but most of us guys here don't speak l33t and teh spelling goes a long way. :rolleyes:

 

I dropped the EJ22 (gen 1 legacy 2.2l) into my 88 and i've never regretted it, same if not better econ, real usable power even with the big tires. Much easier than trying to hop up an EA series, and much cheaper too, they even have aftermarket parts for them.

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The first mod you should do is install a boost gauge.

 

This way you understand more how a Turbo works and when to expect boost. Not only that, but you will also see what your stock turbo makes. It will differ depending on your elevation. At home I see 9psi at max boost, when im in the mountains i see 11psi.

 

A bone stock EA82T should boost at 7 to 8psi stock with no intercooler. You add an intercooler and that will drop to probably 5psi. Your ECU will cut fuel at 11psi if I remember correctly. Maybe its 14psi, again it can depend on elevation. Regardless, anything below 10 is safe but only with a propperly installed intercooler and bypass valve. Notice how I said bypass valve and not a blow off valve.

 

 

The EA82 Turbo will not make huge power, but its a decent engine. its a very good learners engine. If you have any questions about anything I just discussed (bypass valves, intercoolers, PSI in relation to atmospheric pressure) then you are not yet ready to do a TD04 and top mount swap.

 

 

I also suggest you put the stock air filter box in place. Unless you already have done exhaust mods, your intake mod is near useless and will cause more harm than good in the long run.

 

-Brian

 

p.s.

Welcome to the board.

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