sasquatch Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 I have a '90 Legacy Wgn with 240K. About three months ago it started shaking at idle and had a VERY rough spot around 40mph. It felt like the car was missing, not a fuel thing. I just happened to have the right spark plugs on my shelf, put them in and it worked just fine. Last month the symptoms returned. I put in a new fuel filter and plug wires but that didn't do the trick. I then pulled all the plugs, shined them up with sandpaper, reinstalled, and the car was back to running right. This weekend we took this car on a 400 mile trip over White Pass loaded with camping gear. The car was running hot at the top of the pass (I suspect bad themostat as it was aftermarket). When we got to the camp spot, I took out the thermostat and took the car for a ride and the motor no longer got hot but then the rough running was back. I pulled the plugs and tried to clean them again, but I didn't have sandpaper and had to use the green part of a kitchen sponge. :dead:The car is still running rough. It did make it all the way back home though (I LOVE this old car). There is no doubt in my mind that I have weak compression in at least one cyl but I haven't checked yet. The car is not smoking nor is there any white residue in the oil. When I get home today I'm going to see if I can borrow a compression tester from the neighbor and try the sandpaper trick and regap the plugs. What the heck do y'all think might be wrong?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 It sounds like the plugs are fouling due to the high mileage on the engine. I suggest you use NGK plugs and step up the heat rating on them over the normal ones to help burn off the oil getting on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sasquatch Posted September 15, 2008 Author Share Posted September 15, 2008 I'm using NGK plugs currently...can't remember which ones off hand...end in 11 I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sasquatch Posted September 16, 2008 Author Share Posted September 16, 2008 I got home today, pulled the plugs, gaped them, shined up the contact points and put them back in...it didn't work this time. The plugs actually look normal....hmph. I had heard that the cam sensor can cause a similar symptom so I took it and the crank sensor out, removed the grime on them and reinstalled.....nada. The car is still running rough. Ideas? I tried to pull the OBDI codes and couldn't figure out which plugs to connect/disconnect. I've done it before but it has been quite awhile....I've never found OBD1 codes all that helpful anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 I recommend you get a hotter style plug and new plug wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sasquatch Posted September 16, 2008 Author Share Posted September 16, 2008 Thank you for being the only person to reply. The plug wires are only a couple weeks old and as far as a hotter plug, I do have the recommended plugs in the vehicle, but what plugs do you recommend? Which are "hotter"? I swear after all the tinkering yesterday the car is running a little better though I don't know why and I'm not convinced that one cylinder isn't fubar'd. Until I see white smoke tho' I'm going to keep trying. Does cam sensor failure cause similar symptoms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 (edited) You're welcome for the help. There are a lot of other good posters with helpful hints to give. With the recent problem of the site access people are getting connected again here after the hack-in. Get some NGKs that have a higher heat rating than the current ones you are using. You may want to step up one or two heat ranges. That should help at least to burn off the oil deposits collecting on the plugs. I have heard that replacing cam sensor has helped with this kind of thing but I don't think it is a common problem fixer of this type of trouble. It may help in your case but I can't say for sure. I suggest you try swapping it only if nothing else works to fix the trouble. Using a vacuum gauge may help show up things like a sticky valve if there is something like that going on. Running some Seafoam through the intake of the engine may help clear some carbon deposits that have built up in the cylinders. I would also do a compression check to see what that shows up. Edited September 16, 2008 by Cougar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 [...]Get some NGKs that have a higher heat rating than the current ones you are using. You may want to step up one or two heat ranges. That should help at least to burn off the oil deposits collecting on the plugs.[...]NGK numbering system:http://www.ngk.com/sparkplug411_manufacturer.asp?manufacturerID=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sasquatch Posted September 17, 2008 Author Share Posted September 17, 2008 I finally pulled the codes today and got a 17--Fuel Injector #4 and a 35--Purge control solenoid valve Think I've found my problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 th3e 17 is likely the cause of the problem. the pruge control solenoid is also a part that I've had to replace a couple of times (on other peoples cars), but I'm not sure how it would relate to the misfire problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 th3e 17 is likely the cause of the problem. the pruge control solenoid is also a part that I've had to replace a couple of times (on other peoples cars), but I'm not sure how it would relate to the misfire problem.i agree totally. has the check engine light been on before, and you just didn't mention it or did it just come on? if they aren't new Subaru wires there's a really good chance your ignition problem is related to the spark plug wires as well. the EJ engines (which yours is) are best to use Subaru wires on for some reason. i've seen brand new aftermarket wires cause immediate problems. they are usually accompanied with a cylinder misfire code though - which is why i'd check into the fuel injector code first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sasquatch Posted September 18, 2008 Author Share Posted September 18, 2008 sorry I didn't mention it before, but yes, the CEL has been on periodically since all this started. The wires are not OEM but again, since the wires were installed the car WAS running fine for a time before the problem resurfaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sasquatch Posted September 19, 2008 Author Share Posted September 19, 2008 so...........the problem is gone. Yesterday after pulling the codes and getting the purge solenoid and injector #4 I just made the connections were on properly. Afterward it was still running very rough and this morning on my way to work it was bad. Getting in it after work? She ran great. I am relieved that this would seem to indicate the problem isn't too serious. Sticky injector? What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 Suggest adding a can of Techron or TL3 fuel system cleaner. It will cost about $5 or $6/can. Add to a full tank of gas. You will know within driving 25 miles if the additive is going to help or not. Run tank nearly empty before refueling to get the best use of all the additive. Don't waste your money on fuel system cleaners costing less then $5/can, as they don't work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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