Simple solution, you say you have it 1/4 of the way out, so cut the part of the pin that is protruding off flush then drive the pin back in far enough so as to clear the axle and remove..... BENGAL

Whoever mentioned 3/16 punch I would like to thank. I went to Menards, found the 3/16 punches and grabbed a couple and noticed they were different sizes. GREAT. So I bought the one that looked larger, and have punched I think 6 pins out with EASE. THANK YOU

I've always used the 3/16" size per the How to Keep Your Subaru Alive book. Page 358 of the 2nd edition version:

"The perfect punch for removing Subaru DOJs is a 3/16" Sears Craftsman #42885 WF." This is the size I've always used and never had a problem. I also punch out from the unbevelled side and in from the bevelled side, but apparently that doesn't matter from the other posts I've seen.

 

The axles with bevelled holes on both sides must be a hoot, since now you could be 1/2 tooth off if you're unfortunate enough to be 180 degrees off on installing the DOJ side. That might be why the OP is having the issues that he has.

I found when putting the other axel on that it was quiet obvious that it was 180 degrees off so i put it the right way, so i shouldn't have a problem that way.

It's easy enought to tell which way the axel goes, just look at the splines on your axel and transmission. One hole will have a male spline going right thru its center and the other , a female spline goin up its center. Just match them up. This eliminates any guess work .

All the beveled edge does is help you to " find center " for your punch or your pin. That is all that it is for.

I do not profess to know a lot about subaru's , These are just observasions from what I have worked on so far and a liitle mechanical common sense.

BENGAL

I found when putting the other axel on that it was quiet obvious that it was 180 degrees off so i put it the right way, so i shouldn't have a problem that way.

Obvious because you were paying attention. I have seen at least one where someone (shall remain nameless) managed to force the roll pin half way in. It was hard to get out!

And this is why I spent $16 on the correct axle pin tool from Mac Tools. I have 2 of the correct tools for the axle pins. And if they break, I get a new one for free:banana:

And this is why I spent $16 on the correct axle pin tool from Mac Tools. I have 2 of the correct tools for the axle pins. And if they break, I get a new one for free:banana:

 

picked up a set of long punches from Harbor Freight that included a 3/16" perfect for punching through (your results may vary of course)

 

oh, the set was like $6

I've always used the 3/16" size per the How to Keep Your Subaru Alive book. Page 358 of the 2nd edition version:

"The perfect punch for removing Subaru DOJs is a 3/16" Sears Craftsman #42885 WF." This is the size I've always used and never had a problem. I also punch out from the unbevelled side and in from the bevelled side, but apparently that doesn't matter from the other posts I've seen.

 

 

That punch is utter worthless if you have to do one on anything where the clearance to the catalyst around the pin is tight.

 

A snap-on 7/32" long punch, or the tool mentioned above (I have both) are essential in my opinion. Great on Turbo axles, Newer outback axles, the whole lot. A long 1/4" extension is also very handy. You stick the end of the pin into the female end of the extension to hold the pin while you drive it in with a small hammer. Too big a hammer and you get a 180' out situation very easily if you aren't watchful of your work.

Well I got it out! It took some drilling and another punch to force it out, but I didn't need to use heat! Thanks for your help guys!

 

-Phil

Well I got it out! It took some drilling and another punch to force it out, but I didn't need to use heat! Thanks for your help guys!

 

-Phil

 

Sweet! Are you still selling the car?

Yes, just updated that thread as well