For what ever it is worth to someone looking for a carb and to make a long story short, the FI conversion was not applicable since this carb purchase was more of an experiment...Just installed a new/reman carb from a reseller on Ebay (deerfoot auto parts..$94) very surprised that when starting this car with 25degF outside, it immediately started after a couple of turns and ran smoothly, no stumble or hesitation which is so often associated with these carbs..it truely reminded me of when the car was new (1986)..I am very familiar from my own past experiences and friends who have purchased rebuilds only to find that the new carb is not much better then the old ..anyway, my rebuild was done by Tomco and the parts that they used seem to the eye to be of a better quality and the only adjustment needed was to lower the fast idle (screw)

Edited December 19, 200817 yr by Petersubaru

I may order this decal, slap it on my car, wear it like a tatoo.

 

 

Good to hear Peter.

I may order this decal, slap it on my car, wear it like a tatoo.

 

 

Good to hear Peter.

I may Also have to order that "decal" if this carb works like it did this morning and as described above..snow up to my a##..car started no problem..well below freezing here ...waited one minute and drove away, not even a hickup..once it was fully warmed up I further adjusted the idle to 900rpm..runs reallly smooth..eventually I will hookup the "stove pipe" to it

Did you notice if there had been any work done on the throttle shaft(s) or throttle shaft bores? Or mention of it in the item description? Is this is for an '86 ea82? Glad to hear it worked so well.

Did you notice if there had been any work done on the throttle shaft(s) or throttle shaft bores? Or mention of it in the item description? Is this is for an '86 ea82? Glad to hear it worked so well.

the new carb was for an '86 EA...there is no specific mention of new throttle shaft bushings..just re-manufactured to new condition..however I did check shaft for play and there is None..also when looking in detail at the base for example, anything that could be "removed or drilled out" has been replaced with new ....I wanted to mention which I did not before..all my emission stuff has been removed so most of the vac ports have been plugged on the carb and manifold...also previously I had a 3 prong plug and the one I purchased is a 4 prong plug..the red wire just needs to be grounded..very small differences in the jet sizes between the former and newer carb..

Edited December 19, 200817 yr by Petersubaru

Hope I have the same good luck as you did. I just received my new/rebuilt Hitachi from the same ebay seller today.

Well... Good Luck!

 

Let me Tell you that my Dad Purchased a Remanufactured Carburetor for Our Mercury Comet `69 (L6 250) Back in 1999... It came Chromed from inside to outside But it came for the 177 Engine :-\ instead for the 250... But it Works Great Too since the First Start Just like Yours and it Gives Much Better Fuel Mileage!

 

is Nice to Know that those Carbs comes soo great!

Hope I have the same good luck as you did. I just received my new/rebuilt Hitachi from the same ebay seller today.

it all depends on the person who put it together..a little side note here, but I am beginning to think that the performance greatly depends on the correct setting of the "float"..one measurement for example being 1.1mm..very finiky and difficult to accomplish ...certainly very unlike a"holley" double pumper..let me know how the carb turns out for you and don't forget to check the tightness of the screws..I found one that was somewhat lose

Edited December 20, 200817 yr by Petersubaru

Hope I have the same good luck as you did. I just received my new/rebuilt Hitachi from the same ebay seller today.

You will need 2 base gaskets from subaru .....OEM gaskets are so much better in quality and will prevent any coolant from leaking down into the cylinders for along time to come..

you will need 2 base gaskets from subaru .....oem gaskets are so much better in quality and will prevent any coolant from leaking down into the cylinders for along time to come..

2?

2?

I mentioned 2 gaskets because I have a 1/4" plastic or bakelite spacer that fits between the carb and intake manifold..that is the way it came from the dealer

Yes, two base gaskets.

 

Doug

Okay, thanks. I didn't realize there were a couple of them down there.

 

it all depends on the person who put it together..a little side note here, but I am beginning to think that the performance greatly depends on the correct setting of the "float"..one measurement for example being 1.1mm..very finiky and difficult to accomplish ...certainly very unlike a"holley" double pumper..let me know how the carb turns out for you and don't forget to check the tightness of the screws..I found one that was somewhat lose

 

Thank you for the alerts. It won't be going on the car for a few weeks, definitely after Jan. 1st. We're snowed in here in SW WA and it's still coming down.

 

I won't be putting it on myself but will have my mechanic's shop do it. Still cheaper than getting the one on my car rebuilt. I will make a note of what I should be aware of from your post and give it to my mechanic.

Thank you for the alerts. It won't be going on the car for a few weeks, definitely after Jan. 1st. We're snowed in here in SW WA and it's still coming down.

 

I won't be putting it on myself but will have my mechanic's shop do it. Still cheaper than getting the one on my car rebuilt. I will make a note of what I should be aware of from your post and give it to my mechanic.

..One other important item.. before removing the carb base nuts...drain some coolant by disconnecting that little coolant hose attached to the manifold just below the carb base or drain a little from the rad ..you want the coolant level to be below the intake level...I drained about 3 cups of coolant..then this way no coolant will enter the manifold and mix with the oil...the OE carb base gasket # is: 16173 AA001..when comparing the OE gasket to the one that comes with the carb...you will know what I mean..sometime after it is all done, you could lightly tighten up the 4 base nuts

 

..One other important item.. before removing the carb base nuts...drain some coolant by disconnecting that little coolant hose attached to the manifold just below the carb base or drain a little from the rad ..you want the coolant level to be below the intake level...I drained about 3 cups of coolant..then this way no coolant will enter the manifold and mix with the oil...the OE carb base gasket # is: 16173 AA001..when comparing the OE gasket to the one that comes with the carb...you will know what I mean..sometime after it is all done, you could lightly tighten up the 4 base nuts

 

OK, thank you very much again.

[quote=Subarule....I was just wondering if you had a chance to hook-up that new carb off ebay and if any problems had to be overcome...with the cold weather here I had to adjust the "fast idle" up and also had to "close" the choke a bit from the manufactures setting..maybe 2 notches...backed the idle off to 750 rpm when warmed up.. and I have to say that it runs and idles better then what originally came with the car back in '86 (of course that is not saying very much)...I still need to fix (maybe) the hot air suction tube coming off the cat convertor for the carb to warm up quicker..the warm air would probably give more power during these colder days