No the diff only goes up in place one way, so you won't need to get an alignment. Gloyale is right about how you should go about it, but since I have dealt with a lot of rusty cars, I think I know what your dealing with! Hope what I said can help

if you can get the axle off the diff (I wouldn't drop the diff just yet. as I really don't think that will help all that much. it is only 3 bolts, but I just don't think it'll be that much help). if you can get it free of the diff, you can pound the spindle out of the bearings with the axle still attached

if you can get the axle off the diff (I wouldn't drop the diff just yet. as I really don't think that will help all that much. it is only 3 bolts, but I just don't think it'll be that much help). if you can get it free of the diff, you can pound the spindle out of the bearings with the axle still attached

 

Yeah that's pretty much the same idea I had. I know that sometimes with the rust it can be a pain!

As most of us who have wheeling machines have added structural steel to the diff hanger, dismounting it is rather involved. I sugest you learn the corrent method which is to lower the control arm after unboling the coil-over shock mount.

 

Pull the axle off the diff.... or the stub - doesn't really matter.

 

Drive the stub through the bearing assembly with a copper or brass hammer or drift. Leaving the axle attached if you could only free the diff side is acceptable at this stage but it will have to be dissasembled on the bench for installation purposes - which may require a blue wrench if you have serious rust issues.

 

Remove the ring nut, and drive out the bearings or bearing assembly - depending on which you find in there.

 

Assembly is the reverse.

 

GD

The correct size punch for subaru axle pins is 7/32. the longer the better.

I think that will be my next attempt, as General Disorder has explained. If I can get the diff side pin out with the punches I buy, then I can see the axle coming out. I won't be able to try until next weekend, again but I will keep you all posted. Once again, and I am sure you must hear it over and over...thank you all so much!!

There should be enough play with the wheel extended downward to pul the axle of the wheel end. I'm sorry, but changing rear wheel bearings should not require the removal of the inner cup from the diff, and espescially not removal of the diff itself.

 

I'd remove the whole friggin control arm and do the work on a bench if I was going to go to that much trouble.

I mostly agree with you, I'm just thinking because of the amount of rust there must be, It might be the easier way. But I agree, if at all possible, I would do it the way you're saying.

I'm sorry, but changing rear wheel bearings should not require the removal of the inner cup from the diff

 

It does if the outboard splines are rusted together as often happens due to their being lower and more exposed to road spray. Removing the cup from the diff side and removing the stub axle and axle as a unit from the control arm facilitates bringing it to the bench where you can more easily use the hot wrench to get it loose.

 

Under normal circumstances though you are correct. Just not for this individual.

 

GD