February 3, 200917 yr fuel runs out when carb is assembled, what't the trick to put it together so it doesn't happen? how is the float position measured correctly, or method that works to ajust so it works? when carb top is turned upside down without rest of carb attached, the float holds down the needle and no fuel flows, works like it should there seems to be something that makes the carb and decide to torture me every time I try to assemble and test installed modified solid bolt m6x1x45 end edit the whole process went fairly well except for the moment of truth turn on fuel pump and gas pours out of uncapped port below fuel supply inlet and between cast iron and aluminum pieces the HOLLOW screw that runs from bottom of cast iron base up into the aluminum bowl block, head twisted off :-\ what is the dimensions of this screw, length and diameter??? fairly sure something was not right with the needle and seat Edited February 7, 200917 yr by subiemech85 add more
February 3, 200917 yr maybe yor carb kit came with the needle and seat which i needed in my kit. I made mine work, but it for sure came with wrong needle and seat? NAPA?
February 5, 200917 yr Author still looking for dimensions of the hollow bolt! did not mess with needle and seat
February 5, 200917 yr I have rebuilt half a dozen Hitachi's, but I don't have one handy right now to take dimensions off that bolt.... To what end do you need these dimensions? Sounds like it's a special part (being hollow) and should probably be replaced with a like component (junkyard or dealer). Also - what is the purpose behind rebuilding the Hitachi? The kit's availible out there contain largely inferior components and the carbs are WAY more trouble than they are worth with all the extra systems they employ for driveability and economy. A Weber or SPFI is really the best treatment for a severe case of hitachitis. GD
February 5, 200917 yr Author I have rebuilt half a dozen Hitachi's, but I don't have one handy right now to take dimensions off that bolt.... To what end do you need these dimensions? Sounds like it's a special part (being hollow) and should probably be replaced with a like component (junkyard or dealer). Also - what is the purpose behind rebuilding the Hitachi? The kit's availible out there contain largely inferior components and the carbs are WAY more trouble than they are worth with all the extra systems they employ for driveability and economy. A Weber or SPFI is really the best treatment for a severe case of hitachitis. GD 1. length, diameter, thread pitch! at this point I'm tempted to screw in a standard bolt held in place with removable thread locker don't need to be exact, going to hardware store to get what's close will need to know dimensions by friday 12 pm cst I am at my week house, and will be travelling back to the weekend house with heated garage where the car and carb is 2. this hitachi has been serving me quite well, runs smooth, ...... just about every BS emissions control has been done away with as part of the swap only issue was smell of gas in cabin while driving coming from slow leaks due to bad gaskets the walker kit with paper gaskets and good rubber boot for the accelerator pump is better than the old leaky cork gasket and rotten boot just need to run this engine until the ea82t is ready to go back in, hence no spfi or weber the carb has been doing just fine, even starts good at -20f with block heater and no choke or pumping ea81 engine with ea82 intake and carb to replace ea82t as a temporary engine until the ea82t is ready to go in, bought car with ea82t that suffered water in cooling system that froze, cracked block, and popped freeze plugs in heads
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now