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How much cooler should the A/C cool over ambient air temperature?

 

I'm not sure mine is cooling all the way.. so I brought one of those 134a recharge kits and connected it on the Low side and to my surprise it was already in the range that the interdynamics said to use..

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did you follow all the directions, like do it with the car running? something else in the system might not be working right.

 

in general those cheeze-ball little kits in a bottles do work okay, but they certainly aren't professional grade stuff. but i've gotten them to work just fine enough that i would think your problem is elsewhere. i say that because folks are going to say you need a professional, or gauges, etc, to check this for you.

 

and if your a/c system is not working well then they may be right.

 

if it's undercharged it should get cool....then warm....then cool....the compressor will be cycling on and off due to improper levels. it won't stay the same temperature all the time.

 

is the compressor cylcling on and of if you run it for 15-20 minutes?

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Those gauges on those cans are pure junk and shouldnt even be sold with them (for all the good they do). You need a real set of gauges and a thermometer to tell us how cold it is blowing, along with letting us know ambiant air temp.

 

All those things factor into what the answer would be.

 

 

nipper

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Take it to a shop, as you dont have any idea what you are doing.

 

1- Car needs to be running

2- The cycling will decrease as the pressure increases

3- you NEED REAL GAUGES, as we need to see both low and high side pressures. DO NOT USE REGULAR GAUGES.

4- AC if you dont have a clue can seriously hurt you. The only other systems under the car that are just as dangerous is a hot raditaot or accidently shorting out a battery. Everything else can just mame you.

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it's not a bad idea to spend 20-30 minutes reading general A/C info and how to do this on the internet or something. it's not all that complicated, good to know, and helps when trying to figure this stuff out.

 

Did not do it with the car running and it cycles every 25 sec or so
ah, ha, so it is doing that! this is really simple then, you missed a step. might want to read the packaging or can for some tips.

 

have the car running (i even up the RPM's by pushing the throttles) while charging. charge it with the engine running and it'll take more and quit cycling.

 

but it's leaking, it was low right? so you have a leak somewhere. i'd be using some of the refrigerant with stop leak in it. i've used that with good sucess, not sure how long it will last but it does help.

 

might even want to consider replacing the two orings under the line fittings (only one bolt holding them on) and the schrader valves if this charge leaks out quickly in the future.

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but it's leaking, it was low right? so you have a leak somewhere. i'd be using some of the refrigerant with stop leak in it. i've used that with good sucess, not sure how long it will last but it does help.

 

might even want to consider replacing the two orings under the line fittings (only one bolt holding them on) and the schrader valves if this charge leaks out quickly in the future.

My SVX's refrigerant seems to leak out every winter and I have to recharge the system every spring/summer...
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My experience has been that if a system requires recharging annually, that filling the system with fresh R134 that contains a dye can help locate leaks. I was in Advance Auto Parts just today & noticed they now carry a blacklight flashlight to easliy see where injected dye leaks out.

 

It's always best to find & fix the leaks, rather than continuing to dump refrigerant in the system. Most modern car HVAC systems automatically run the AC compressor when in DEFROST mode. This not only clears the windshield faster during cool humid days, but exercises the compressor & keeps the seals oiled & pliable. If you don't use the defroster very much, run in the AC mode for 15 or 20 minutes each week. If the system is tight, this exercise will keep it that way. If the sytem isn't tight, inject R134 with dye, find & fix the leak. Then the system has integrity & you'll never have to wonder if there's enough refrigerant in your system.

 

ScottG

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So like I said in the PM before I charged the system up with the car running I noticed when the compressor clutch kicked in the pressure would drop happen.. So anyways I filled the system to around 36psi and the air is much cooler now.. however one person told me from Legacy central that the A/C compressor cycles on and off more often when the fan speed is set to high?

 

I will get the temperature of the vents tomorrow

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It's always best to find & fix the leaks, rather than continuing to dump refrigerant in the system. Most modern car HVAC systems automatically run the AC compressor when in DEFROST mode. This not only clears the windshield faster during cool humid days, but exercises the compressor & keeps the seals oiled & pliable.

 

ScottG

 

I miss the old systems where you had no option to turn off the A/C when the defrost on.

 

I know a someone who does this in his toyota every time dew is on the window.. takes forever for it to go away...

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