Searching for a procedure here.

 

Trying to figure out what tools are needed.

 

Guessing at replacing bearings, piston rings, maybe pistons(might as well cure the slap at the same time).

 

Other than a regular HG job I'd have to totally disconnect the intake and oil pan as a start.

 

Sources for the internal parts needed? Stock quality would be fine. Not looking for fancy/high performace just reliability.

 

Do I just plain old need my head examined?

 

I've got about 1/2 dozen 2.5's around here needing HG's or bearings. Thought I might actually try fixing one. All the HG engines also had rod knock(not piston slap, rod knock).

 

How much more time and specialty tools than a HG job?

 

Thanks in advance for the thoughts.

Well i cant really answer to much of your questions but....where I work...to replace the shortblock (EJ25, SOHC&DOHC) it pays us around 8-11 hours...which i think is terrible...that is pulling the engine, striping it down, bolting everything on the new shortblock and dropping it back in...I do know that there is quite a bit more involved in splitting the case halves...hidden o-rings and bolts and such...If you where to get in there and end up replacing the rods and bearings I would definately go to the dealership for those parts...It would be a phenominal learning experience (ive yet to spit the case halves also) however i tend to think of the labor and parts it might just be cheaper to buy a used, known good shortblock...

Go Dave go!!!

doing the plastigauge thing is a turn off for me, requiring the block to be split and put back together twice.

 

the second major strike is the cost. you could probably try and "bearing slap it" and not do anything else. but when splitting a block it's typical to have the crank checked and ground if needed, the bores honed, and the rods reconditioned i think. add to that the main bearings, rod bearings, and piston rings and you're in quite a chunk of change. but i guess you could try and get away without doing any of that other stuff.

 

i've already bought some bearings and want to do it at least once just for fun/learning experience, so to me it's worth it once at least. we'll have a block rebuild party one day dave!

Thanks for the thoughts so far.

 

I don't mind a challenge - but I'd like to think I'm not stupid.

 

I'm betting parts at the dealer would put this over budget. Not that I have a budget.

 

My local dealer only does the shortblock thing. So they were of little help. I do have a Suby tech that can probably give me a hand. Apparently they learn how to rebuild them in training but then never actually do them at the dealership.

 

I haven't totally redone an engine in years other than VW air cooled's and that has been some time ago and were pretty easy with the jugs and all.

 

The cars I do have between 100 and 200k so getting a new shortblock is out of the budget by the time all the other work is done.

 

Never tried the JDM route.

 

Hate to just get another local 2.5 with 100k and up, do the HG's, TB, idlers, seals, etc then put it in and hear rod knock. I've been that route (twice with the same engine in a 99 Forester 2.5 SOHC).

 

If it's not worth doing I can accept that.

 

Or if someone has done this before and is willing to show others I can offer a place, engines, parts, and hopefully tools. Maybe a few of us can get smartened up a bit?

Mr.Radon of the Subaruxt forum rebuilt an ER27 (6 cylinder XT6 engine). Same process and similar in nearly every respect as far as the steps and function. he documented it quite well with pictures.

 

hopefully Shawn or CCR see this, they have actually done it. Or someone that knows of a good rebuild thread from another forum.

doing the plastigauge thing is a turn off for me, requiring the block to be split and put back together twice.

 

 

Careful measuring with a micrometer can eliminate the need for plastigauge.

 

In fact if your machine shop has your bearings, crank , and block, they should be checking all that while doing any machine work.

 

The one thing I would definately do if you have a 2.5 case split, is to have the decks surfaced.

 

EJs are easier to split than EA motors. Better O-rings.

 

I'd say go for it. It is satisfying when you are done. Not really that hard. Worst part is pulling the wrist pins if they are stubborn. You'll need to fashion a *hook* and use a slide-hammer

Worst part is pulling the wrist pins if they are stubborn. You'll need to fashion a *hook* and use a slide-hammer

will a tool for EA series engines work or is the EJ stuff different?

 

i have a custom made tool for the EA/ER series stuff Dave. if it works and you want to borrow it let me know.

GG,

 

Thanks for the offer - and I may end up taking you up on it. I'm not big on borrowing tools but it may make sense in this case. If it works and I think I may do this again I can have one made for myself.

 

I haven't decided whether to take on this project yet.

 

But it would be nice to know if your tool might work.

 

Dave

ebay acl race bearings(opens up your revving abilities a bit more) - 80 bux shipped

 

sti pistons - 50 ish right now on there (not sure if they'd work right you'd have to check the numbers

 

didn't find any normal pistons on there.

 

if you do it please post a ton of pics and a how-to i have an ej22 that might be needing a rebuild soon.....

 

GL

I can't believe there isn't a procedure from someone doing this before.

 

If I do it I will take pics.

 

Actually I'd like some help. A second set of eyes, and someone to bounce ideas off of while doing it. In addition to any expertise they may have and documenting abilities. I have a tendence to remember before pictures, and after pictures when doing a project and forget a lot of the pics in between. Especially if my hands are dirty. Also my memory isn't always the greatest and taking notes while working on engines I tend not to do.

 

Thats why I'd like to see if anyone has any interest in assisting me, doing their own at the same time, etc. I believe at this time they'd just need to supply their own engine stand and engine(actually I have engines needing done if they'd like to work on one of those).

 

I normally do everything myself. But I think two heads may be better than one for this project especially since I haven't done it and to be able to document it better.

if i were closer i would have my engine stand in the back of my old wagon and be there to help but im a thousand miles away.