84 GL, ECS light comes on and off killing engine. Checked code shows a 73. Disconnected computer car still runs the same. When running it's as though the key is being turned on and off rapidly.

Any pointers???

Code 73 is the ignition pulse system, if that helps at all.

Just wondering if anyone else had this problem? Guess it's time to break out the multi-meter...

Thanks

what you described is what a ignition miss feels like. the code would seem to back that up. check to see if power and ground are good to the disty ect. sounds like a bad pick up. I can check the wiring diagram if you need more specifics.

I've only visually inspected so far, grounds look good. Vacuum lines so so. Runs fine when cold. Hate to send it to the glue factory. thanks.

Could be the ign. module in the disty. Test it.

 

GD

The way to test those is a test light on the yellow side of the coil? Maybe some others? Went to the pick-your-part today to look for a "disty" or module but no luck.

Yeah - disty's go quick at the junk yards. The funny thing is that the only thing that really ever needs replacing in them is the ign module - and that's not even very common. The bushings in them can be rebuilt.

 

You should call CCR - they sell rebuilt disty's, and you could probably get just the ign module from them. The whole disty from them is only like $150 or so, so the module should be considerably less than that.

 

GD

Yeah - disty's go quick at the junk yards.

That's the truth. Finally found one from a GL10 4wd it was also a nippondenso. The car runs fine now.

 

However, after a while the ECS light comes on. Maybe something else is causing the distributor/module to fail and this distributor is doomed as well.

 

Before I replaced the distributor the engine would cut out above 3K rpm and when warm. Runs great now except for the damn ECS light.

Check your computer codes again...

 

GD

Now the ecs idiot light flashes after driving a while instead of staying on.

 

The ECS itself is showing a 73 code again; car still runs fine tho'.

Check your coil, it might need replacing. Also check with your voltmeter to see if it's getting enough voltage. With the engine running, put one lead of the voltmeter on the + terminal of teh battery, and the other on the + terminal of the coil, you should see no more than 1/2 volt. If you see any more than that, check the wiring to the coil, and the connections on the coil, see if they are corroded.

 

Also, your coil might be wired backwards. The yellow wires should be on the (-) side and the black wires should be on the (+) side of the coil.

It's showing 8/10ths of a volt. The coil is wired correctly and the connections look sound, may clean/replace the connectors.

 

Now the ECS is showing a 33 code.