GTMorgan Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 I have a question about the timing belt on a 95 legacy 2.2. I just changed my water pump, and while changing the actual pump was easy, putting the timing belt back on was a difficult operation. I finally did it with some help, and I started the car without the drivebelts on to see how it did. It ran pretty terribly. At idle it seemed to be ok, (a little ragged) but when I stepped on the gas it was clear that the timing was off. My assumption is it's because I didn't put the belt on correctly. So today I took a stab at putting the belt back on. I took it off, then aligned the crank and the cams according to the marks on the pulleys. I then counted 44 teeth to the left and 40.5 teeth to the right and tried to line them up with the arrows on the pulley. It seemed to work so I put the the lower idler sprocket and pulley back on and now it won't start. It will turn over, but it never catches. It seems that I have put the timing off even more then it was! Harsh... I then noticed that when I align the crank and the cam pulleys with the belt on, they are not all pointing up. The right one is a few degrees off. If this is the case then I have no idea how to put the belt on with the correct number of teeth between the pulleys and keep the alignment marks where they should be. (A few times in the process I had to move the pulleys around a bit to get the belt on, and they seemed to jump to where they wanted to be... Sometimes they jumped as much as 10 or 15 degrees in either direction...) So my question is: What am I doing wrong? How can I make sure the pulleys are supposed to be where they are supposed to be and get the belt on? Might I have damaged the engine by cranking it with the timing belt installed wrong? What would you do if you were in my situation. Thanks... GTMorgan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 . . . and tried to line them up with the arrows on the pulley . . . . You don't line them up with the arrows on the pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 +1 ^..thankfully you have a non-interference motor....Use the hash mark on the crank sprocket not the arrow....take a look here.... http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 (edited) you are using the wrong marks to line up the crank a cam pulleys. if ytou don't have a haynes repair manual, search here for the correct info. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php Edited May 29, 2009 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTMorgan Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 Check. I reread the article twice and here are my questions: I finally found the hash marks on the camshaft sprockets! They were tiny and unobtrusive so I had to look very very closely. That deserves a dancing banana. So these go to the top position. Sweet. Does the crack sprocket have to go to the top position too? Do I use the notch to position that? I think I might be able to get this... Cheers, Morgan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTMorgan Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 you are using the wrong marks to line up the crank a cam pulleys. if ytou don't have a haynes repair manual, search here for the correct info. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php I do have the Hayes manual, but it's far less accurate than any of the information that I have found here. It doesn't even seem to mention the alignment marks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 look for the hash marks on the rear of the crank sprocket, it goes up. look for the aligning marks on the engine / timing housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 Just did my 95. The mark on the crankshaft gear is a vertical slash on the back of the gear. The arrow, not used, is more or less in the 3:00 position in the photo. I had to remove the passenger side camshaft sprocket to install the new belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 And that picture shows it slightly off too. Just poking a little fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 Beside the EndWrench link already given, here are more that might help: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avk Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 And that picture shows it slightly off too. Just poking a little fun. And the picture shows obsolete idler rollers (the smooth ones) with single-row bearings. But doesn't matter if you change them along with the timing belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTMorgan Posted May 30, 2009 Author Share Posted May 30, 2009 Cheers fellas. I'm going to give it a shot in the next couple of days, tomorrow or Monday. I'll let you know how it works. Thanks, GTMorgan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTMorgan Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share Posted June 4, 2009 I just drove it around the block. The problem I was having was 1st not knowing where the marks were. Thanks a ton for the photo and the explanation. I would have never even seen those marks had you not pointed them out. I had a hard time getting the tensioner closed. Had to pull some tricky stuff to get it closed and it took me forever to get the drill bit that I had put in the holes out. I just drove it around the block and everything seems fine. It seems like it runs a tiny bit rougher then it used to, but it also that I might be paying a lot more attention. Again, thanks to all. I never would have been able to fix the car without the help of everyone on this message board, and having a car again is going to increase the quality of my life exponentially. Cheers, Morgan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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