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Sensors are making my hair fall out


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I need to get my car through deq. It stinks it is an ea82 I think, it is the 1.8l. I replaced the O2 sensor, my check engine light is still on. So I disconnected my maf sensor and it seemed to do nothing, however when I plug it in the rpm's drop a little bit and then go back. When i disconnect the air hose from the air box an maf the car dies. When i disconnect the big sensor on the throttle body which I assume is a TPS there is absolutely no change to anything. When I drive my car (automatic) it hesitates and almost dies on take off. it also seems to be gutless. Any advice will be great!!!

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Are these motors zero tolerance?

 

I mean that the problem was solved because I installed a new belt and it never came back. When I got the car it had 114k on it. Belt snapped at 118k. I had tried everything I could think of - even checked the timing at idle. Flushed the tranny, etc. It was the belt on it's way out that was causing it and I had no way to know that till it snapped being I didn't know the vehicle history.

 

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Okay, how do I check the codes? I have been searching, I know how to put it in diagnostic mode now, I just don't know what to do now.

 

Plug in the green connectors and read the flashing codes from the LED on the front panel of the ECU. You have to remove the panel from under the dash on the drivers side to see it. It will flash in the standard long/short code sequence indicating first and last number's of the two digit code. Then you just reference them to a code table such as the one in the PDF copy of the fuel section out of the FSM at the bottom of my SPFI conversion write up:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html

 

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ok, so my read plugs have been plugged in for God knows how long!! no more check engine light. However my exhaust still stinks and my car still hesitates.

 

Read in the PDF on how to run a full D-Check. It's a full procedure where you depress the gas pedal to the floor with the key in the run posistion (engine off), then return to half-throttle, etc, etc. Then you have to drive over 5 MPH for a specific distance. Look for the procedure in the PDF's and follow it. It's often the case that you will get codes with a full d-check that didn't show in u-check.

 

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Well I went down to Costless and got some seafoam and my car is not lugging down on takeoff anymore. It also doesn't seem to smell nearly as bad. so we will have to see how long me and my subi can be friends for this time.

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ok, so the sea foam worked for two days, now all the problems are back, I did the full d check and it is not throwing any codes. Would the fuel pressure regulator be a good place to start?

 

I doubt fuel pressure is your problem. They never fail.

 

Have you checked the timing belt tension?

 

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