crockettbrat Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 Ok so I just undid several feet of electrical tape and here's how I powered my rig: On the main ignition relay: the two yellow wires are tied to my fused wire direct from the battery. This fused wire also goes to the ECU memory. The green wire goes to switched power from the EA harness. I tied it into the wiring from the ignition switch (couldn't see which one, but not hard to figure out). The black/white wire goes to ground. I attached mine to the frame that holds the steering column. The yellow/red wire next to the green wire goes to power the ej harness (ie- attaches to other yellow red wires). The yellow/red wire by the black/white wire also goes to power the ej harness, but also splits off to supply power to both yellow wires to the fuel pump relay. On the fuel pump relay: Large and small yellow wires tied into yellow/red from ignition relay as stated above. Also there is a small yellow wire tied in at the same place that goes up to the ecu (I couldn't see pin that it went to but could maybe dig deeper if need be). The green/black wire goes up to the smj and I dont remember where from there. The black/red wire goes to the fuel pump. Hope this helps. Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 Thanks much! I will go try this out right now and see what comes up. Hopefully its just an issue of misplaced wire somewhere. Although I don't know how that would be making my fuel injector wires at the ECU have no power...Chances are pretty good I am thinking too much. I will update shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 Ok so I redid the wiring like you have it im just trying to figure out the green wire still. I have it wired into the ignition (put it with the rear defogger since I don't have one) Im just curious about it because on the FSM page it shows the green wire leave the ecu, split, Wire A goes to the diode then off to the alternator, Wire B goes through the SMJ, and to the ignition relay. Should I just splice a wire into the green and hook it up to a switched spot on my fuse box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 My green wire goes from the main relay over to a pink plug off the steering column. I believe this goes up to the ingition switch. The pink plug has 4 wires: blue, white, black/white and black. I tied my green wire into the black wire. One side of the pink plug goes up the column and the other side goes to the ea harness. I tied in on the harness side of the plug. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 Ok I spliced a line from the green wire to the black wire, I put it in the fuse box under rear defroster since I don't have one (It's on the black wire from the column, I checked). That effectively does the same thing as you did. I am just hesitant to remove the diode and etc so the line runs only from the relay to ignition. But with the green wire hooked up to ignition as well as its other places now, I can hear the fuel pump turn on as well as the main relay click. Still no ignition and my dash clock, and brake light stay on even after the key is removed. Pulling out the main relay fixes that.... Man i sure do love wiring... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 You are very close then! I would double check ground wires. I had to play with mine for a while. Did you ground the engine? There is a ground wire from the drivers side of the engine up to the battery negative. I've got grounds all over the engine compartment. Do you now have voltage at the coil pack? Are you getting spark? D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 Still not getting power at the ignition coil. Still trying to figure out why my clock and e brake light stay on AFTER my key is out of the ignition. Also re-reading through the FSM wiring diagrams trying to see if there is a random wire I missed somewhere. I really would like to have this thing running today. Wife starts school again tomorrow which means I either get it in condition good enough to drive the little ways to work, or bike. Getting to work is fast and easy, all downhill coming home is... less than exciting. I am pretty stoked to hear the EJ22 roar with only a Y pipe on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 Ok, so you've got fuel but no spark, so figure out the power to the coil The gray plug at the coil has three wires. Red, yellow, blue. The yellow wire should be hooked up to switched power(ie from the yellow red wires coming from your main relay. You should have battery voltage at that yellow wire when the ignition is on. Follow that yellow wire back from that plug. Its probably not connected to power if you aren't getting any voltage. IIRC it winds its way back to the smj. Just trace it back or string a temp wire to it and see if you get spark. You're close man! Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 GAR, its finally got power. but still not starting. gonna test for spark after family leaves. I feel a lot closer now than before. Thanks much daniel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 I would recommend you go to pgs 23-24 in the ea2ej make sure each thing that is supposed to have switched or unswitched power is getting it. There aren't that many things, but each one could make your car not run. I would start with b48 pins 2 and 13. This is the switched power to the ecu. You should have battery voltage there when the ignition is on. Good luck. Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 When you say the clock and brake light are you taking about the brake light warning light on the dash or your brake lights? Assuming you mean the warning light then I'd say your ingnition switch might be wearing out. Mine is kind of wonky too. Sometimes my brat wont fire up while cranking and wiggling the key in the ignition solves the problem. I know I'll have to replace the thing someday, but for whatever reason my switched power doesnt make it to the main relay until I wiggle the key every once in a while. I can normally tell before I try to start it because I turn on the ignition and the volt meter doesn't come on. Did these things happen before you strung the green wire to your rear defrost fuse? If not I'd move that to another location. Also do you know that the main ignition relay is a good one? Maybe its not functioning properly and this is your problem. Might be worth getting another one. Have you checked both yellow red wires for battery voltage with the ignition on and off to confirm voltage is getting through the relay and powering your ej harness? Hope this helps. Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 11, 2009 Author Share Posted August 11, 2009 I am a freaking genius.... my fuel pump is bad. After checking spark and pinouts and wire routing all afternoon, listening to the car turn over wanting to start I finally checked for fuel and was getting NOTHING. My buddy is going to the junkyard while I am at work to try and snag me another fuel pump (hopefully it works). Other than that I was getting perfect readings everywhere across the ECU. that means with the fuel pump it should start! then its just trying to find where a few bloody guage wires go (i can't understand the back of my instrument cluster to save my life), and then I can put stuff together! Be prepared for many dancing bananas if this works. I would ad some pictures but my internet is down and my thumbs are hurting from typing this on my palm centro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 Great! Congrats! I can help you with the dash stuff if you need it. You only need the vss and cel right? Both are cake. You probably already have a bulb in the dash for the cel light. Mine did. Good work. Cheers, Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STI_Wolf Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 make sure you have vid recording when you first start it up! none of that "first start after its been runing for an hour" crap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 11, 2009 Author Share Posted August 11, 2009 So I have done everything electrical I can to make it start. Well everything except double check that my fuel pump is working... pulled it last night and it will pull fuel into it as much as it can, but nothing comes out. My buddy is going to try and get me one from the junkyard today hopefully. other than that i should be set. my ecu has proper voltages throughout it and I am getting spark. if he finds me a pump today then it should be running tonight! Then I just need to figure out how to hook up my CEL properly, and my charge indicator. I need to read through GD's spfi write up again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 The cel light is cake. There is a wire from the ecu. String it up to the round plug behind your gauges. Remove the CEL bulb and follow the electrical path on the printed electrical sheet on the back of the gauges to the pins where the round plug goes. Your round plug will have a few empty spots on it and one of them will be where you need to put the wire from the ecu. Find an electrical connector at your auto parts store that looks like the other ones in the round plug and attach the wire to the ecu and put it in the round plug. You will also need to do the vss. I'll do a search because I know I posted up what I did and I'll post a link to it. Also very simple. There are two wires coming out of the back of the speedo. You just attach them to the vss wires coming out of the ecu. Done. I'll find the posting about this. Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 So for the vss there is a plug coming out of the back of the speedo with a yellow red wire and black wire. Ground the black wire and run the vss wire from the ecu (b58 pin 11) to the yellow/red wire. That should do it. Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 Sorry for so many posts, but I just thought of something. How much gas do you have in your tank? When the brat gets below a quater tank and I'm going around corners, sometimes it gets fuel starved. I've actually run it out of gas a couple times forgetting to refill before the tank gets to the point the fuel light come on and I've killed my battery trying to get the fuel pump to draw fuel again. If you are low on fuel this could be the problem. Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 12, 2009 Author Share Posted August 12, 2009 IT STARTED LAST NIGHT!!!!! *insert a couple thousand dancing bananas here* With only the Y pipe its got a REAL nice grumble. Got the wires taped up and started to hide them up under the dash. My tach is working and so is my CEL light. The first start was REALLY rough, (i will post a video later today if the internet at home works) But everytime afterwards it starts fast and runs smooth. Now here is my list of things to do: -get dash trim put back together -figure out what to do with my air box that doesn't fit in the brat's engine compartment -get radiator fans mounted -build 2" lift -get the bigger tires (thinking 205/75R15 dunlop radial rovers AT) -6 lug conversion -extend 4wd linkage to fit the brat's 4wd selector -wire up the plug on the trans for the 4wd lo light and reverse lights. so i got plenty left to do, but it starts and runs. It can move forward, and back. couldn't get it put together enough to make a decent drive last night, so that is the plan for today. cruise the neighborhood without an exhaust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 Congrats!! Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sxe111 Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Nice work. Hopefully your neighbors don't mind. I know I got a few dirty looks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 nice sounds like you had similar problems as i did on my EJ swap. i honestly think the EJ swap is the best mod of all for this older chassis. im running mine on the 5sp d/r and 27/9.50 SSR's and its got PLENTY of power. watch out when its wet if you are in FWD its very easy to spin the tires, took me about a week of driving it every day to get it down so i don't unless i want to. congrats, doesn't it feel awesome to hear it run now after all that work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 15, 2009 Author Share Posted August 15, 2009 Plenty of power is right! This puppy hauls pretty good! Finally got some internet back so I can give a little update. The CEL, battery, and tach are all working good. I haven't hooked up the oil light, or another one (can't think of it right now. I got the car mostly back together to suffice my needs. ordering a few parts for it tonight to mount the radiator fan. Hopefully I can order the new tires also soon. I am planning on making the lift tomorrow or sometime next week. I am trying something a little different than the usual homemade blocks on each nut. pictures and excellent diagrams will come also. This is where the drafting designer in me gets giddy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 15, 2009 Author Share Posted August 15, 2009 hmmmmm.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Don't forget to keep your 15 degree angle on your tophats. I posted a reply to you in kellyrays thread on tires and things I would do different next time. P.S. Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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