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MG McAnick

'99 Legacy Outback 2.5 jumped timing, still need advice

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Some of you very helpful folks will remember my original posting about my friend's car that was running fine, about 65 MPH and suddenly could barely make 40. It had low, not no, compression on 1&3. I thought an update was in order, in a new theread. It appears as though one of the idlers has shucked its bearing. The tech found a bearing seal inside the timing right cover, but we haven't seen the bearing yet. (More below) The valve timing is still OK on the 2-4 side but appears to be off by about four notches on the 1-3 side. When both valves are closed on #s 1 & 3, they hold air from a compressor. With it being just that far out of time, what are the chances that the valves on that side are not bent?

 

I suspect that the last time the timing belt was replaced the tech didn't replace the idlers or tensioner. Hey, they are expensive. The former owner may have been a cheapskate. So is my friend. Autozone gets $270 for the kit. By the time it was ascertained that they should probably be replaced this time, the dealer was closed. I suspect he will be more expensive, but he may have them in stock. My A-Z is three days out. Has anyone ever pressed out and replaced the bearings within their housings? I have not seen them off of the engine yet, but a lot of bearings simply PRESS into place. This would probably be far chea,per than a set from any source, and frankly as a certified buyer of aircraft parts I am well aware that a premium bearing is a premium beraring. Yes, Wichita has built over half of the airplanes EVER built, and I helped. What do you all think? Try it, or forget it?

 

The reason we have not seen the idlers off of the engine yet is that the mechanic is having a great deal of trouble getting the crankshaft pulley off of the crankshaft. Any ideas? The book says use a "chain wrench" but neither of us have one. We may be able to borrow one tomorrow if that's our only hope. It's not something weird like a left hand thread is it?

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Only 4 teeth off you have a decent chance at no bent valves.

 

I wouldn't mess with trying to put new bearings in the idlers, not worth the time and effort. The dealers stock them.

 

To get the crank pulley off wedge a prybar in the flywheel opening behind the intake manifold.

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the mechanic is having a great deal of trouble getting the crankshaft pulley off of the crankshaft.
? that's odd. they are tight, but a mechanic should have done this like 100 times, i have and i'm not a mechanic. basic stuff, the "bump the starter" method works 100% of the time (just don't screw it up!) Edited by grossgary

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? that's odd. they are tight, but a mechanic should have done this like 100 times, i have and i'm not a mechanic. basic stuff, the "bump the starter" method works 100% of the time (just don't screw it up!)

 

Well, he's a very good mechainc, he's just not a Subaru mechanic. Those are few and far between around here. No one suggested anyone when I asked, so I went with the devil I know. He has always figured anything out that I've thrown at him, given a good manual and a little time. He's conscientious enough that he doesn't want to mess anything up. There are those who will charge ahead blindly and break things in the process. Which mechanic would you rather use? I think I made the best choice available at this time.

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Only 4 teeth off you have a decent chance at no bent valves.

 

I wouldn't mess with trying to put new bearings in the idlers, not worth the time and effort. The dealers stock them.

 

To get the crank pulley off wedge a prybar in the flywheel opening behind the intake manifold.

 

the deer hit 99 obw my brother bought had the passenger side belt off a few teeth like this. Didnt even have to remove the belt or tensioner to reset the timing to correct. It did not bend the valves, runs great. When the deer hit the car, it drove the radiator and fans back enough to rub into the t belt cover, but no other damage to the sprockets or anything. when the auction sight started the car to run it into auction, the belts and stuff were squeeling at that time and that probably when it jumped.

the idler pulley for AC was pushed into the fornt cover just enough, and the way the belts were riding, the extra tension on the belt probably jumped it a few.

all is good now

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A jump of four teeth is significant, although your friend could get lucky. You said ''When both valves are closed on #s 1 & 3, they hold air from a compressor.'' -- if leak-down percentage wasn't determined, that might not be enough to guarantee that there's no valve damage. Still, its probably worthwhile to replace the timing belt and related parts and see what happens. Depending on what was done when the belt was last replaced, it might be time for a water pump, some seals, etc.

 

Thread discussing crank bolt removal: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48091

 

 

Timing belt info, especially useful to those who might not have done it before:

 

Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5:

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf

 

2.5 Liter DOHC timing belt:

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.5Timing.pdf

http://endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtTimingBeltReplaceF00.pdf

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/StepEWAug07.pdf

 

EDIT: Thread discussing t-belt/idler/tensioner kits: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95187

Edited by OB99W
Added link

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updated links:

 

Thread discussing crank bolt removal: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48091

 

 

Timing belt info, especially useful to those who might not have done it before:

 

Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5:

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf

 

2.5 Liter DOHC timing belt:

http://endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtTimingBeltReplaceF00.pdf

 

EDIT: Thread discussing t-belt/idler/tensioner kits: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95187

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updated links:

 

Thread discussing crank bolt removal: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48091

 

 

Timing belt info, especially useful to those who might not have done it before:

 

Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5:

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf

 

2.5 Liter DOHC timing belt:

http://endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtTimingBeltReplaceF00.pdf

 

EDIT: Thread discussing t-belt/idler/tensioner kits: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95187

 

 

timingbeltdiagram.gif

 

timingbeltdiagramej25.gif

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Big problem here....jumped timing and went to fix it and it ran but misfiring on all 4, made it to and from work...went to correct the timing and now smoke comes out the intake....how can i tell which cam pulley to move...i have to get this fixed tonight...please help...i have the hydraulic tensioner as well and its a pain...

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