rvac99 Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 Running on four cylinders again but still have P0340. It threw a P0341 first. I cleared the light and the moment I touched the gas the CEL came back on with our old friend 0340. I’m going to start over again with the wire checks and look for more conductivity where it should not be. Should I use anything special to clean the connectors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Progress, apparently! I'm glad to read that you're ''firing on all fours'' now. The unwanted conduction may have weakened sensor pulses, cross-coupled them, or some combination. From my experience with salt getting into the connectors, the best results I've gotten is from first cleaning with lots of water, then using alcohol as a water displacing and drying agent. Finally, drying thoroughly. Since B21 needed cleaning, B22 might also. You had mentioned adding some ground wiring. Depending on where it's located, sometimes that can cause ground loops that actually make sensor signals noisy. I'd remove that wiring and see what happens -- if things don't get worse, leave it off. Be sure that the body harness sensor shield (''sheath'') is back in place. It's there to prevent stray signals from getting to the ECU. When the ECU has been reset, it's usually a good idea to start the engine and let it idle for about 10 minutes (with the hood closed so things warm and dry) without touching the gas pedal. If none of the above helps, try that and let us know if the cam codes return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Log1call Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Good work Guys. First guess would have been camtiming but you have been there. I was just about to say, before Ob99w beat me to it... Don't over-look the fact that those sheided wires are sheilded for a reason; to stop interference. You wouldn't have a bad connection on the sheiding, a miss-routed wire that was too close to a H.T. source, an H.T jumping causing interference? Also, could the temp and the cam share the same earth, or, the temp and the sheiling's earth are shared... but broken/loose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvac99 Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 The one wire change I did and have since undone was a suspected ground wire that actually went off to my defroster system. I had to replace the fuse. A second wire change was the addition of a ground wire from the engine to the frame. Greetings Log1call. I suspected the grounds and checked them. I’ve seen weird things happen when a ground comes lose before. My wires are clean, well protected and not subject to any abnormal heat that I can tell. I never opened up any of the shielding on the wires in question. I found the green goo in the plug and when I cleaned it my disconnected wires showed infinite resistance like they should have. I’m going to check everything again today. My ground wires from the ECM side all checked out for connectors B134 and B136. My wire diagrams did not have accurate data for B135. I have a manual trans. and diagrams say B135/25 is a ground. I physically don’t have a wire at that position. Two wires tested for ground on that connector (disconnected) #7-GRN/RED, and #28-WHT/BLU. I’m going to test, clean, and test today and see what results I get this time. I’ve been keeping notes so I’m hoping it is a dirty connector just like B21. I cleaned B22 but I did not disassemble E2 or the plug for B22. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvac99 Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 Both the cam and crank sensor wires were showing continuity with the ground through E2 (B21 disconnected). I also found cont. w/grnd. on the injector wires when B22, B21 were disconnected. Fully disassembled B21, and B22 and their respective plugs, cleaned, and now they are drying. I also sprayed all the other plugs/connectors on the engine including the CTS. I bought a large tube of dielectric grease that I will be applying to all connectors when they are dry. I used a solution on water and baking soda first, then water. Each plug then got a little splash of alcohol and now air drying. We'll see if that works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Using a hair dryer is a good fast way to dry things out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvac99 Posted July 9, 2009 Author Share Posted July 9, 2009 Back running like normal! I removed the engine wire harness and fully disassembled the plugs (for B21 and B22). They were all wet inside and I had continuity from the ground wires and the insulation on many sets of wires and the plugs themselves. What I think happened originated with that bad CTS. I over tightened it and opened up the internal part of the sensor to the engine coolant. The coolant made its way through the sensor to the electrical plug. From there it was capillary action taking it down to the plugs for B21 and B22. The rubber seals around each wire on plug E2 had failed. The four involving the cam and crank sensors were especially wet. The fuel injector wires in the plug for B22 also had bad seals. Yesterday’s initial tests showed continuity with the ground from multiple locations including the crank position sensor, fuel injector yellow wire, and black and yellow wire from the CTS plug. Both B22 and B21 were disconnected. I had to remove the engine wire harness because cleaning of the CTS plug was very difficult. Thank you OB99W, Cougar, and Log1call for all your help. I really don’t know what I would have done with out it. Your friend, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Wow! Amazing thread--good job all around, gentlemen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Back running like normal! [...]Thank you OB99W, Cougar, and Log1call for all your help. I really don’t know what I would have done with out it. Wonderful, a happy ending! Thanks for the recognition. Rob/rvac99, you also deserve credit for sticking with the problem until the resolution. It's sometimes hard for us who aren't able to use our own eyes, hands, etc., to be precise in diagnosing a problem, so it's gratifying when the person who's actually doing the job can give us enough feedback to work with. Congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 By the way, if the engine was run enough while excessively rich, the oil might be fuel-contaminated. If it smells that way, or if the oil level seems higher than it should be, it could be prudent to change it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvac99 Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 (edited) Thank you again OB99W. And thank you to the Ultimate Subaru Message Board. I can’t imagine what I would have done with out this assistance. My hope now is that someday someone else will be helped by this dialogue. I'd also like to thank Rick and Mike. Rick was more than generous and was also a huge help. Edited July 10, 2009 by rvac99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 (edited) You're welcome for the help and glad to hear you got the problem straightened out. The Cat was laying low on this one but was ready to pounce if needed. Edited July 11, 2009 by Cougar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Log1call Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 Yup, well done Rvac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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