jermany755 Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 Hey guys, I'm getting ready to rip the engine out of my '01 impreza rs (120,000 mi). I've had an external coolant (headgasket) leak for about a year now and have just been adding coolant as necessary. Well... now I'm losing oil as well and I'm pretty sure it's getting into my coolant as it's looking distinctly muddy lately. Although it is hard to get a good look down the reservoir. So anyways I figure now is as good a time as any to do a bunch of high-mileage maintenance. I'm planning on taking the heads off to replace the headgaskets as well as changing the water pump, oil pump, timing belt, v-belts, clutch, all fluids, and any other seals or gaskets I can get my hands on. I'd like to keep the heads and shortblock intact because I'm not comfortable taking them apart myself and am on a pretty tight budget. I would, however, like to send my heads to a machine shop to make sure they are within spec as far as warping and all that. Will a shop still be able to test for that stuff with assembled heads? Here's my shopping list so far, although I'll update it later as I'm listing this from memory: Overhaul Gasket Set - $218.60 Oil Pump - (already have) Water Pump - $71.96 AC Belt - $10.04 Alternator and P/S Belt - $10.76 Radiator - (already have) Upper Radiator Hose - $10.04 Lower Radiator Hose - $10.04 (There are also left and right front hoses listed. Which should I be getting?) Thermostat - (already have) Clutch and Pressure Plate - (already have) Pilot Bearing - $8.81 Release Bearing - $30.52 Idler Pulley #1 - $53.96 Idler Pulley #2 - $30.13 (It looks like there are 3 different idler pulleys showing in the shop manual illustration. Anyone know how many of each of these I need?) Tensioner - $107.96 Timing Belt - $64.76 All prices are quoted from http://www.1stsubaruparts.com Some stuff I already had from when I was gathering parts for a turbo swap. (Aluminum radiator, ACT street clutch, Crucial thermostat, etc.) I know that the overhaul gasket set doesn't come with spark plug or head cover seals, but I just did those recently so I'll re-use them pending inspection. The spark plugs and wires as well. Anything obvious that you guys can see that I'm missing? Thanks. I'll be getting started this weekend as I have the next couple of weeks off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 2000-2002 EJ25's had a 100,000 mile extended headgasket warranty campaign, too bad it looks like you missed that? Suggestions for thought: Clutch retaining clips - you'll need two. There are three idler pulleys, I believe two are identical (the $50 one, but check to be sure). Some of your pulleys might be fine, that $30 sprocketed pulley though will almost surely need replaced. The others have a chance of being in good condition so you can consider buying those locally and returning if you don't need them. I just pulled a 115,000 mile 1998 OBW apart and 2 of the pulleys felt like brand new, but I don't consider that the norm either. machine shops normally get assembled heads, they're used to that. they won't have any problems with it. one suggestion is to call Subaru and ask them who does their machine shop work like this. then you're getting specific Subaru experience. Headgaskets are almost essential to use Subaru, it appears you're getting a Subaru kit for those. You won't need a new oil pump, they don't fail. It only needs resealed - one oring, crank seal (both of which you need for your new oil pump), and tighten the rear backing plate screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 I always replace the rear main seal regardless of the condition it is in. You can make the tool to drive it with some PVC pipe from Home depot. Just bring the old one into home depot so you can get the right size pipe. Do not use a screw driver to remove that seal us a seal puller such as this one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lisle-Tools-58430-Shaft-Type-Seal-Puller_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem3a502c83f2QQitemZ250453197810QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 Please do some searching around here before replacing the rear main seal. Most here will advise against it. Including me. Not wanting to start a pissing contest thought. It does seem counterintuitive. But of all the engines that I remove usually the rear main has stuff on it from the baffle plate leaking. The only rear main's that are truely leaking are ones that have been replaced. What does that tell ya? Anyways I usually do 95-99's and a few 2000 2.5 SOHC's with the metal baffle plate. So I guess I'm not much of an expert. But yes - a PVC collar works great for all the seals on a Suby. Infact the crank and cam seals are close enough that you can use the same piece of PVC for them. I replace everything except the main seal (by choice - unless it's definately leaking). Crank & cam seals, reseal baffle plate (whether leaking or not), usually valve covers and the plug Oriings. On the older 2.2's the cam Orings. Idlers, tensioner idler or if new style whole tensioner. All belts, usually both rad hoses, new coolant, spark plugs, etc. I do a decent amount of Suby's and replace about one rear main per year. My local dealer doesn't even stock them - what does that tell ya? A lot of the mechanics have their "private stash" and I end up getting one of those and the dealership orders one for me to replace it. Actually whether to replace the rear main would make an excellent pole here. For all I know it's already been done. I know my decision so it's not worth trying to figure out how to conduct a pole. But I would be curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 I knew this would start a fire storm. Here is the problem with replacing it. Its a big seal and without the tool to drive it on the right way it will leak. You can make the tool at home depot. If you drive it on correctly it will not leak. If you go to the dealer and pick one up they will have a stack of them there. That means they are replacing them often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99ImprezaOSport Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 I recently did a head job on a 99 2.2L Impreza OBS. when I took the engine out baffle plate looked in better shape (leakwise) than the rear main. The rear main was leaking. I ended up replacing both. I used the old seal to tap in the new one. I noticed there was about 3/8" of space between the back of the seal and the actual oil drain? I tapped mine in about 1/32" of a inch beyond flush. Mine is not leaking. before clean-up: http://www.edwardsatterfield.com/car/images/1999SubaruImprezzaOB%20027.jpg after: http://www.edwardsatterfield.com/car/images/1999SubaruImprezzaOB%20032.jpg As for parts, it seems once the engine was out everything was EASY. Replace anything that seems or would be a pain replacing with the engine in... a few extra dollars now might avoid a lot of extra time later. BTW I documented the entire process... http://www.edwardsatterfield.com/car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jermany755 Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 Wow nice! What did you use to clean your parts with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99ImprezaOSport Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 LOTS OF ELBOW GREASE Some spray on parts cleaner/brake cleaner. Real "eco-friendly" stuff that I actually had to move away from being inside my engine compartment a few times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 LOTS OF ELBOW GREASE Some spray on parts cleaner/brake cleaner. Real "eco-friendly" stuff that I actually had to move away from being inside my engine compartment a few times. nice pictures when the weather warms I will be doing the same minus taking off the heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 I recently did a head job on a 99 2.2L Impreza OBS. when I took the engine out baffle plate looked in better shape (leakwise) than the rear main. The rear main was leaking. I ended up replacing both. I used the old seal to tap in the new one. I noticed there was about 3/8" of space between the back of the seal and the actual oil drain? I tapped mine in about 1/32" of a inch beyond flush. Mine is not leaking. before clean-up: http://www.edwardsatterfield.com/car/images/1999SubaruImprezzaOB%20027.jpg after: http://www.edwardsatterfield.com/car/images/1999SubaruImprezzaOB%20032.jpg As for parts, it seems once the engine was out everything was EASY. Replace anything that seems or would be a pain replacing with the engine in... a few extra dollars now might avoid a lot of extra time later. BTW I documented the entire process... http://www.edwardsatterfield.com/car excellent pics...thanks for sharing I will have to do my neices clutch at some point in the future...what can you tell me about the ACT clutch components (did you just get the flywheel form them or clutch and P plate as well)?. Do they feel much different than the stock subaru components when shifting? Are you happy with them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 as for changing the rear main seal... When I did a complete HG job/valve job on my 96 OB 18 months ago, I did not know of all the warnings about how touchy it might be. I got a PVC pipe fitting and just tapped it in slowly and as evenly as possible. I have no problems and would not hesitate to do it again. Be sure to observe/measure how deep the OEM was placed and install to the same depth Interestingly...while I have read posts from some about leaving it alone...I don't remember many posts from others saying they did it and it leaked (now, I simply may not have come across them is all) I would love to hear what Hondasucks thinks about this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 Interestingly...while I have read posts from some about leaving it alone...I don't remember many posts from others saying they did it and it leaked (now, I simply may not have come across them is all) they are out there. if the thing is really leaking by all means replace it, but usually folks assume it is leaking when it is the separator plate. and maybe, by the time they find that out, they already have the rear seal in hand so ..... "may as well". and then it isn't done to spec. i don't know how hard it is to do but there is enough talk about it here to scare me off. it is beyond me why fully seating the seal causes it to leak or why it was designed that way, but i only know what i read here. i hope i never have to do one. "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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