RonZilla Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 Hi all! I'm new to the board, and just bought my first Subaru. I live in Michigan, and we had a rough winter last year, lots of snow. I was happy to find that Subaru has such a great reputation with their AWD. So, I looked for a used Subaru, and found a nice white '97 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 2.2l, automatic, 165,000 miles. My first issue was some binding driving slow around corners. I did some research on here (thanks!, probably saved me some money!) and found that one tire was 1 inch bigger than the others, even though they were all Pirelli's 195, 60, 15's, but one was a different model or something. I bought new tires, and 95% of the binding went away immediately. Now, I don't know when the last trans flush or diff. oil has been done, but the trans oil looks clean. I wanted to ask if I should do it, and add the GM Limited Slip Differential additive to the transmission after the change. What would the pro's do?? Also, the AT oil light flashes 16 times on startup, and I expected that to stop after the tires were changed, and the binding mostly stopped. Does that take some time to go away, or do I have another problem? Ok, and lastly, I was on a 500 mile trip, and the check engine light came on. I stopped at a local car repair shop, and they scanned my computer, and it showed the rear (downstream) O2 sensor had power cutting in and out on it. He suggested I change it out, and he reset the warning light, and it hasn't come back on. I've been looking online for a sensor, and would like some advice on which one I should buy. I would rather not have to cut and splice wiring, if possible. Thanks in advance for all the help, I'm looking forward to any replies. RonZilla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 You don't need the additive, you have an automatic. There is no differential for the rear output, just another clutch pack. The ATF has all the additives it needs. The front differential is sealed separately from the transmission, and has gear oil in it. The binding is likely caused by the output clutch itself. Over time, the clutch plates wear grooves in the inner drum, if you feel so inclined you can pull the rear housing off the transmission and file or sand the inner drum to get rid of the grooves. I did this as a preventive measure while I was replacing the output housing on mine, and have had -zero- bind issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonZilla Posted June 27, 2009 Author Share Posted June 27, 2009 (edited) Thanks for the reply! I myself am no mechanic. I don't own any tools, and don't even change my own oil. Ok, that being said, Do you think a trans flush would help and is order? Anything else I could do? I DO have a friend that is a Master mechanic for Chrysler, so I don't know how much of that translates to Subaru. Probably not a lot for the trans. I just ordered an A/C condenser and he's going to install it for me next week- I'd like to have the O2 sensor and have him do both. Something I should mention- sorry I forgot last post- It seems to bind most in reverse, like in parking lots backing into spaces. It was raining the other day, and the binding was substantial. I've tried driving it in 1st, and no prob. After I bought new tires, I went to a parking lot, and did some circles, and the binding went away. Maybe I should also do this in reverse? That may be funny to you guys, but it shows I really have no idea how this binding happens and all. From what I read, there's a pressure buildup somewhere? Don't know if this helps, or just proves what you already said. Thanks again, and for the quick reply! RonZilla Edited June 27, 2009 by RonZilla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 (edited) This is your transfer clutch: This is where it goes: Although yours is in better shape. What happens is those teeth you can see on the inside in the upper pic wear grooves in the outside of that drum in the lower pic, and keep the clutch engaged more than the computer wants to keep it engaged. If you sand these grooves out, it won't bind. Edited June 28, 2009 by 4x4_Welder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 Great pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonZilla Posted June 28, 2009 Author Share Posted June 28, 2009 I agree, great pics, thanks for posting! That helps explain things. Is taking this apart and sanding or filing the grooves out a big ordeal? As I posted before, I have a friend that is a Master mechanic for Chrysler, I'm not sure he has worked on something like this before. I guess I can ask. If I don't file or sand the grooves down, will it cause damage? The binding is minimal normally, but seems worse in reverse. Also, if anyone has an answer about the AT oil light blinking on startup still, I'd appreciate it. I read somewhere that it takes 40 drive cycles to reset that, and I'm probably close to that now. So, what is the recommended rear O2 sensor for a '97 Impreza Outback Sport? I've looked online, and most seem to be upstream sensors, and some don't even list whether they're up or downstream sensors. I just don't want to waste my money or buy the wrong one. Thanks for the help- I really like my new car, and want it running smoothly so I can expect to keep it for a long time. RonZilla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pearlm30 Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 WOW:eek: What happened to the tail housing? It looks like it broke off somehow???:confused: This is your transfer clutch: This is where it goes: Although yours is in better shape. What happens is those teeth you can see on the inside in the upper pic wear grooves in the outside of that drum in the lower pic, and keep the clutch engaged more than the computer wants to keep it engaged. If you sand these grooves out, it won't bind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 That forward universal joint failed, and when the driveshaft got off balance, it ripped the rear housing off. There isn't anything to really worry about with that bind, it's not like the manual torque bind. I have heard of the 16 blinks thing, I think it has something to do with duty solenoid C- the one that controls the 4x4 engagement. It could be that the computer isn't seeing the correct amount of slip between the sensors. You also have to pull the rear housing off to get to that solenoid, and it's a dealer part. No bad to change at all once it's apart, though. Changing the O2s wouldn't have any effect on the power to it cutting in and out. It might just be a loose plug. Not a really critical thing on the rear one anyways, since after initial warmup it doesn't need to be heated anymore. Rear sensor number for reference is Bosch 15726, universal heated sensor. Usually under $60. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 A fluid change can help alleviate problems, but the longer it's been ongoing the slimmer your chances of success. given that it had mis-matching tires also decreases your chances, but i would have it changed and see how it goes before doing the rear transfer clutches. but good news is it's not that expensive to repair and the trans doesn't have to come out to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonZilla Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 Hi all- thanks for the replies so far! I went to a couple auto parts stores today, one didn't carry the O2 sensor- part Bosch #15726, and the other (Murray's) had it listed as an UPSTREAM. The counter guy at Murray's THINKS that maybe there ISN'T a DOWNSTREAM O2 sensor on this car. There isn't one showing up in their database. When the check engine light came on, and I got it scanned, the mechanic told me it was the DOWNSTREAM sensor. The check engine light has not come back on, about 1000 miles later. The gas mileage has stayed between 25 and 29 MPG, I've checked every fillup. So should I just not worry about this right now? I looked for, and couldn't find a downstream O2 sensor on the car, but that doesn't mean it's not there, somewhere!! Can anyone set me straight on this, please? For reference- it's a 1997 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 2.2l. Thanks! RonZilla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Log1call Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 The fact you get an O2 code does not mean the O2 sensor is faulty. If you have a missfire, rich mixture for any reason, air leak, carbon canister full of fuel... anything that can make the mixture too far out of range(either too rich or too lean), can set a O2 code. These trouble codes are an AID to diagnosis only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 That would be true for an upstream sensor, but the downstream sensor watches the catalytic converter, that's it. It will be right behind the forward cat, the system should go y-pipe with upstream sensor and front cat, then the downstream one is right in the rear of that cat. It's a trade off as to whether the cat or O2s will go first, that sensor see a ton of heat. Your car should have one, that was federally mandated with the change to OBDII in 96. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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