I've been hearing a howling, pulsating sound when I'm moving. It becomes continuous over 60mph. I can feel vibration thru the gas pedal. I checked the u-joints on driveshaft..they're fine. The left front wheel has 1/8th or more vertical play..the right none. Is that wheel bearings? Would that cause the howling & vibration? I'm trying to get another set of jackstands, to lift it completely off the ground, start it up & try to pinpoint the noise. Anybody tried that? Any advice is appreciated, cause I need to get it back on the road. I haven't been driving it, cause I don't want to do more damage.

Thanks, in advance, for your help.

 

~Myles~

More info: Type of car? Milage? Maintenance history? Would help. I'm guessing the sound is from wheel bearings and the movement probably ball joints. There are others on here though who can diagnose a lot better than I.

Yep - that's classic wheel bearings. There should be no play in the wheel at all that you would be able to notice by hand.

 

Front bearings are easy - go to a bearing house and get sealed unit's.

 

GD

Gotta throw this out there...

 

Did you check the tightness of the castle nut on the suspect wheel? and the orientation of the washer (wider side inboard)?

 

reason I ask, is because I had the same experience as you describe. I know I gotta replace my bearings, but the noise warranted an investigation, so when i took a look see... I was shocked that I could tighten the castle nut 2 1/2 turns more, then for insurance, jumped on the wrench, pounded away with a sledge and cheater bar. Took it for a test-drive and all of the annoying noises ceased.

 

I will replace wheel bearings (hopefully after next payday), but for the time being it may be worth checking...

I'm trying to get another set of jackstands, to lift it completely off the ground, start it up & try to pinpoint the noise. Anybody tried that?

~Myles~

 

I've tried that. A couple times. Usually for the exact reason your thinking about. To track down a vibration or a whine. I can tell you that it never worked for me. It seems that the whole dynamics of the drive train changes without the load. So,the noise and vibe's dissapear.

 

In the end,in my situation,it was a u joint on one occasion and a rear wheel bearing on another. I say don't waste your time doing that.

buzz

 

if you need the big socket to get the 36mm nut off I got one Im right off the jordon rd 3or4 miles from subway

I've tried that. A couple times. Usually for the exact reason your thinking about. To track down a vibration or a whine. I can tell you that it never worked for me. It seems that the whole dynamics of the drive train changes without the load. So,the noise and vibe's dissapear.

 

In the end,in my situation,it was a u joint on one occasion and a rear wheel bearing on another. I say don't waste your time doing that.

 

X2 that never works you need the wait of the viehicle

Thanks guys. I'll save my money on the other set of jackstands & start tearing down the wheel. I've got a set of new bearings, I picked up some time ago, but they're not sealed. I'll check the castle nut. Anybody got any recommendations for bearing grease. The high temp red wheelbearing grease is crappy. Does anybody have any other suggestions about where to get a good wheelbearing grease? Thanks. ~Myles~

 

Oh, thanks Bobaru, but I've got the socket.

I have read several threads regarding greasing, over-greasing, and not greasing...

 

If you go the route of open bearings with an application of grease, the FSM calls for 10-13 grams, or 0.35 - 0.46 ounces of bearing grease (type or brand is non-specified), to be applied to the inside of the housing.

 

Some members here have used synthetic oil with the open bearings.

I mention this as I have been made aware that too much grease will cause premature failure of the bearings.

 

In my humble opinion and conclusion, go with sealed bearings (already greased inside, plus extra dust protection), but since you've already got the open bearings, just don't over grease them (it's the oil that drops out of the grease when heated that provides the protection, not the grease)

 

Personally, I am planning to go with NTN brand, part # K8000-52105,(W0133-1633822). These are the sealed type.

 

Just my two cents,... well, actually not mine, I am just regurgitating info I have found...

 

ANYONE: please correct me if I am wrong.

'84 Flat-Four is pretty accurate.

 

I deal with a lot of bearings as part of my job. I can say a couple things:

 

1. The most common cause of bearing failure (by a HUGE margin) is OVER greasing. Too much grease creates friction, allows no place for expansion due to heat, and ultimately decreases bearing life by a factor of 4.

 

2. The second most common cause is contamination - either from the grease breaking down and self-contaminating the bearing, or from seal failure.

 

#1 above is what led to the introduction of sealed and sheilded bearings.

 

If you are going to use the stock style open bearings, then you must use the correct quantity of grease (about 1/4 of the volume of the inside of the bearing chamber). Also there is simply no point in trying to regrease them at any future time - there is no effective way to remove them, flush the old grease and reinstall them without causing unseen damage - plus they are so cheap that it's not worth the effort. All you can do is check and replace the seals if they are bad.

 

Sealed bearings are a good choice. Given the frequency of the bearing housing seal failures it's a no-brainer really.

 

Remember to drive them in using the outer race.

 

As far as brands - F AG (without the space) seems to be as good as any I've found. They are my first choice anyway.

 

GD

To tell if it's wheel bearing. or an axle noise. go for a drive and swerve moderatly hard from left to right. If it's a wheel bearing the noise will get noticably louder when the caar's weight leans on the outside wheel, then it will go quieter as the weight comes off it again as the swerve goes the other way.

 

If it's a diff or axle noise the noise will probably not get louder with the swerving but is likely to change with a change of throttle.