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Couple things to note.

 

When you remove the top bolt that holds the strut to the knuckle, mark it's orientation. It is a camber bolt, so you want to try and get it back in the ball park when you reinstall the new strut.

 

As for orientation of the strut, it'll be obvious. However you want to mark/note the orientation of the upper strut hat (just below the mount). I believe the hats have an arrow that points outward to help with the orientation, but in the event it doesn't or has been corroded over, you should make note of how that top hat sits.

 

An impact gun helps with the removal & installation of that top nut onto the strut shaft.

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I paint with a ralltle can and white paint everywhere that you'll want to pay attention to alignment on re-assembly.

 

When you're done if the white bothers you - paint it Black - no biggie.

 

I do this often. Just did it on rear bumper alignment on my 71 VW bus.

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Clarify - I'm totally down with removing them, done that countless times.

 

Wondering about specifically taking one apart to replace the mounts. I'm not sure what all is in there I've just heard folks talk about it before and it seems like there's lots of little parts and stuff.

 

Don't mind painting them at all, no biggie.

 

Hopefully I get it right.

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I did the front struts on my '93 Legacy and all four on my '97. First tip I can remember (it's been a few years since doing the '97) is when you remove the brake lines from the strut, cut the bracket that holds the line, this will save you the hassle of breaking lose the connection at either end of the brake hose to pull the line through the hole in the bracket. Then when you install the new strut, do the same thing, cut the bracket, slip the hose into the cutout and then bend the bracket back. Second is this, if you are using the typical spring compressor it will barely compress the spring enough to free it from the upper/lower spring seats. I had to reposition the compressor a few times to get it right. Lastly when you reassemble, make certain you get the spring seated in the upper/lower spring seats correctly (very self explanatory) and the spring is oriented correctly, flat end is on the top, inclined is on the bottom. I can send you the FSM section on strut replacement if you would like (from my '97 FSM).

 

From what I remember, overall very doable, on your end, considering your level of expertise, should be a non-event.

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Okay thanks again. Im familiar with removing struts - like i said i've done it many dozens of times.

 

It's the disassembly of the struts themselves I'm concerned about - getting it right and the "seating" and "perches" i'm not familiar with.

 

I have the FSM, I'll take a peak before I dig in.

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No problem. Again, from what I can remember, I didn't have any issues with the breakdown/buildup except for having to reposition the compressor to get a better purchase. The verticle orientation of the spring is self-explanatory and it really sits in the seats one way.

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The verticle orientation of the spring is self-explanatory and it really sits in the seats one way.
great, thanks. i recall folks talking about all sorts of odds and ends, that must be when they're building their own struts from pieces or something or combining stuff for XT6 air suspension conversions to coil over. i always thought there seemed to be like cups and washers and stuff that be installed in the wrong order or upside down.

 

apparently it's simpler than i thought, thanks!

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2 good and strong spring compressors ..tighten down the springs evenly as needed ( an air rachet would help )...mark with a pen the orientation of each part...most importantly never have your "head" in the way of those springs ..just in case one of those compressors let loose

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thanks PS, sounds awfully dangerous. precaution noted, thanks. two spring compressors, wow! i have air tools, why are those good, yo'ure the second person to mention that? just so you don't have to hold the thing yourself?

 

i've heard of folks loosening the top bolts while on the car and then slowly lifting it up with a jack, i guess that's rather silly?

 

not sure why you woudl do that, how would they get it back together anyway?

 

i thought about using the 3 point hitch hydrualics on my Kubota but that's probably not a good idea.

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Gary,

 

I've done more than a few of these. Rear springs are easy to compress but the fronts are real bears. Just notl enough (have enough coils) to grab onto. Just did all 4 on the wagon. Rears I did myself. The fronts I took to a local shop and had them done there. The top perch or cup or whatever you want to call it will have something to indicate this side out. Look for an arrow or dot or something. Other than that, really no way to screw it up. Never trust whatever coil compressor you end up using. Good chance that spring could kill you if it unloads and whacks you in the forehead.

Edited by john in KY
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thanks PS, sounds awfully dangerous. precaution noted, thanks. two spring compressors, wow! i have air tools, why are those good, yo'ure the second person to mention that? just so you don't have to hold the thing yourself?

 

i've heard of folks loosening the top bolts while on the car and then slowly lifting it up with a jack, i guess that's rather silly?

 

not sure why you woudl do that, how would they get it back together anyway?

 

i thought about using the 3 point hitch hydrualics on my Kubota but that's probably not a good idea.

I don't have air tools , but the air ratchet makes it so much easier and I believe safer when turning the nuts on the spring compressor..this way you can keep an arms length away... when you are able to remove the spring completely off the perch just lay it down gently..I got my compressors at harborfreight, real cheap, and I have used them also on my vanagon syncro fronts which have stronger heavier springs with no problem ..with your experience you should have no issues..just work safely Edited by Petersubaru
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i respect John more than just about anyone in the world, so if he takes his in I might be doing the same. the dollar to hassle ratio might be totally worth it.

 

i have a some struts with broken springs so the tips here will still help me disassemble those.

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Taking the fronts apart isn't difficult. I've been known to use nothing more then a spare tire when pulling parts in a wrecking yard. Lay strut on ground, cover coil spring with the spare tire, stand on tire and unscrew that top nut. The strut will shot out the bottom of the coil spring. Crude but it works.

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Air tools just because you're talking a lot of threads on ths spring compressors.

 

Air tools for removal of strut should be self explanatory.

 

Use a paint stick for the orientation. I use the rattle can to mark the bolts that hold the strut to the car (alignment).

 

Someitmes the lower rubber mount for the coil spring will be swelled from oil from the strut. These can be a bit difficult to hold in place while loosening the compressors. I'd evaluate yours before teardown and perhaps teardown others to get this rubber piece if needed. Don't know if the dealer or a parts store sells them. When I have needed them I've had other struts to steal the part from.

 

But yea - one of those wall mount gizmos are really nice for work like this. Very pricey. But may be worth the few bucks to have someone with the correct tools to replace the mounts.

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