I'm having a really hard time with my latest project, and since I just moved to PDX, I'm not sure who has what. I'm looking for the fancy tool that pulls the axle through the hub. Hammering, tightening the castle nut, and screwdrivers don't seem to work. I don't know what I'll do if the Brat isn't ready for the next rallyx, so any help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

Jacob

Drop by some time and we'll make one .

 

Just need to pickup some tubing and some all-thread.

 

Or you could bake the hubs at 225* for a few hours and put the axles in the freezer - then they should just drop in.

 

Fancy tools are for people with too much money and not enough imagination.

 

GD

I have one, but I'm up in Longview now, so it's a bit late to tackle this tonight. Unless you want to throw a BIG steak in with the beer and it better be good beer. PM me your digits and we can arrange something.

I have one, but I'm up in Longview now, so it's a bit late to tackle this tonight. Unless you want to throw a BIG steak in with the beer and it better be good beer. PM me your digits and we can arrange something.

 

I'm a vegetarian, but PM sent regardless:)

 

Jacob

Ive had that problem before as well and i didnt have the tool so i unbolted the front of the hub (those 4 bolts) and then put the axle through the back, popped the washer and the nut on and pulled it through with the nut a bit. Then i put the front of the hub back on and pulled it through the rest of the way.

Ive had that problem before as well and i didnt have the tool so i unbolted the front of the hub (those 4 bolts) and then put the axle through the back, popped the washer and the nut on and pulled it through with the nut a bit. Then i put the front of the hub back on and pulled it through the rest of the way.

 

I tried that method for about an hour last night. That thing is just not going through the hub. I even tried two different axles. The castle nut would snug up, then the whole axle assembly would start spinning. With the force needed to tighten the nut with one hand, I couldn't keep the axle from spinning with the other hand.

 

Thanks though.

 

Jacob

Try the freezer/oven method. Should make it much easier and no tool required.

 

GD

Try the freezer/oven method. Should make it much easier and no tool required.

 

GD

 

I still haven't found a place yet, so the person whose couch I'm sleeping on would probably boot me onto the street if I tried that. I could get away with some ice cubes and a lighter though:)

 

Jacob

I'm having a really hard time with my latest project, and since I just moved to PDX, I'm not sure who has what. I'm looking for the fancy tool that pulls the axle through the hub. Hammering, tightening the castle nut, and screwdrivers don't seem to work. I don't know what I'll do if the Brat isn't ready for the next rallyx, so any help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

Jacob

Jacob, I have the axle tool but I'm not in PDX. If you don't find one locally, drop me a UPS shippable address (no P.O. box) and I'll send it to you on Monday or Tuesday and you'll have it by Wednesday. Other than that, before I had the tool, I just removed the brake hub, put back the castle nut and pried forward with two screwdrivers. Then I added large washers under the nut and pried some more. It only takes 6 large washers to pry the axle all the way into place. Then replace the hub and you can take it from there. Good luck; you can return the axle tool at the RX since I plan to be there.

If youve got some old wheel bearings around you can use them as spacers, then tighten the castle nut to pull the shaft through. You'll need to grind the first bearing down a bit so it doesn't seat in the hub.

I just removed the brake hub, put back the castle nut and pried forward with two screwdrivers. Then I added large washers under the nut and pried some more. It only takes 6 large washers to pry the axle all the way into place. Then replace the hub and you can take it from there. Good luck; you can return the axle tool at the RX since I plan to be there.

 

X2. Just did that the other day when my axle went kaboom while I was backing up at full lock

X2. Just did that the other day when my axle went kaboom while I was backing up at full lock

 

Trust me, I've read up on the different methods here, and I'm so far none of them have worked. It's weird, because I've changed the axle on that side about 3 or so times with no issues.

 

Jacob

Trust me, I've read up on the different methods here, and I'm so far none of them have worked. It's weird, because I've changed the axle on that side about 3 or so times with no issues.

 

Jacob

Are you sure you don't have an oversize axle? Never heard of that before but maybe it could happen. At this point, I'd have it towed to Superior Import Repair and let richierich have a crack at it.

 

There's not a lot of time before the RallyX this weekend.

 

By the way, any idea what the run order is going to be on Sunday? It hasn't been posted yet.

Are you sure you don't have an oversize axle? Never heard of that before but maybe it could happen. At this point, I'd have it towed to Superior Import Repair and let richierich have a crack at it.

 

There's not a lot of time before the RallyX this weekend.

 

By the way, any idea what the run order is going to be on Sunday? It hasn't been posted yet.

 

I think it's the new bearings that were making it so hard. Anyway, I took off the hub and pounded it onto the axle with a hammer last night, so I think it's on.

 

I don't remember what the run order was last time, so I can't even guess how it'll work out this weekend.

 

Anyway, thanks to everyone for your offers of help, but hopefully I have it under control now.

 

Jacob

I took off the hub and pounded it onto the axle with a hammer last night.

 

That's REALLY bad for the bearings. You are using the ball-bearings to transfer the force of the hammer blow from the outer race to the inner race and drive them over the shaft. Chances are that those bearings won't last more than 10 or 20 thousand.

 

If you must do it that way, you have to find a peice of tubing or pipe that will slide over the axle shaft but still contact the inner bearing race. But even then it's also quite bad on the axle joints for the same reasons. If I were doing it that way I would also pull the outer boot down and put the axle in a vice resting on the OD of the outer CV joint.

 

It probably wouldn't go in easily because the shaft had a few high spots. It's not at all uncommon to have to dress a shaft in preperation for an interferance fit like that. A thin coating of anti-seize thinned out with a few drops of oil helps immensely in lubricating the fit as well as locating any high spots.

 

It's the small details that make the difference between axles/bearings lasting 100k and lasting 10k. I've owned dozens of EA vehicles and I've replaced a LOT of axles and bearings - but one thing I haven't had to do since I learned the right/wrong way to fit machined parts together is replace one more than once. When I do axles, they STAY done (except when I blow them apart off-road of course).

 

GD

Edited September 15, 200916 yr by GeneralDisorder

I think it's the new bearings that were making it so hard. Anyway, I took off the hub and pounded it onto the axle with a hammer last night, so I think it's on.

 

I don't remember what the run order was last time, so I can't even guess how it'll work out this weekend.

 

Anyway, thanks to everyone for your offers of help, but hopefully I have it under control now.

 

Jacob

Glad you have it together now. I haven't heard anything about run orders for Sunday either. It's still not posted.

That's REALLY bad for the bearings. You are using the ball-bearings to transfer the force of the hammer blow from the outer race to the inner race and drive them over the shaft. Chances are that those bearings won't last more than 10 or 20 thousand.

 

If you must do it that way, you have to find a peice of tubing or pipe that will slide over the axle shaft but still contact the inner bearing race. But even then it's also quite bad on the axle joints for the same reasons. If I were doing it that way I would also pull the outer boot down and put the axle in a vice resting on the OD of the outer CV joint.

 

It probably wouldn't go in easily because the shaft had a few high spots. It's not at all uncommon to have to dress a shaft in preperation for an interferance fit like that. A thin coating of anti-seize thinned out with a few drops of oil helps immensely in lubricating the fit as well as locating any high spots.

 

It's the small details that make the difference between axles/bearings lasting 100k and lasting 10k. I've owned dozens of EA vehicles and I've replaced a LOT of axles and bearings - but one thing I haven't had to do since I learned the right/wrong way to fit machined parts together is replace one more than once. When I do axles, they STAY done (except when I blow them apart off-road of course).

 

GD

 

Yeah, I kind of thought it would be bad, but they don't need to last 10 or 20k.

 

Jacob

Yeah, I kind of thought it would be bad, but they don't need to last 10 or 20k.

 

LoL - ok. I guess they are cheap enough that it doesn't matter if you are doing them yourself. But still - you couldn't vist the Home-Cheapo and snatch a pipe nipple that would drive on the inner race? I'm pretty sure 1-1/4" would have worked although that's an armchair guess.....

 

You must try harder next time or I will take away gold stars.

 

GD

LoL - ok. I guess they are cheap enough that it doesn't matter if you are doing them yourself. But still - you couldn't vist the Home-Cheapo and snatch a pipe nipple that would drive on the inner race? I'm pretty sure 1-1/4" would have worked although that's an armchair guess.....

 

You must try harder next time or I will take away gold stars.

 

GD

 

Heh, yeah. I got a little carried away last night with the hammer, but the thing has been up on jackstands for 2 weeks. If I can drive it for another 5k after hammering, that's good enough for me. I'll keep the pipe nipple thing in mind for next time, though.

 

Jacob

Fancy tools are for people with too much money and not enough imagination.

GD

 

Well I guess I have no imagination, and I definitly don't have too much money...Oh wait thats because I put the food on the Mac, Snap-on guys table. But in return I can put my food on my table because I can do the job more eficiantly and professionally, and correct the first time out the door.

Well I guess I have no imagination, and I definitly don't have too much money...Oh wait thats because I put the food on the Mac, Snap-on guys table. But in return I can put my food on my table because I can do the job more eficiantly and professionally, and correct the first time out the door.

 

This post is not about the tools needed to be a "professional" mechanic that puts food on the table by getting jobs out the door. This post is about ONE man that needs ONE axle installed into ONE hub. My reply's were carefully tuned to HIS ear, not your's.

 

No one is arguing the utility of a hub-tamer if you have need for one on a near daily basis. I put plenty of clams into the Snap-On truck and I don't regret a cent of it. But I don't do these every day and as such if it takes me a couple hours to make my one one-off tool that does the job for a specific model and saves me hundreds of $..... I have no problem with that either. Plus I'm used to it - with the equipment I am used to working on, there simply is no tools unless you make them. It's really nothing to me to whip out a bearing driver or puller tool. I have dozens of them.

 

GD

This post is about ONE man that needs ONE axle installed into ONE hub. My reply's were carefully tuned to HIS ear, not your's.

 

And it's appreciated. BTW, all you guys missed out on free beer:grin:

 

Jacob

And it's appreciated. BTW, all you guys missed out on free beer:grin:

 

Jacob

Hey, I offered to ship you mine in plenty of time. You never replied.

Hey, I offered to ship you mine in plenty of time. You never replied.

 

Lol. Yeah, I was about to call you, but then I picked up the hammer instead of my phone:)

 

Jacob