silverhelme

I don't know what the second one is but the one you are showing is the fan control. Basically it's a on/off temp sensor that's a ground for the cooling fan wiring.

The best option I've seen is to redrill to 4x114. I have a set and as I remember there used to be a thread on how to do it. If I remember Loyale 2.7 turbo said he did it.

I suggest you listen to GD. I finally had to quit using my Brat as a daily and a toad after 25 years. Parts are getting hard to impossible to get and while I have parts cars and it's ej'd I can't tow a big enough trailer to bring them with me. I love my Brat but it has been relegated tow Saturday dump runs (2 miles round trip). I have several I would love to daily including a turbo coupe, a wagon and a sedan but all are down for lack of parts.

Probably the easiest way to do this is to get a flywheel to temporarily install. Install your belts and transfer the marks to your current flywheel to make it easier next time. You may even find somebody locally to lone you one.

For one thing that's not a Justy. It has the spare tire cutout of an ea81-82 car. The only one remotely resembling a Justy is a ea81 Hatch which would more than likely make that a 1.8 ohv.

Theoretically you can install the complete knuckle from an ea82 with brakes with some research into tie rod ends seals etc. I know the strut, ball joint and a few other things are the same.

NAPA says they still have them available. https://www.napaonline.com/en/search/replacement-parts/brakes/brake-calipers-and-hardware/brake-caliper/201580430

The difference between the cams should not make it run rough. All you might notice is maybe a slight difference in power. I second idosubaru on double check the belt timing and the rocker arms. The cam I sold you I think was out of an '87 carbed.

The easiest thing would be to find a Hitachi manifold, install it and use the weber. I'm sure someone here has one. As far as the air cleaner is concerned it's been done but requires mating the base of the weber filter to the factory base. This thread shows an adapter that might work.

What was the reason for replacing the clutch originally? What you are describing sounds like a stripped front hub. The clutch will work the same 2 or 4wd. One other possibility is are you actually getting it into 2wd or are you hitting the neutral spot because of misadjustment or binding of the linkage?

I don't know about McGuire bearings but front and rear are still available at Rockauto.com. Yes the fronts are the same inner and outer.

I'm sure GD will chime in shortly but the short answer is NO. Unless you know how to build automatics and keep them tuned don't even think about adding hp to a 3at. I know how to and have made mine live behind an ej swap for several years but it's getting tired and parts are getting hard to find so I'm finally going to swap it for a 5 speed. Either get the harness out of an '88 or newer and swap in the newer 4eat or put in a 5 speed for best performance, no harness needed.

I had to do just that on my Brat. Mark your stub and axle to reference reassembly then pull the clamp that holds the outer boot them slide it back. There should be a ring that allows you to remove the bearing from the housing. Disassemble the control arm from the car and slide it off the axle shaft. I still needed to use heat while it was in the press and replace the bearing. As of last spring the bearing and seals were still available.

I'm assuming from your description you are working on the rear of a 2 wheel drive. If it was mine I would weld a new tang and shape it with a file. Ea81 and 82's are the same so that gives you a wider range to search for. I think number 9 or 10 is what you want.

It looks like these are for third Gen DL's, GL's and Loyales. 1985-1994.