WRX2FFU Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 So I got all the trans holes drilled and tapped in the plate, I also got it all cut out to size and sorta cleaned up. Next will be the motor holes and the hole for the starter. Then the two should be together. YAY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 Woah! Your approaching this like a real live fabricater! As apposed to my eyeball it weld it up, hope it fits method. lol. Sweet work so far! Haha, tack it together, it doesn't fit. Grind it apart, weld it slightly off, tack it together, repeat Nothing wrong with that method. hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX2FFU Posted October 16, 2010 Author Share Posted October 16, 2010 ^ I still do things that way but when it comes to making a subaru motor run a chevy trans I had to crunch some numbers. So it's official. The motor and the trans are one unit. I just need to finish up the starter mounting, and turn some dowels for the dowel holes to finish it off. Soon it's gonna find it's way over to he car to start fianlly laying out the frame rails and engine mounts/crossmember/trans mount. "PLATE" BOLTED TO THE TRANS AND THE HUB ON THE TRANS: "PLATE" HUB/FLEXPLATE BOLTED TO THE MOTOR: TOGETHER: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 thats just stupid sexy.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 need to drop that in a svx now......jk good work so far been reading and following for some time. the way you adapted the oil pan, now to fit the starter..that should mean only 6qt oil changes vs the factory 7qt capacity on the eg33. nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX2FFU Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 thats just stupid sexy.......... need to drop that in a svx now......jk good work so far been reading and following for some time. the way you adapted the oil pan, now to fit the starter..that should mean only 6qt oil changes vs the factory 7qt capacity on the eg33. nice. Thanks guys! I did loose about a quart but I figure with an oil cooler and possible remote oil filter I'll gain that oil back. I can't wait to start on the chasiss. Thats where the real fun will be and it wil start to look like something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 Absolutely awesome! any chance you'd be willing to copy/share your plans for that adapter plate/hub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX2FFU Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 Absolutely awesome! any chance you'd be willing to copy/share your plans for that adapter plate/hub? I have thought about that. I might. I want to make sure it works first. I have a ton of hours in this so far. It's gonna be hard for me to just give the info away. I don't want to sound like an elitist rump roast but I am sure you understand. I am just so invested in this, and it's hard. I will most likley not build a unit for someone but the blueprints can be copied. I may/will do a seperate write up on it when I am done. This would include the blueprints in PDF and all of the descriptions. The cool thing about this as well is that it would work for an ej motor as well. The rear of the eg33 and the ej are almost exactly the same. 500 hp sti motor anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 Yea, that's fine. Our project is very much still in the planning phase. So we're not in a hurry. And I think those plans would be worth something. We've been watching the thread about the adapter to go to a toyota 5-speed transmission. But this build would do much better with an automatic! I don't know the GM stuff all that well, but I think this would work with a 700R4, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX2FFU Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 A 700r4 should be very the same, bellhousing wise. The hub distances my be different depending on torque converter/flexplate. I was gonna use one but I am not gonna need OD so I went with te thm350. Plus it's a super easy trans to work on and rebuild on the cheap. Plus it's pretty bulletproof. The biggest issues are the oilpan/ starter clearance. Motor mount location(stock ones won't work). The mounts themselves need to be custom built to fit around the headers as well as a custom cross member. Getting the kickdown cable to work on a subie throttle. If you use the OD trans you'll need a TV cable adapter, and a TCC lockup kit. Just from my babbling here you can see the adapter/hub are only part of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 yep, I'm well aware of many of the issues. I'm putting a 4.3 and 700r4 in my toyota 4runner, so I've done a bunch of research on the 700. Most of that fabrication stuff doesn't worry me, but the bellhousing adapter was something we're a bit uncomfortable with. Anyway, I'll stop hijacking your thread. Love the project, and love where you're going with it. I'll be watching closely, and I might contact you sometime over the winter about buying a copy of those plans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX2FFU Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 ^ No hijack. Just let me know and we'll see what you need. I got the starter mounted and tested today. YES! I also had some time to see what this is gonna look like. I "placed" the motor and trans to see where they set. I need to take out the pitch stop mount ad some of the trans tunnel. I want the motor up about 3-4 more inches.... Me tapping: BOOOring: Kinda cool pic though... Mounted starter: Test: BUUUHEAMOUPH: Almost home: In this pic, you can also see, that is about how wide the wheels will set...(i have a lot to do...) In this side pic, just for reference. The car will set aboout 2 feet higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX2FFU Posted November 8, 2010 Author Share Posted November 8, 2010 I made some room for my creation. New trans tunnel anyone? LOL! Motor mounts are built. I also got my diff, 8.8 ford irs, 3.08 gear ratio for now, 4.56 ring and pinion on the way. So friday I am gonna start on the front frame rails and hopefully get the motor setting on it's own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 ************ing DUH!!!!!those mounts are the goodness .......just like the tranny mounts i made a while back.super simple and damn easy.good call. it's hard not to let your head get away with yourself........verry easy to overthink........ what angle will the tube stays be when you are done?my tranny mounts were 90's.but i need to move them, and am thinking about a compound angle from behind and off to the side.that probably does not make sense , but anyways. cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX2FFU Posted November 10, 2010 Author Share Posted November 10, 2010 (edited) They will be almost parallel I'm guessing. I am shooting for about 3 degrees back angle on my motor/trans. Until I get the chassis rails made I am not 100% sure what the tube sections will be mounted like. The frame rails will be right underneath the motor. It's a tight area with the oil pan, starter, motor mounts and exhaust. Most likley the exhaust will exit thru custom headers running on the outside of the frame by the motor above the top A arm and the tucking under somwhere to get in between the fram rails to go into what ever exhaust config i figure out. But you are right, nice, simple, and strong. I also made some more descions on drivetrain. I will be running a np203/205 doubler twin sticked. 4:1 low with 4:56 gears should be noice! Edited November 27, 2010 by WRX2FFU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX2FFU Posted November 17, 2010 Author Share Posted November 17, 2010 (edited) Some work on the front frame. Also some death metal artistry that will be added throughout. My theme is Godzllia so I figured diamond for reptile like feel. The front death catchers will make diamonds with the rear... All of the metal so far is 1/4 wall so strength and stiffness should be good. I still have tons of gusseting and fishplates on all of the 90 degree planes but it's a start. Just fyi the motor mounts will be right on top of the two long front rails... It will b easier to see once I get more done. Edited November 27, 2010 by WRX2FFU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX2FFU Posted November 22, 2010 Author Share Posted November 22, 2010 (edited) Ok so the motor mounts are solid now. I still need to build the trans mount. Waiting on parts. I also need to add some gussts to the motor mounts which I will later... Ordered som qa1 heims, should be here next week. Decided to get her up so I can work eaiser. I need to have it up to get the lower front cradle area setup. The pics are really close to how high it will set when it's finished(just keep in mind, I am 6'2" ). Since I seem to never be able to use my "lift" money for a lift, I went with the poor mans approach for now. $20 in cinder blocks. So I am also thinking of stepping up the tire size a bit too. Depends on a few things to be determined later. 37's now maybe.... Just a thought Enjoy. Edited November 27, 2010 by WRX2FFU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 Wow! That is huge. I really don't see that much lift being necessary unless you're going up a lot in tire size. With the engine and transmission tucked up in the body like that, you're COG is going to be very high. Drop it down a foot and hack up the body Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX2FFU Posted November 23, 2010 Author Share Posted November 23, 2010 (edited) I think it will be easier to see once it's all setup. The top of the tires will go up over a foot when fully cycled. Those tires are also about 3" shorter due to the wear. It is more at full droop the way it is setting. I might go to 37" tires anyway but... Yet to be determined. The body will be hacked up too. Remember all 4 tires will turn. Once I locate the diffs and cradles It will look better. Also most of my weight will be in and below the frame rails. I have a lot of weight in cradeles, diffs, and xfer case... The width will be about 80" to the outside of the tire so stabilty should be ok... Edited November 23, 2010 by WRX2FFU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigo1966 Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 IFS and IRS? Sorry if you already stated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 What kind of wheeling are you planning on doing? Something that big would just suck on the tight trails up here. I suppose if you're out on sand dunes or something it might work out pretty sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX2FFU Posted November 25, 2010 Author Share Posted November 25, 2010 (edited) IFS and IRS? Sorry if you already stated. Yes, both. 4w steering as well. What kind of wheeling are you planning on doing? Something that big would just suck on the tight trails up here. I suppose if you're out on sand dunes or something it might work out pretty sweet. All kinds around here. I've seen way bigger rigs at most of the OR sites around here. I'll have rear steering and also be able to do front digs so manuverablility should be pretty good. So from my calculations what your seeing above will be almost the bottom travel of the wheel. I will have 31" of wheel travel if I max my cv joints. I am gonna back that down to about 24" for some longevity and less stress on the cv's. So each tire will be able to travel in a total 2 foot. I am thinking of setting my ride height with about 6-8" of up travel and the rest in droop. I still have some calculations and drawings to finish but It' starting to look the way I want it to on paper. Now just to build it all. Here is a good example of what my front end will sorta look like when it's done, and what it can do. Edited November 27, 2010 by WRX2FFU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 So from my calculations what your seeing above will be almost the bottom travel of the wheel. Ahhhh. That's a little different. I was thinking that was going to be your ride height.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigo1966 Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Thats awsome. This is one build that I would like to do some day too. Cant wait to see the finished rig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Those tires tires are huge! Four of those probably costs about the same as a down payment on a house Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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