Meeky Moose Posted February 17, 2004 Share Posted February 17, 2004 will an oil pan from an ea82T fit on a spfi ea82? pretty sure they're the same but wanted to get a confirmation on that.. the oil plug in my wagon stripped off. looks like some jackass used threadlock on it.. so i get to replace the thing.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 i believe the oil pan gaskets match the same between the 2, but the oil pickup is different. but who says you can trim the baffles to fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 you just need a new plug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meeky Moose Posted February 18, 2004 Author Share Posted February 18, 2004 not when the plug won't come out.. the pan is also a white color, looks burned, around the plug like it was heated at some point.. so i don't think that will help either.. the oil pan is leaking anyways so it needs to come off.. thanks MF.. guess i need to get it off and compare to one i have at the shop.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 you haven't tried hard enough! heat, impact wrench, break something loose! or re'drill the plug itself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 Problem is if you twist hard enough on the drain plug I bet the smaller bolts holding the pan to the engine would lose. They say not to overtorque the oil pan bolts cuz you can strip out the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meeky Moose Posted February 19, 2004 Author Share Posted February 19, 2004 ohh i believe i tried hard enough subiemech.. took the vice grips and clamped them down using a pair of channel locks.. the teeth on the vice grips were embedded in the plug.. all it did was chew off another 1/4" of the plug, it wouldn't budge.. gonna get a siphon and siphon the oil out through the dipstick to get it changed.. then when i do the tranny swap i'm gonna do the oil pan, rear main, etc while the trans is out.. will be easier.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkyardgabe Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 ya usually when some meat heads change the oil they forget the gasket and then crank that plug in which make it like its welded on.any of the lubes should be able to suck it dry with their rear diff. evac. systems .that cars had a hard life at the lube guys hand by the sound of it.hope your luck starts to go the other way with it now :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 18" pipe wrench - *something* will give...... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asavage Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Originally posted by Meeky Moose took the vice grips and clamped them down using a pair of channel locks.. the teeth on the vice grips were embedded in the plug.. all it did was chew off another 1/4" of the plug, it wouldn't budge.. There are a couple of ways of dealing with this without taking the pan off (which is not a lot of fun in this chassis). Method 1: Now that you no longer have parallel sides (the vice grips took care of that), you can't get good purchase with anything like a pipe wrench or vise grips again. You can hand-file or use a 4" grinder to restore two or four parallel sides, and try the vice grips again. Method 2: You can center-drill it for a moderate-sized EZ-out (about 5/16" minor dia.). Then use 4" grinder to grind off the entire face of the plug. This is tricky, but I've done it on other rigs. With the face gone, only the threads -- and only the threads -- will be holding it. If the threads are undamaged and unglued, an EZ-out will spin it out easily. Method 3: use wire-feed welder to weld a cheap 17mm box-end wrench to the plug's remains, then use a pipe over the cheap wrench to apply real torque. After you've busted it loose, cut off all but 1" of the wrench. Be certain to be careful positioning the wrench before welding it, so that you have room to swing the pipe (or hammer). Do not worry about the oil pan bolts' holes becoming damaged. Just some fun suggestions. Some people are welders, and some are not -- and the two groups have different ways of approaching problems like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 you can grind off the head and slice throuth the side of the plug threads, hacksaw, chisel, rotary cutting tool, take your pick, and have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjim5551212 Posted February 21, 2004 Share Posted February 21, 2004 This is an interesting post. I have a 88 EA82T that someone has put a piece of aluminum sheet between the bolt and the pan. This car sucks back the oil, so, what is the procedure to remove the pan. There is a number of drops under the pan, but to be honest, I have not checked out the valve covers. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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