Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

EA82 Engine Swap help


  • Please log in to reply
13 replies to this topic

#1 torxxx

torxxx

    I void warranties

  • Members
  • 2,914 posts
  • Fairbanks

Posted 21 February 2004 - 11:18 PM

K I went and looked at my buddies DL Wagon today.. he T-boned someone and smashed the front, but the raid took the dents and it didnt get pushed into the T-belt covers.

I'm planning on getting the car and swappin it with mine. Both are Hitachi carbbed, cept his has PS and mechanical fan. (Both wont be going back on my car)

Since I've never done a EA82 swap, I'm wondering if there is any special tools I'm going to need.

Also Time involved in this project, and any other advice anyone might have.

I posted before about compression testing the motor and no one answered about how many PSI each cylinder should be. 120 PSI?

#2 calebz

calebz

    Andys Coupe killed my cat

  • Administrator
  • 7,547 posts
  • Tacoma

Posted 21 February 2004 - 11:29 PM

Getting a motor out of a front end wrecked EA82 car with mechanical fan can be a pain. When I pulled the motor out of my 88 wagon, I had to cut the core support out of the car to get the radiator out, then take the fan off, then get the engine out.. that took more time than actually pulling the motor.

No special tools needed.. 14mm deep for the motor mount nuts..plenty of masking tape and a sharpie for marking vacuum lines..10,12,14,15 and 17mm sockets and wrenches, and you can take apart most of the car..

You didn't mention the method you were planning on using to lift the engine.. I have done it a couple of ways.. using a cherry picker (engine hoist) is my preferred way(duh).. but I have also done it by having one person on each side of the car grab a head and yank.. cherry picker is easier..

Heres a pic of an EA82T fresh out of the car.. notice in the pic, that on the car, everything north of the bumper has been cut away for ease of removal from a wrecked car :D

http://usmb.net/albu...r_001.sized.jpg

#3 Snowman

Snowman

    Midnight Passenger

  • Members
  • 3,538 posts
  • Haines

Posted 21 February 2004 - 11:29 PM

I think 120 should be okay. It's the difference between the cylinders that you need to worry about.

Having just completed an ea82 swap, here' what I can tell you. The only special tool needed was a clutch alignment tool. If you are leaving the clutch and flywheel on that engine, you don't need it. Just take your time with it, and mark everthing that you disconnect. As for time, I would budget a weekend for it, since this is your first time, and you may run into problems. If everything goes well, you could do it in a matter of hours though.

#4 torxxx

torxxx

    I void warranties

  • Members
  • 2,914 posts
  • Fairbanks

Posted 21 February 2004 - 11:32 PM

well for the smashed front end, I'm going ot put a chain around the bumper/raid front clip and tow out on it to bend it away from the engine
thats should give me enough clearance. I was pulling on the front today and moved it 1/2 inch so that should come easy.

I was going to have a few guys to lift the motor out. What about putting a jack underneath the engine on blocks and hten just jack the engine up until the heads are above the front frame spars?

Or I could get a actelyne torch and just cut our a groove in the front to slide the engine straight forward


As for the vacumn lines, they are all coming off.
its going to be a de-emissioned EA82

And the clutch is supposed to be good on the donor car so I'll prolly put that in to

#5 moosens

moosens

    Psychotic Subathusiast

  • Members
  • 1,202 posts
  • Bridgeport CT

Posted 21 February 2004 - 11:49 PM

Can't remember the compression figure but I think you're right close.Main thing is it should be at least close amongst all cylinders.Can't have one less than 20%(??) of the others....someone else will step in with the exact figures I'm sure.

For the swap-well it could go well with the right tools or helper it could go by in a matter of a few hours to most of the day.All depends on you.Not trying to offend you,we've all had our first time and that first time now seems to have taken forever when you look back.

Lots of swaps go well when you lift the intake but don't detatch any of the hoses or cables *other than* what goes to the valve covers and the metal pipe at the back of the intake,yank the longblock out,and drop the new one in,then re-set the intake.

If you don't like the carb/fuel delivery you have now then swap the whole thing out being carefull to tag the fuel lines and anything that might confuse you.ALWAYS assume you will have to leave the job and not get back untill your memory has faded.Nothing worse than wondering if you screwed up.

Disconnect battery
remove radiator,fans,alternator,any A/C or P/S **(You can just put the P/S pumpaside aswell as the A/C**There's no reasonto disconnect either.The A/C can sit up on the driver's side shock tower,and the P/S pump off to the passenger side.The intake can sit where the spare tire goes.

Now you are looking at plenty of room to work.

Disconnect the exhaust from the heads and from the mount near the tranny.It's ok to let it hang but best to prop it slightly so no stress on the joints,etc.

Remove the nuts (one on each side-14mm) that secure the motor mounts to the crossmember.

If you have an engine crane and want both the engine and tranny out then you can do it in one shot.Keep them together.

Otherwise,remove the 4 nuts securing the tranny to the bellhousing on the engine.You also have the pitching stopper which by now you've probably gotten to.It sits up top and is shaped like a dog bone-sort of....

OK,get your buddy or even smarter,get your hoist or crane or lift,whatever,and pick that engine out.

Things to consider when you have your next engine sitting in front of you and easy to do work on:
Flywheel resurfaced if manual
main seals
oil pan gasket
complete front of engine re-seal(main,cams,oil pump,water pump)
new clutch-if manual
good motor mounts

I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things.The boys will be by to correct me or chip in soon.

Good luck,you can do it!!:headbang:

#6 moosens

moosens

    Psychotic Subathusiast

  • Members
  • 1,202 posts
  • Bridgeport CT

Posted 21 February 2004 - 11:52 PM

Sawzall that mother!! Don't go nuts with torches if you don't have to.

Make it much easier to yank the engine with the rad. support cut out.You'll figure it out,but cut the rad. support near each headlight from top to bottom on a slight angle going towards the center of the car.....you'll see.;)

#7 torxxx

torxxx

    I void warranties

  • Members
  • 2,914 posts
  • Fairbanks

Posted 22 February 2004 - 12:38 AM

thanks for the responses guys.

As for the rebuilding stuff someone mentioned, I wont be doing that. The donor engine is a temp engine while mine gets rebuild.. new lashers, gaskets

#8 viceversa

viceversa

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Members
  • 368 posts
  • Virginia

Posted 22 February 2004 - 03:35 AM

I removed EA82 this summer from a rust bucket.
took me 3 days and I could not have done it without this forum.

Nothing really complex about it, just tedious wrenching. I think I could do it again in 3 hours.

Soak exhaust bolts with PB Blaster. ON mine, they were really rusty and I nearly rounded them off.

I got scared putting it in myself, all these vacuum lines and electric wires but if you do it several times I suppose it is not that hard.

#9 gravelRX

gravelRX

    Driven with both feet.

  • Members
  • 885 posts
  • Roanoke, VA

Posted 22 February 2004 - 08:44 AM

Calebz, just curious, what did you use the 15mm for?

Nitpicking,
Jay

#10 calebz

calebz

    Andys Coupe killed my cat

  • Administrator
  • 7,547 posts
  • Tacoma

Posted 22 February 2004 - 09:55 AM

honestly, I can't remember.. Its in my mobile tool box because I used it for something.. Just don't remember what.. Probably some nut or bolt thats peculiar to my car...Kinda like the 1/2 inch nuts that hold the struts on..Everyone else has 12mm, but All I had was 1/2 inch..

#11 torxxx

torxxx

    I void warranties

  • Members
  • 2,914 posts
  • Fairbanks

Posted 22 February 2004 - 01:11 PM

yup I know what you mean calebz. I have 2 13 mm in my tool box because I had to get new bolts for the oil pan skid plate and thats the only size bolt head I could find that would match the standard metric threads.

No 22 or 21 mm is needed for engine swap?

#12 asavage

asavage

    Eat, Live, Breath Subaru

  • Members
  • 338 posts
  • Port Townsend, Wash. 9836

Posted 22 February 2004 - 01:33 PM

Originally posted by torxxx
No 22 or 21 mm is needed for engine swap?


22mm 6-point socket (or 7/8") and a long 1/2" ratchet is nice for the front crank pulley bolt, so you can rotate the engine to align the torque converter bolts on AT-equipped cars. Also nice for doing timing belts or oil pump reseal.

#13 MilesFox

MilesFox

    Catch this Fox!

  • Members
  • 10,295 posts
  • Madison/Milwaukee, WI

Posted 23 February 2004 - 10:34 AM

take off the fan and radiator to pull the motor

jack up the TRANNY so that the motor mount studs come out of their hole. do tha same for installation

the ENTIRE FRONT CROSSMEMBER< MOTOR< TRANS< SUSPENSION, can be dropped as one unit. but you have to get the car up in the air to drag the whole thing out.

same can be done to install, i installed my crossmember, lower control arms, 5spd trans and ej22 as a built unit into my 87 wagon

i left the struts, axles, and brake lines hang on the car from the strut tower, just disconnected the tie rod and ball joints

if you pull all that, disconnect the parking brake cables from the lever, and let them come out with the frame

#14 torxxx

torxxx

    I void warranties

  • Members
  • 2,914 posts
  • Fairbanks

Posted 24 February 2004 - 12:05 AM

I'm going to have to get a camera to document my first "big" project.

Should be hilarious




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users