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Adapter Plate Question
Posted 07 February 2011 - 07:58 PM
The plate is all I got. My concern is, shouldn't there be some bolts or some kind of off-set fasteners that go with this plate?
The "pairs" of holes at 2 o'clock and 11 o'clock are threaded. Maybe I'm just suppose to simply bolt into those sets of holes?
I have my d/r tranny sitting on my bench, and I even put the plate up to the bell housing, but still couldn't figure it all out. My EJ motor is still in the legacy w/ a dead auto tranny hooked to it.
Posted 07 February 2011 - 08:00 PM
Posted 07 February 2011 - 08:57 PM
Posted 07 February 2011 - 09:05 PM
If I had the ej motor handy, I could probably figure it out easily enough. Mostly, I just want to know if the fasteners are something I may have in the bolt box or, can be bought at the hardware store. (I don't wanna get hung up in the middle of the install).
Sounds like I just need some correct length and pitch bolts. Thanks again.
Posted 07 February 2011 - 09:28 PM
Posted 07 February 2011 - 11:56 PM
Posted 08 February 2011 - 12:15 AM
The top 4 should have bolts, they have to be a pretty precise length to get full engagement but not bottom out. You'll have to drill out the threads on the engine bellhousing so you can bolt the plate to the engine block, and then install like normal.
My MRose adapter plates used fairly standard threads, so the hardware could easily bought at a hardware store. I would assume SJR did the same, but I'm not sure.
I do know a couple guys with unused SJR plates....I could see if they have any more info.
Posted 08 February 2011 - 02:11 AM
Posted 08 February 2011 - 11:40 AM
You'll have to drill out the threads on the engine bellhousing so you can bolt the plate to the engine block, and then install like normal.
He won't need to drill out the threads in his engine. SJR plate uses smaller bolts (5/16) that fit through the M10 threads in the block.
Personally, I don't like using smaller than stock bolts to hold the engine to trans, but that's how some people make their plates. (SJR, and I think Rguyver's aluminum plates?)
Posted 08 February 2011 - 12:30 PM
Posted 16 July 2011 - 09:21 PM
is that totally fabricated? or does it ummm-----tie into the spare tire mount, maybe>?
anyone have pics? i know this is a somewhat dated thread. and i realize that its not specifically about the pitchstopper. but they are at least semi-related.
also, does anyone have SPECIFIC and exact lengths of the studs to the plates?
Posted 17 July 2011 - 08:27 AM
The studs don't need to be any specific length - just measure how thick the bell-housing of the engine or tranny (whichever is applicable for the hole) is at that point and make it about 1.25" to 1.5" longer to account for the thickness of the adaptor plate and enough extra to thread on a washer/nut combo.
Posted 17 July 2011 - 12:01 PM
Posted 17 July 2011 - 04:59 PM
Posted 17 July 2011 - 06:37 PM
You have made your point clear. But it is the *opinion* of myself and probably many of the mods here as well as the members that your method is dangerous to preace to others as they may not utilize the concept correctly or with enough degree of accuracy based on your small, single sentance description to effectively accomplish a mating of EA and EJ components that will not result in damage to one or both.
It is very likely that your poor communication skill and your personal attacks will in fact get your banned (again). Perhaps you can create a post or a web page somewhere that details this concept more fully - the how's and the why's - in order to show that it works and is safe - if it is and if that's possible to do so.
Posted 19 July 2011 - 09:19 PM
The dowel pins are not there to stop the engine and transmission from shifting once it's all put together. The static friction between the surfaces of the bellhousing halfs where they're clamped together by the bolts is what does that. What the dowel pins do is align the crankshaft and the transmission input shaft so they are spinning on the same centerline. If that alignment isn't set by the dowel pins, then the crank bearings and transmission input bearings are running under a side load all the time. They aren't built for that, and the splash lubricated transmission bearings will fail first. While running without dowel pins will work at first, the transmission will soon begin to howl/whirr/growl while being driven and when in neutral with you foot off the clutch.
If you want to build an adapter plate on the cheap, go to a local tech college and talk to the machining department. They're often willing to do small simple projects like that, and punching 10 holes in the right place in a 1/2 plate is easy with a milling machine. I have a printout of the coordinates and sizes of the holes needed from when I did my adapter plate. Take it home and cut out the plate to match the bellhousings and you have your precise adapter plate for cheap.
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