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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Overkill on a CEL question

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32 replies to this topic

#26 heartless


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Posted 30 June 2012 - 07:18 AM

This helped, I didn't know about the LED. I got EGR valve (code 34) with nothing connected, EGR valve and O2 sensor (code 32) with the white memory plugs connected, and 5 with the green test mode connectors. The only place I find 5 is here:


which implies that it's good. It says here:


that a dealership technician can perform dynamic tests. What does that mean?

And can either a bad EGR valve or O2 sensor affect performance? Or are they only emissions related?

O2 will definitely affect performance - depending on how bad it is, the car can become almost undrivable.

#27 Gloyale


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Posted 30 June 2012 - 11:45 AM

My Chilton's is kind of vague on this and I can't find my FSM. How long does it usually take for the light to flash when clearing codes?

plug them toghether.

start and run engine. Drive forward at least 1mph (to test speed sensor)

Keep holding idle over 2k for about 30 secs. til light flashes.

If light comes on, but does not flash (stays lit) you still have a current code that won't clear.

#28 jeffx


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Posted 02 July 2012 - 02:44 PM


#29 Frank T

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Posted 08 July 2013 - 07:48 PM

Green = test mode. tests for current faults

White (or black for MPFI) = Read. reads stored codes. this is the most useful one.

BOTH Green and White toghether = CLEAR mode. Hook up both, run it til the CEL flashes...disconnect. codes cleared.

Leave both disconnected for regular driving.         


This connector info was very useful. It should be added to the "engine electrical", page 2, "Subaru ECU codes for 1983-1988"

#30 BoxerRebellion


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Posted 08 July 2013 - 09:36 PM

If a Subaru doesn't have it's check engine light on... Something's wrong.

#31 imthenutt



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Posted 18 September 2014 - 06:35 PM

No Joy. New OEM purge solenoid, tried to clear multiple ways as posted here and in the manual. Nothing works. (except electrical tape over the light)

Hello there - I know this is a really old post - BUT - I was wondering if you ever got this cleared? I have this issue and I am in California where we cannot use electrical tape due to Big Brother Smog Checks - Thank you

#32 Blusc13



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Posted 20 October 2014 - 09:33 PM

Hey imthenut, 


I just cleared out mine today, it worked great. The critical element is :



BOTH Green and White together = CLEAR mode. Hook up both, run it til the CEL flashes...disconnect. codes cleared.



I had had both connectors connected the entire time i've owned the vehicle. I had to hang out and rev the engine a bit till it flashed, then shut it down and disconnected it. Took quite a while as i was frustrated and employing the guess and check method.


Hooked up a 50 ohm 10 watt resistor into the solenoid. I live right off I-5, so when I went to run it up to the next exit and back I was was surprised by the power increase. Although adjusting my timing and removing my cats may have helped too.


So if i'm not setting off CEL lights with portions of my exhaust jimmy rigged, you should be fine.


PS, Thanks for the super thorough "overkill" thread, for a newbie this was immensely helpfull.

Edited by Blusc13, 20 October 2014 - 09:34 PM.

#33 Craigar


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Posted 29 March 2017 - 05:12 AM

Thank You Gloyale for the info about disconnecting both wires by the firewall - seems so "illogical" that the one with the white connector is a locking connector (and the green isn't) - and my Haynes manual had me taking apart a lot of unnecessary similar connecters next to the fuse box, under the left side of the steering column - and my "white connector" by the firewall was hooked up, which kept the CEL on all the time, (once I put a bulb in- cause someone had REMOVED it!) with both of them disconnected then I was able to get the CEL to stay off (and repeating code 08 = normal).


ECU test And clear connectors By brake reservoir


I was having code 34 (EGR solenoid) and posted my fix here

Edited by Craigar, 29 March 2017 - 05:41 AM.

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