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1984 GL Wagon Fwd Build


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#201 TomRhere

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Posted 24 March 2012 - 04:28 PM

Only things I can think of right at the moment are;
clogged heater core,
shut-off valve not opening.

#202 1982gl4

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Posted 24 March 2012 - 05:19 PM

Only things I can think of right at the moment are;
clogged heater core,
shut-off valve not opening.


That's was my thought as well. I flushed the heater core out 6 years ago when I first got it (just with water, no chemicals or anything) it flowed well then. What is the shut off valve and where is it located, I've never had an issue with one so I've never had to look into it. I'll search around a bit as well.

#203 TomRhere

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Posted 24 March 2012 - 06:21 PM

It's shown in the link below. You may want to bookmark the page for future reference.


http://www.indysworl...heatercore.html

#204 1982gl4

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Posted 24 March 2012 - 06:31 PM

Awesome link! I can move that valve. I see it moving while I turn the heater knobs. Seems like it should be working, but I really have no idea. I'll look at it tomorrow for sure. Maybe try to flush the core out again or something.

*Edit* the more I think about it, the more I think it may be that valve. I can hear a slight gargling when I first start it makes me thing it's stuck open slightly or not at all. I'll have to look into it more, I'm not sure if I can still get a new one or not. I'll have to get an inferred thermometer from work and check temps on the different sections.

Edited by 1982gl4, 24 March 2012 - 06:56 PM.


#205 TomRhere

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Posted 24 March 2012 - 07:18 PM

The gargling/gurgling sound is indicating that you have an air pocket in the heater core. Need to burp that out.

#206 1982gl4

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 07:15 PM

I haven't been working on this like I should be :horse:

My disty came in today so I'm going to put that in tomorrow. Hopefully my timing wont be jumping all over the place! Still haven't worked on the heat. It cooled off again here so I've been using my legacy as they salted the roads again :dead: And my damn beetle has been taking up all of my time as well.

#207 TheLoyale

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 08:43 PM

Summers coming, if you want heat, roll down the window ;)

Still haven't worked on the heat.


But I hear ya on cooling off, christ, it was 70s 80s for a while and now its 30s-40s. Although supposed to be 78 Sunday WTF? Wonder why we're all sick :-p

#208 1982gl4

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 09:00 PM

Summers coming, if you want heat, roll down the window ;)



But I hear ya on cooling off, christ, it was 70s 80s for a while and now its 30s-40s. Although supposed to be 78 Sunday WTF? Wonder why we're all sick :-p


It's not going to get that warm here this weekend. I'm hoping for 50's. This week it's been around 35 for highs. Also been snowing again, which I can't really complain about as we usually still have snow much later than now, but it would be great if it were nice enough to do a bit of work outside. With a non running brat, and a non running beetle, the garage is out of space for any more projects. I'll probably take a ride down to work this weekend and see if I can get some issues sorted out and put the stock front bumper back on.

#209 1982gl4

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Posted 31 March 2012 - 10:56 AM

Looked at this this morning. It was low on coolant when I checked it. Filled it, took it for a brisk drive, and it needs a radiator. One of the spot welds on the top has broken, and I see signs of coolant seeping out of the the bottom. I may take it out of my 82, as it has a new one in it last year. It would save me $150 not like they are hard to swap out either. Air is for sure trapped in the heater core as well I could hear it when I was feeling the lines on the inside of the car. So those are my next steps.

#210 TomRhere

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Posted 01 April 2012 - 05:34 AM

Yeah, the weather is nuts right now.....

Depending on what else I'm doing, I either have the front up on jackstands or ramps when working on the cooling system. Seems to help get all the air out when re-filling. I also leave the cap off until the engine gets fully warmed up.

#211 TheLoyale

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Posted 01 April 2012 - 11:26 AM

+1 on leaving the cap off.

#212 1982gl4

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Posted 01 April 2012 - 03:48 PM

Will do, but it wont be until next weekend. I'm going to swap parts outI spent all day cleaning up the garage instead of working on this. Well worth it! It's snowing again now anyway so I'm driving the legacy back to school this week as they are surely going to salt the roads again :horse: Plus being 30* out I'd like to have heat ;) Next weekend I'll spend a good amount of time on it.

My plans before taking it to Pennsylvania in may:

New waterpump
Radiator
coolant
finish the wood in the hatch area
old front bumper back on
mud flaps
FIX HEAT
Change disty
and maybe get some decals for the lower sections of the doors, and mess with the fuel gauge that's not working.
I may put in a new heater core as well, I'm worried about this one. It smells like coolant when I first turn the "heat" on

Edited by 1982gl4, 01 April 2012 - 03:52 PM.


#213 1982gl4

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 12:03 PM

So I got my beetle running sort of, I can now do more work to this! I got a new water pump, and I'm pulling the radiator out of my 82 so I can drive this one again. I also have a new(used) distributor. All of that will be going in this weekend. I also have an ea81T oil cooler I was thinking of adding.

#214 subynut

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 02:01 PM

I also have an ea81T oil cooler I was thinking of adding.


Does a N/A EA81 get that toasty in the summer? I've had them on my EA82s in the past to help the engine stay a little cooler during the 110* summer heat, but I wouldn't have thought the N/A EA81's needed them. :confused: Unless your running a hotter cam and SPFI. Then, I could see the need..

:popcorn:

#215 Virrdog

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 08:13 PM

Does a N/A EA81 get that toasty in the summer? I've had them on my EA82s in the past to help the engine stay a little cooler during the 110* summer heat, but I wouldn't have thought the N/A EA81's needed them. :confused: Unless your running a hotter cam and SPFI. Then, I could see the need..

:popcorn:


They also act as an oil heater when the coolant temperature is higher than the oil temperature, which happens every morning when you drive it. And getting the oil warmed up faster is much better for your engine.

So there are really no downsides to it, except for maybe a couple more spots for a possible leak :D

#216 subynut

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Posted 12 April 2012 - 02:09 PM

The last EA81T cooler I saw was a oil to air cooler, like an aux tranny cooler. 1982gl4, do you have a pic or two of your oil cooler? We're curious....:popcorn:

#217 1982gl4

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Posted 14 April 2012 - 07:00 PM

I'll take some pics tomorrow while I swap the radiator and other bits.

I would have posted sooner but I was at the New York Autoshow, and I got to sit in a new BRZ :) pretty nice little ride, also my beetle has been taking up all my time :horse: after another day of working I have it running well.

#218 thedoctor

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Posted 14 April 2012 - 08:32 PM

I drive an '83 dl here in Pennsylvania and of course I have already welded new rocker panels on her. These were derived from 4 Astro van rocker panels. Worked very well. My point is that this rust seen on your project car seems very familiar to me. I am surprised such is the case with a California car.

Perhaps I should abandon my dream of finding a rust free older generation soobie. Help... I'm sinking into a depression.

#219 1982gl4

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Posted 14 April 2012 - 08:40 PM

This is a California car that had sat in VT for the last eight years or so and had been driven at least a few winters up here, so the salt got to it. Vt has a way of rusting cars while they sit or drive :(

#220 1982gl4

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Posted 15 April 2012 - 04:48 PM

Here are pics of the oil cooler. It has an added section of the oil pump that screws on, and the filter screws on to that.
Posted Image

And here is the section that bolts behind the bumper.
Posted Image


Time for a well needed update, I've spend most of today working on this, and so far I have swapped out the distributor, radiator, cooling fans, new water pump, alternator, and I have added a much needed radiator over flow tank. I flushed the heater core, and didn't get much of anything out of it. It seemed to flow fine. We will see if it has heat now, it seemed to have some while I was burping the coolant system.

Pics!

Oh this made a guest appearance today.
Posted Image

All the new bits in the engine bay.
Posted Image

Toyota corolla overflow tank.
Posted Image

Posted Image

And a couple of fun pics
Posted Image

Posted Image

#221 1982gl4

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Posted 15 April 2012 - 08:15 PM

This car :horse:

Got to school tonight, all went well on the trip. Gauges stayed where they should have, except the voltmeter, and fuel gauge which have had issues for a while. I get out, and fiddle with the carb, as the idle was a bit low. Get back in to check it, and the oil pressure is reading zero, and the temp gauge is creeping up. I think I'm having issues with the ground on the radiator, causing the fan to not work, or the other connections. But as far as oil pressure goes I have no idea :confused: it runs and sounds fine, no tell tail signs as far as knocking or other noises. As soon as it is revved up the gauge comes back up as it should. I'll look it over tomorrow when it's not dark out. Good thing I have a couple of ea81's still kicking around....

#222 Virrdog

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Posted 15 April 2012 - 09:40 PM

Here are pics of the oil cooler. It has an added section of the oil pump that screws on, and the filter screws on to that.

And here is the section that bolts behind the bumper.


Hmm, if there is nothing that sandwiches it in coolant flow... I would leave it off. You would really need a thermostat of some sort that keeps the oil out of that radiator until it needs it. And you should rarely if ever need it unless you are using maximum horsepower or torque for long periods of time. Pulling a trailer up a mountain, road course race track...

#223 subynut

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Posted 15 April 2012 - 09:47 PM

Or live in the desert where the air temps are in the 90-115* range. I would use it, if it has an internal thermostat.

#224 TomRhere

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Posted 16 April 2012 - 03:29 AM

Oil pressure reading at or near "0", warm engine idle, is normal for the stock gauge setup. Even says that in the Owners Manual.
A mechanical gauge would give you a more proper reading.

Check the connectors for the sending unit on the gas tank. Corrosion has been my issue with those.

All 5 of the BRATs I've had here varied where the fan would come on in relation to temp gauge reading. Again, stock gauges aren't all that acurate.
The White '86 never went over the 1/2 mark, while the '85 runs at or just above the 1/2 mark. Both had all new cooling system parts installed.

#225 1982gl4

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Posted 16 April 2012 - 06:34 AM

Oil pressure reading at or near "0", warm engine idle, is normal for the stock gauge setup. Even says that in the Owners Manual.
A mechanical gauge would give you a more proper reading.

Check the connectors for the sending unit on the gas tank. Corrosion has been my issue with those.

All 5 of the BRATs I've had here varied where the fan would come on in relation to temp gauge reading. Again, stock gauges aren't all that acurate.
The White '86 never went over the 1/2 mark, while the '85 runs at or just above the 1/2 mark. Both had all new cooling system parts installed.


Thanks for the info, makes me feel a bit better :o
I went and started it later last night, and the oil pressure was reading where it should have been again. I'm going to mess with the connections for the fan today, and make sure it comes on. I was going to add a ground to the fuel sending unit and see if it worked again. Hopefully I'll find time to do that this weekend along with a few other things.




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