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rear brake cylinder 2002 forester
Posted 18 July 2012 - 11:51 AM
Getting home, my OBD reader worked just fine, no codes.
The rear cylinders look good, the only fluid I can find is on the wheel studs.
Are there kits out there?
What years can the other cars work? 99-02 forester?, any legacy parts work?
Do you find these can go out, or did these guys fib?
Posted 18 July 2012 - 01:20 PM
i think you need to verify what is wrong first.
any OBD scanner should work fine. many auto parts stores do it for free as well.
clarify what is wrong with the brakes..."brake cylinder"...what do they mean by that?
Posted 19 July 2012 - 03:58 PM
I guess I don't have much questions now. I was feeling like ranting since I thought the shop was fibbing. I now found out some prices and methods.
The shop inspected and said my rear brake cylinders were leaking. The inside of the drum/springs all look dry. Only the wheels studs had clear brake fluid on them. I think they needed more work and put the fluid on the studs. The hub had a little fluid on the outside ring from centrifugal force. No fluid on anywhere else.
The driver side ball joint did have some play but the passenger is solid. I plan to replace the ball joint. I saw some direction on here and plan to let rust eater work for a couple of days.
I guess I can take back the car and say the brakes aren't leaking and leave it at that. My mechanic friend that works a suby dealer wondered if I will still have to replace the brake cylinder if they say so.
I update when I get back to the shop soon.
Posted 19 July 2012 - 04:59 PM
Replace ball joints in pairs, as if one is bad the other will not be too far behind.
Are you doing this work yourself or is a shop?
Posted 21 July 2012 - 12:11 AM
Posted 21 July 2012 - 09:40 AM
Posted 21 July 2012 - 10:16 AM
Posted 02 August 2012 - 07:10 PM
My friendly Firestone wanted $400 to put in the ball joints
I got my replaced but it took heat, pb blaster and more heat.
Took major heat and some impact/attitude to get out my first pinch bolt. I put in small hole on the back of the bolt and that might have helped too. I got excited and hit the next one with two much attitude and the head twisted off. Drilling it out enough for a good extractor worked...only with major heat again. eventually the top unthreaded part broke. I then work on the back and got it to thread out with the extractor backwards.
Taking the linkage for the anti sway off the control arm helped removal and installation of the new ball joint.
Now lets see if I get my inspection with new ball joints and the rear cylinders that didnt leak now or before.
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